things1an2
New Member
Im new to chameleons.. i have 2 Senegal Chameleons.. An i Know very little about them.. i need a little or alot of help.... if anyone can help me please!!
New an in need of Help
- Thread starter things1an2
- Start date
tons of information on this site...just use the search feature.
you really should have done the research before you brought them home, but now that you have them....here are some generals (i have a panther so I don't know species specific, but this should get you started for now):
Make sure you have all the following:
-UVB light (reptisun 5.0 TUBE lights are recommended, NOT the coil ones)
-Basking bulb (standard incandescent from Home Depot works)
-DIGITAL thermometer (the point and shoot type are the best); Analog therms/stickons do NOT work.
-Dripper
-SCREEN CAGE....they should NOT be kept in glass
-low 70s on the cool side, to low-mid 80s under the basking light
-MIST water 2-4x a day. Chams drink dripping water/on leaves. Do *NOT* put a water dish. They don't recognize standing water and can drown.
-Supplementation: Calcium withOUT d3, calcium WITH d3, and multivitamin (3 different supplements)
thats the basics...the temps are more geared for my panther so I don't know about the senegal but I'm sure someone can chime in on that.
also, supplementation schedule (again, this is for my panther):
-calcium daily
-cal+d3 twice a month
-multivit twice a month
basically i do calcium only everyday and every other sunday instead i use alternating multivit/calc+d3
you really should have done the research before you brought them home, but now that you have them....here are some generals (i have a panther so I don't know species specific, but this should get you started for now):
Make sure you have all the following:
-UVB light (reptisun 5.0 TUBE lights are recommended, NOT the coil ones)
-Basking bulb (standard incandescent from Home Depot works)
-DIGITAL thermometer (the point and shoot type are the best); Analog therms/stickons do NOT work.
-Dripper
-SCREEN CAGE....they should NOT be kept in glass
-low 70s on the cool side, to low-mid 80s under the basking light
-MIST water 2-4x a day. Chams drink dripping water/on leaves. Do *NOT* put a water dish. They don't recognize standing water and can drown.
-Supplementation: Calcium withOUT d3, calcium WITH d3, and multivitamin (3 different supplements)
thats the basics...the temps are more geared for my panther so I don't know about the senegal but I'm sure someone can chime in on that.
also, supplementation schedule (again, this is for my panther):
-calcium daily
-cal+d3 twice a month
-multivit twice a month
basically i do calcium only everyday and every other sunday instead i use alternating multivit/calc+d3
Welcome to the forum and the world of chameleons!
Although not the normal chameleon for someone to own as their first chameleon, they are IMHO interesting and under rated. How old are they? Male or female?
I would recommend keeping them in separate cages. The cage can be screen or glass or a combination of both depending on your situation (climate, air conditioning or not). You will also need branches of an appropriate size for the chameleons' feet to grip. Some greenery will give them cover. I recommend real plants...non-toxic, well-washed, both sides of the leaves. No substrate is recommended since many of the substrates can lead to impactions. IMHO I would also cover the soil in the plant pots with rocks that are too big to be ingested by the chameleons.
Senegals are water hounds...so its important that you mist them daily and run a dripper until they drink each day IMHO.
You will need a UVB light (most often recommended...long linear fluorescent Rerpi-Sun 5.0) and can use an incandescent household light in a dome hood to provide a basking spot in the mid 80's.
Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption.
Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.
A wide variety of insects that have been well fed and gutloaded should be fed to it. At that size you only need to feed it every two or three days. Feed it enough that it doesn't get fat (and, of course, doesn't get thin either).
Since many of the feeder insects we use in captivity have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects just before you feed them to the chameleon at most feedings with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it. (I use Rep-cal phosphorus-free calcium). Not sure how to tell you to dust WC insects if that is what you will be doing.
If you also dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it. (I use Rep-cal phos.-free calcium/D3).
Dusting twice a month as well with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while. (I use herptivite which has beta carotene.)
Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.)
Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.
Water can be provided by misting the cage at least once a day and by running a dripper.
Here are some good sites for you to read...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200605020...Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200406080...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://web.archive.org/web/200601140...ww.adcham.com/
If you can't access the sites above that have the word "archive" in you can do it through the WayBackMachine.
Although not the normal chameleon for someone to own as their first chameleon, they are IMHO interesting and under rated. How old are they? Male or female?
I would recommend keeping them in separate cages. The cage can be screen or glass or a combination of both depending on your situation (climate, air conditioning or not). You will also need branches of an appropriate size for the chameleons' feet to grip. Some greenery will give them cover. I recommend real plants...non-toxic, well-washed, both sides of the leaves. No substrate is recommended since many of the substrates can lead to impactions. IMHO I would also cover the soil in the plant pots with rocks that are too big to be ingested by the chameleons.
Senegals are water hounds...so its important that you mist them daily and run a dripper until they drink each day IMHO.
You will need a UVB light (most often recommended...long linear fluorescent Rerpi-Sun 5.0) and can use an incandescent household light in a dome hood to provide a basking spot in the mid 80's.
Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption.
Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.
A wide variety of insects that have been well fed and gutloaded should be fed to it. At that size you only need to feed it every two or three days. Feed it enough that it doesn't get fat (and, of course, doesn't get thin either).
