mating question
- Thread starter Ryan123
- Start date
laurie
Retired Moderator
Ryan I will try to spell out what every one is trying to tell you.
#1 for about 10 days after laying give her extra food that is well dusted with calicum. Extra feeders equals about 4 or 5 a day, them take that dowm to 5 crickets every other day
#2 that girl should not be bred for about 4 months. If you breed her to soon you will lose her. Period, you will have a dead cham. After a few months follow the guideline to show the male to her and go when she shows recprive colors.
#3 if you don't over feed she will most likely bounce back healthy and not lay a monster clutch that can kill her
This reflects my feelings and expierence, nothing more.
To you guys with the comments about "seniors", I know people on here who are seniors and I feel don't know a lot. I know people who are not yet seniors and know a way lot of good info. I am a senior and hope to learn form this forum all time. Just wait, after a few rep points or a year you to will be a senior.
#1 for about 10 days after laying give her extra food that is well dusted with calicum. Extra feeders equals about 4 or 5 a day, them take that dowm to 5 crickets every other day
#2 that girl should not be bred for about 4 months. If you breed her to soon you will lose her. Period, you will have a dead cham. After a few months follow the guideline to show the male to her and go when she shows recprive colors.
#3 if you don't over feed she will most likely bounce back healthy and not lay a monster clutch that can kill her
This reflects my feelings and expierence, nothing more.
To you guys with the comments about "seniors", I know people on here who are seniors and I feel don't know a lot. I know people who are not yet seniors and know a way lot of good info. I am a senior and hope to learn form this forum all time. Just wait, after a few rep points or a year you to will be a senior.
Ryan123 said..."so introduce her every couple of day to him and if she darkens and gapes then seperate them"...I would just hold her outside of his cage so they can see each other and if she reacts by gaping, darkening her colors, etc. put her back in her own cage.
You said..."i see poop but its not that big whats that mean????"...could it be that she wasn't eating much?
You said she wont eat right away and the crickets loose the vitamin dust...this could affect her if it goes on for very long...and IMHO she should have been hungry right after laying the eggs. Hopefully she will be okay.
You said..."i see poop but its not that big whats that mean????"...could it be that she wasn't eating much?
You said she wont eat right away and the crickets loose the vitamin dust...this could affect her if it goes on for very long...and IMHO she should have been hungry right after laying the eggs. Hopefully she will be okay.
Ryan123
New Member
okay i was really thinking about this she feels super strong but i havent seen her eat usually she eats from my hands and hasnt a month before she laied and since now its odd she wont eat supers thats her favorite and even a horn worm at that she has never eaten one but my other panther loves them and most chams do she is curious but doesnt eat
tkilgour
Member
Ryan consider how big the worms are, if they are huge that could have something to do with it. Hornworms grow quick, 1 nice sized worm could fill a chameleon up for a while and make them not eat several days. Some of my panther chams go nuts when they see superworms also, and when they eat 4 large sized superworms they will skip a couple days too. I limit supers to just a snack due to impaction and fat content. However, after a female just lays eggs, supers covered w/ calcium work great for me because my chams love them and I can ensure they get the valuable calcium. Small hornworms and silkworms are great to feed as a staple food. I try to limit my girls to one clutch a year. I have noticed by feeding less and keeping temps slightly lower, I can cut back on infertile clutches. Hope this helps you, good luck.
warpdrive
Avid Member
hi Ryan,
please understand that I am no expert but I have done a ton of reasurch and feel I have at least a little bit of understanding on the subject.
befor I give my 2 cents, I want to say that I could not agree more with what Laurie and tkilgore have told you (amonst others as well)...
with that said, here are my thoughts.
1) before you even think about breeding that female, it is your resposability to make sure she is as heathy as posable.
the health and well being of the femle will greatly weigh on the outcome of many things including how heathy the eggs will be.
an unheathy or recooperating female will lay unheathy eggs that may have many problems like a reduced yoke sack and weak babys.
any babys that do hatch and live will still have poor heath when they are adults.
any females that do survive and grow to adulthood will still be in poor health, or lay poor quality eggs regardless of how good her care has been.
this female, even in her best of health, will lay eggs that have smaller yoke sacks and/or poor egg shells.
her babys will never be as strong as babys that came from a strong gradmother.
in other words, starting off with a weak breeder will have dire consiquences in the future...it all starts with what you are doing now, and never ends down the road.
2) STOP THINKING OF BREEDING HER FOR NOW.
like laurie said, over feeding her and/or mating her could kill her.
nuff said.
3) as long as you know she is eating you are OK.
so what that she doesn't like or want supers right now...
try feeding her other things like well gut loaded crickets and roaches.
feed her every other day after the first two weeks have past since her laying.
only small amounts should be used...like 4 or 5 crickets.
dust every other feeding with pure calicium to help her recover from all her stress and she will be fine in another few weeks.
4) give her time to get healthy again.
wait at least 5 months so she can be strong and grow heathy eggs for you before mating her.
she needs to be realy strong before you even think of her having babys.
5) if you are realy intent on breeding her, please do alot of reading before trying this at home.
no joke.
you are in for a lot of work and you need to learn what needs to be done.
the forum members here make it sound easy, but once the babys start hatching, you are in for alot of work and need to know what has to be done.
not only that but you need to be prepared for the babys well before they hatch.
you can not wait untill the last minute to have food ready for them, or cages/tanks for them.
you must be prepared in advance and know what needs to be done.
6) keep asking questions.
even after you read everything on the web, and have all the things you need in advance, keep asking questions from forum members here.
good luck,
Harry
please understand that I am no expert but I have done a ton of reasurch and feel I have at least a little bit of understanding on the subject.
befor I give my 2 cents, I want to say that I could not agree more with what Laurie and tkilgore have told you (amonst others as well)...
with that said, here are my thoughts.
