New owner with some question!

"cure completely" you mean i let it dry well?
No, I mean cure completely. Curing goes beyond drying; it allows the chemical reactions in the foam to complete and the fumes & gasses to off-gas. The foam can be dry to the touch and still not fully cured.
This is why the directions should be followed exactly, and to be sure, I would double the recommended curing time—there are a lot of variables and opportunities for error with this stuff. I used it for several years in the workplace, which is why I wouldn't use it for this application.

curing vs. drying (Read several of the articles)
 
Hi I have posted a thread on this . If you could look at it and give me your opinion it would be much appreciated thanks
You're going to have to do better than that; I don't easily find it among your postings.
You can find everything I've had to say about it by searching for urethane posted by me.
 
No, I mean cure completely. Curing goes beyond drying; it allows the chemical reactions in the foam to complete and the fumes & gasses to off-gas. The foam can be dry to the touch and still not fully cured.
This is why the directions should be followed exactly, and to be sure, I would double the recommended curing time—there are a lot of variables and opportunities for error with this stuff. I used it for several years in the workplace, which is why I wouldn't use it for this application.

curing vs. drying (Read several of the articles)
i found this.i think its ok with cure time!

Spray Foam – The Curing Process And The Three E’s


If you really want to know how long spray foam takes to cure, the answer is a couple hours.

Spray foam will be tack-free within 20-30 seconds and it’ll rise to completion to where you can walk on it within a couple of minutes.

Spray foam also has an off-gassing period of a couple hours until it’s 100% cured.

Now that we got curing times out of the way, let’s first begin on how spray foam is laid down.
 
In my opinion more like 24 hrs . Did you watch the videos in the link a sent as they will give you a better understanding
 
This sides with red
 

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It's your enclosure. If it were mine, I would seal the entire thing—inside & out—with urethane sealer.
I've done this before; I follow the directions between coats, then after the final coat, give it a week or two before putting any animals in it. (Basically, I stick my head in it and sniff. If I can still smell the sealer, it's not done off-gassing.)

After that, I would probably make some water-impervious inserts out of sheet PVC or similar—or just silicone the insides. Someone else here does that with their enclosures—can't remember who. You can still apply coco fiber, cork, etc. but no need for messing with UF.
 
urethane sealer ???? hmm didnt notice that! that was an awesome idea!!!
1) is it waterproof?
2) it "stuck" on wood?
 
urethane sealer ???? hmm didnt notice that! that was an awesome idea!!!
1) is it waterproof?
2) it "stuck" on wood?
It's what people use to finish wood now instead of lacquer, largely because some varieties clean up with water, but are ostensibly somewhat water-resistant when cured (and you use enough coats).
What is urethane sealer?

For the best water-resistance, oil-based are recommended—not water-based. Also, as I mentioned, if you really want to keep the water out, I'd overcoat with silicone or an insert.
 
It's what people use to finish wood now instead of lacquer, largely because some varieties clean up with water, but are ostensibly somewhat water-resistant when cured (and you use enough coats).
What is urethane sealer?

For the best water-resistance, oil-based are recommended—not water-based. Also, as I mentioned, if you really want to keep the water out, I'd overcoat with silicone or an insert.
the simple silicone like this? https://www.amazon.co.uk/2079356-Anti-Mould-Silicone-Bathroom-Cartridge/dp/B01G3OCFVI
and it will be fine?
 
NO. The preferred for reptile enclosures is CLEAR GE Silicone #1 which I don't find on that UK Amazon site. The closest I see there is https://www.amazon.co.uk/Aqua-Mate-...E+silicone+caulk&qid=1606152748&s=diy&sr=1-19
but I'm not familiar with the product.

The GE #1 stinks like anything, but that helps you tell when it's cured—when the stink is gone!
The hardest part is probably applying either product evenly—it's sticky stuff. I've not had reason to do that, so I can't help there.

If you go through the enclosure picture threads, you may be able to find the person that uses this technique—IDK.
 
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