Since many of the feeder insects we use in captivity have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects just before you feed them to the chameleon at most feedings with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it. (I use Rep-cal phosphorus-free calcium). Not sure how to tell you to dust WC insects if that is what you will be doing.
If you also dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it. (I use Rep-cal phos.-free calcium/D3).
Dusting twice a month as well with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while. (I use herptivite which has beta carotene.)
Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.)
Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.
Water can be provided by misting the cage at least once a day and by running a dripper.
Here are some good sites for you to read...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200605020...Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200406080...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://web.archive.org/web/200601140...ww.adcham.com/
If you can't access the sites above that have the word "archive" in you can do it through the WayBackMachine.
Fearaffect
Avid Member
Also, since they are WC....unless CBB(and where did u get if so..lol), get yourself some RepTaid from the Gesangs(Chameleons North West).
Use this to help rid them of parasites and reduce stress.
Use this to help rid them of parasites and reduce stress.
things1an2
New Member
I first got them from a guy who was selling them at a Cultural festival wee i live. the i originly bought 1 because we dont have pet stores were i live with reptiles. but after a while no one bought the other an decided i would get them both.
One is tan an the other green..i have them in the same enclosure but seperated by a barier. each with equal things to climb on an hide in foliage and food. The only prblem is i cant tell how old they are or there gender.. I have searched for help on how to tell but nothing seems t be helping
.
The green one seems to be stressed wen i take it out it turns its pretty green but wen its back in the enclosure it turns a dark brown an black.. an seems to be digging.. wont stand on its log anymore.. just likes the grass..an doesnt seem to be eating
my tan one seems perfectly content an happy.. i have the lights for them.. i feed them fresh insects an a spray system.. i think the only thing i dont have yet is the proper vitamins but im gettin the in a few days.
These little guys are so cute an sweet. an i would hate for something to happen..
I know i shuld of done the research first but this was the only chance i was going to be able to get them an culdnt pass them up..
One is tan an the other green..i have them in the same enclosure but seperated by a barier. each with equal things to climb on an hide in foliage and food. The only prblem is i cant tell how old they are or there gender.. I have searched for help on how to tell but nothing seems t be helping
. The green one seems to be stressed wen i take it out it turns its pretty green but wen its back in the enclosure it turns a dark brown an black.. an seems to be digging.. wont stand on its log anymore.. just likes the grass..an doesnt seem to be eating
my tan one seems perfectly content an happy.. i have the lights for them.. i feed them fresh insects an a spray system.. i think the only thing i dont have yet is the proper vitamins but im gettin the in a few days.
These little guys are so cute an sweet. an i would hate for something to happen..
I know i shuld of done the research first but this was the only chance i was going to be able to get them an culdnt pass them up..
I'm not very experienced with senegals but...
if she is digging, it might be that she is gravid? I would recommend giving her a small bin with sand in it. You don't want to stress her out and cause her to become eggbound (this is when she needs to lay an egg, but can't so it is "stuck" in her).
they can and do get eggs without necessarily mating.
If you fill this form out as well as supply some pictures, I'm pretty sure the pros can help you with the more specifics. Here is the form:
Chameleon Info:
Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.
Cage Info:
Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
Location - Where are you geographically located?
if she is digging, it might be that she is gravid? I would recommend giving her a small bin with sand in it. You don't want to stress her out and cause her to become eggbound (this is when she needs to lay an egg, but can't so it is "stuck" in her).
they can and do get eggs without necessarily mating.
If you fill this form out as well as supply some pictures, I'm pretty sure the pros can help you with the more specifics. Here is the form:
Chameleon Info:
Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.
Cage Info:
Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
Location - Where are you geographically located?
things1an2
New Member
seanUTD
New Member
I was going to say the same but I'm not as familiar with Senegals... If she is digging due to being gravid she DEFINITELY looks skinny... At least from that particular image...
EDIT: I didn't see that all three were her... Again I'm not familiar with Senegals but I don't think she is gravid... And I'm a little more tilted in the direction of under weight.. But maybe some seniors will chime in /:
things1an2
New Member
the only problem is she wont eat an i dont know if i should force feed her or something...
an i dont know if i should force feed her or something...
seanUTD
New Member
Just try different methods... If she is gravid she may have stopped eating... Place an egg laying bin in there so she can dig and I would leave her alone if she goes for the bin and begins digging... I'm by no means an expert and before doing anything I would wait for a more expert opinion...
Is it digging a hole or just digging?
It looks like a male to me. Gravid females usually have dots in the pattern.
Here's an article for you...
http://www.chameleonnews.com/08FebFrancis.html
It looks like a male to me. Gravid females usually have dots in the pattern.
Here's an article for you...
http://www.chameleonnews.com/08FebFrancis.html
things1an2
New Member
it was just digging... like burrowing its self in the dirt.. the picture were its black is a side view from the tank... burrowing its self in the dirt.. thats wen i got worried.. i seperated them and then looked for what was causing the behavior..
i still cant tell wat gender.. the person i bought them from didnt tell me or even how old they were just that htey were young.. she still hadnt eatn so i forced her a few insects..
i still cant tell wat gender.. the person i bought them from didnt tell me or even how old they were just that htey were young.. she still hadnt eatn so i forced her a few insects..