1) before you even think about breeding that female, it is your resposability to make sure she is as heathy as posable.
the health and well being of the femle will greatly weigh on the outcome of many things including how heathy the eggs will be.
an unheathy or recooperating female will lay unheathy eggs that may have many problems like a reduced yoke sack and weak babys.
any babys that do hatch and live will still have poor heath when they are adults.
any females that do survive and grow to adulthood will still be in poor health, or lay poor quality eggs regardless of how good her care has been.
this female, even in her best of health, will lay eggs that have smaller yoke sacks and/or poor egg shells.
her babys will never be as strong as babys that came from a strong gradmother.
in other words, starting off with a weak breeder will have dire consiquences in the future...it all starts with what you are doing now, and never ends down the road.
2) STOP THINKING OF BREEDING HER FOR NOW.
like laurie said, over feeding her and/or mating her could kill her.
nuff said.
3) as long as you know she is eating you are OK.
so what that she doesn't like or want supers right now...
try feeding her other things like well gut loaded crickets and roaches.
feed her every other day after the first two weeks have past since her laying.
only small amounts should be used...like 4 or 5 crickets.
dust every other feeding with pure calicium to help her recover from all her stress and she will be fine in another few weeks.
4) give her time to get healthy again.
wait at least 5 months so she can be strong and grow heathy eggs for you before mating her.
she needs to be realy strong before you even think of her having babys.
5) if you are realy intent on breeding her, please do alot of reading before trying this at home.
no joke.
you are in for a lot of work and you need to learn what needs to be done.
the forum members here make it sound easy, but once the babys start hatching, you are in for alot of work and need to know what has to be done.
not only that but you need to be prepared for the babys well before they hatch.
you can not wait untill the last minute to have food ready for them, or cages/tanks for them.
you must be prepared in advance and know what needs to be done.
6) keep asking questions.
even after you read everything on the web, and have all the things you need in advance, keep asking questions from forum members here.
good luck,
Harry
BocaJan
New Member
Just an aside here - When I have a clutch that is going to hatch soon I purchase 6 containers of fruit flies. It takes them awhile to really hatch out to feed baby chams and boy can they eat! Those containers last me about 3 weeks when I switch to 1/4's I buy them 1500 per week. After a couple of weeks of 1/4's I switch to 1/2's.
I use a big plastic bin to house them. After 2 months you need another plastic bin because they start fighting. When they are getting flies I keep a piece of net over the top to keep the flies in. You have to stretch it tight and clip the edges down. There may be better ways to do this but this works for me. When you switch to the crickets you don't need the mesh. They need to be misted 3-4 times a day.
You also need to have a UV linear lamp over the top of the bin, along with a basking light. The room I keep mine in is 75-80 degrees but the little things get cold easily and love the clamp light.
With all the food they're eating they of course poop! and poop! and poop! I keep plastic vines and this plastic 1" mesh stuff in the bin for them to crawl on. 2-3 times a week I start with another clean plastic bin, lay down clean paper towels and have spare plastic plants, etc. for the bottom. I count them one by one as I put them in the clean container so I don't miss any of them. I then wash out the dirty bin with bleach water and all the plants in hot bleach water. It takes awhile because the poop is all over the branches, etc. They then are kept in the clean bin waiting for the next time I clean the bin.
My clutches are 40+ vielded babies. You need to start figuring out how, who, where and when you are going to sell them. The larger the better.
Whoever said raising babies was easy hasn't raised many clutches. It is work and expensive. If you are unable to provide for the babies as I have stated above, don't even think of breeding your females.
I find it fun and love the babies, however I am home all day, have adequate resources and have a hubby who helps out.
I use a big plastic bin to house them. After 2 months you need another plastic bin because they start fighting. When they are getting flies I keep a piece of net over the top to keep the flies in. You have to stretch it tight and clip the edges down. There may be better ways to do this but this works for me. When you switch to the crickets you don't need the mesh. They need to be misted 3-4 times a day.
You also need to have a UV linear lamp over the top of the bin, along with a basking light. The room I keep mine in is 75-80 degrees but the little things get cold easily and love the clamp light.
With all the food they're eating they of course poop! and poop! and poop! I keep plastic vines and this plastic 1" mesh stuff in the bin for them to crawl on. 2-3 times a week I start with another clean plastic bin, lay down clean paper towels and have spare plastic plants, etc. for the bottom. I count them one by one as I put them in the clean container so I don't miss any of them. I then wash out the dirty bin with bleach water and all the plants in hot bleach water. It takes awhile because the poop is all over the branches, etc. They then are kept in the clean bin waiting for the next time I clean the bin.
My clutches are 40+ vielded babies. You need to start figuring out how, who, where and when you are going to sell them. The larger the better.
Whoever said raising babies was easy hasn't raised many clutches. It is work and expensive. If you are unable to provide for the babies as I have stated above, don't even think of breeding your females.
I find it fun and love the babies, however I am home all day, have adequate resources and have a hubby who helps out.
Ryan123
New Member
they are infertile but ill keep that in mind and i already have people that WILL buy as soon as they are ready i dont even have to worry about that i calleed around wayyyyyyyy before i bought my two panthers thats all good and i have hatched other lizzards before so it cant be much different thanks
ChrisnLisa
Avid Member
they are infertile but ill keep that in mind and i already have people that WILL buy as soon as they are ready i dont even have to worry about that i calleed around wayyyyyyyy before i bought my two panthers thats all good and i have hatched other lizzards before so it cant be much different thanks
Keep in mind that it will be about a year from laying until they are ready to sell. A lot can change in that amount of time.
