My chameleons eyeballs are red D:

F

FrancoiseTheGreat

New Member
I just brought my male veiled chameleon back from my friend's house where he was staying for the summer. He is about 4-5 months old and eats healthy portions of food. He stays in a 16"x16"x20" enclosure with a 75 watt basking light and 60 watt UVA light. This morning I turned on the lights and misted his cage and he crawled out from behind some leaves and blinked. When he blinked and his eyes opened up again, they were blood red. They stayed that way for a second and went back to normal. Then he did it again and I got really worried. Does anybody know what this could be?
 
i'm not sure but i would take it to the vet ....and post pics of your cham here....so we may see how he looks,

Also i think you should fill the "help me" form...
 
You have him in too small of a cage and with a 75 watt probably too hot. What kind of a UVB is a 60 watt? Not sure that any of this would cause the red eyes but it needs to be corrected.
 
Panic.

Did his eye bulge out or look odd before or during the time that you saw the red? If so, then that is completely normal; it's just your chameleon cleaning his eye and they tend to do this more when you are misting.
 
Chameleon Info:

* Your Chameleon - Male veiled chameleon, about 5 months old, have had him for 4 months.
* Handling - Less than once a month.
* Feeding - Feeding him 6 large crickets around noon and I put some mealworms in for him to eat freely. The crickets are fed Fluker's Orange Cube Complete Cricket Diet (water and food.)
* Supplements - Dust them 3 times a week with Fluker's calcium with vitamin D3.
* Watering - I use a Mist'r Lizard to mist his cage 5+ times per day, about 10-20 seconds a session so the substrate doesn't become saturated. I have only seen him drink once because he is quite shy.
* Fecal Description - Regular, healthy stools. Never been tested for parasites.
* History - When I bought him, he looked a bit skinny, but he has a hearty appetite and looks fine now.


Cage Info:

* Cage Type - Screen enclosure Reptibreeze size small (16"x16"x20".)
* Lighting - Sun-glo bulbs. Basking light is 75w and UVA light is 60w. I turn them on around 8 AM and turn them off around 10 PM.
* Temperature - Temp. is around 85 degrees int he day, 75 degrees at night, not sure about the temperature range.
* Humidity - Humidity ranges from 50% to 65% and is being maintained by frequent misting. I use a hygrometer. How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
* Plants - Using plastic plants, a piece of driftwood, lots of fake vines, and loose coconut fiber substrate.
* Placement - The cage is located in a partially underground bedroom on a 2 1/2' table. It is underneath a heater. It is not in a high traffic area, although I do walk in and out of the room often. The top of the cage is about 5' from the ground.
* Location - Located in southern California.
 
Chameleon Info:

* Your Chameleon - Male veiled chameleon, about 5 months old, have had him for 4 months.
* Handling - Less than once a month.
* Feeding - Feeding him 6 large crickets around noon and I put some mealworms in for him to eat freely. The crickets are fed Fluker's Orange Cube Complete Cricket Diet (water and food.)
* Supplements - Dust them 3 times a week with Fluker's calcium with vitamin D3.
* Watering - I use a Mist'r Lizard to mist his cage 5+ times per day, about 10-20 seconds a session so the substrate doesn't become saturated. I have only seen him drink once because he is quite shy.
* Fecal Description - Regular, healthy stools. Never been tested for parasites.
* History - When I bought him, he looked a bit skinny, but he has a hearty appetite and looks fine now.


Cage Info:

* Cage Type - Screen enclosure Reptibreeze size small (16"x16"x20".)
* Lighting - Sun-glo bulbs. Basking light is 75w and UVA light is 60w. I turn them on around 8 AM and turn them off around 10 PM.
* Temperature - Temp. is around 85 degrees int he day, 75 degrees at night, not sure about the temperature range.
* Humidity - Humidity ranges from 50% to 65% and is being maintained by frequent misting. I use a hygrometer. How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
* Plants - Using plastic plants, a piece of driftwood, lots of fake vines, and loose coconut fiber substrate.
* Placement - The cage is located in a partially underground bedroom on a 2 1/2' table. It is underneath a heater. It is not in a high traffic area, although I do walk in and out of the room often. The top of the cage is about 5' from the ground.
* Location - Located in southern California.
 
get a bigger cage

get repti-sun LINEAR TUBE & FIXTURE

REMOVE SUBSTRATE FROM FLOOR (COOCNUT FIBERS)

AND RECOMMENDED TO GET LIVE PLANTS.....

AS FOR THE EYES...SORRY I DONT KNOW:confused::(
 
Also replace mealworms with superworms....there is a difference cuz the mealworms can make your cham impacted....while superworms wont(less shell and little more meat inside):)

plus give your cham different feederr insects to eat if possible give friuts and veggies....by the way he looks pretty good judging by the pics:)
 
Ace said:
get a bigger cage

get repti-sun LINEAR TUBE & FIXTURE

REMOVE SUBSTRATE FROM FLOOR (COOCNUT FIBERS)

AND RECOMMENDED TO GET LIVE PLANTS.....

AS FOR THE EYES...SORRY I DONT KNOW:confused::(
Click to expand...

As of right now I don't really have the money for a large cage and linear lighting fixtures, but I don't see why the substrate needs to be removed. I used to have live plants, but it became a hassle to have to replace them every other day.
 
When your cham shoots its tounge out at a bug on the floor, the substrate can go with the bug and possibily choke your cham, again cause impaction, and maybe produce bacteria from the moisture from misting and the humidity and then may get your cham sick.............better be safe then sorry so you wont pay a large vet bill later;)


and for the money issue...hopefully in the meantime you can give your cham some sun from outside or near a window where its sunny....look at craigslist or on the forums at classifieds to find any cheap cages and lights......good luck:d
 
FrancoiseTheGreat said:
As of right now I don't really have the money for a large cage and linear lighting fixtures, but I don't see why the substrate needs to be removed. I used to have live plants, but it became a hassle to have to replace them every other day.
Click to expand...
Make due with what you have. If you can't give the chameleon what it needs, give it to someone else who can.

The substrate needs to be removed, if you had done your research you'd know that... it is a risk for impaction etc.

If you had to replace your live plants every other day... you were probably stressing out your chameleon. Try a pothos. Those are almost impossible to kill...
 
Syn...you may come out a little blunt but you are right:)

i agree with Syn on this...though i may have place it in a "friendly/nicer" manner..IMO:D
 
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