leaving crix in with chameleon
- Thread starter Blue
- Start date
Syn
Avid Member
Yes there was a recent post about this, you can read about it -> https://www.chameleonforums.com/keeping-crickets-enclosure-20867/
Any kind of cricket can be a problem if not well fed and curious. This goes for many species of insect.
Any kind of cricket can be a problem if not well fed and curious. This goes for many species of insect.
jannb
Chameleon Enthusiast
At that size, he should probably be in a plastic tub. Jann
Syn
Avid Member
Well you need a screen cage for when he's older fyi. It should be fine for now but when he gets older you NEED a screen cage. Chameleons thrive on air flow. They need good air. I suggest filling out the how to ask for help thread https://www.chameleonforums.com/how-ask-help-66/ <- there so we can check out your husbandry.
Blue
Member
ok Jann you know I thought this i have had some bum info. Ok what about the lighting etc in the plastic tub. or could i put the tub in the viv!!!!
Chameleon Company
Avid Member
Lots of issues with this ....
I read the other thread as well, and as noted, "better safe than sorry", but it helps to know the parameters where things get dicey. A few general considerations and guidelines:
1) Crickets seem to need to be of a minimum size to chew through the otherwise healthy skin of a chameleon. This ability becomes increasingly more probable as crickets reach the 1/4-3/8" size. Have never had pinheads present an issue when it comes to creating wounds in a normal set-up.
2) The larger the cricket, the greater the risk, as it can roam more, chew harder, and eat more.
3) The smaller the cage, the greater the risk, as it increases access to the chameleon by wandering crickets at night. More interactions equals more opportunity.
4) The greater the number of uneaten crickets left overnight, the greater the risk.
5) Having food in the cage for the crickets to eat at night. other than your chameleon, reduces the risk. Fresh greens, carrot, etc., will help.
6) Cup feeding will reduce the number of crickets loose at night, vs. free range feeding, and consequently reduce the risk.
We only free-range here, and while we endeavor to minimize cricket chews, we still deal with them often enough. Using the above considerations, we manage it as best we can. I strongly recommend that you make a very reasonable effort to minimize the risk, as once it happens, it gets ugly in a hurry. Should you catch the wound small enough, immediately change your husbandry so as to not allow the next night's crickets to enlarge it, and treat with a topical antibiotic every few days until healed. If small enough, it can heal and almost disappear as the chameleon grows. If a significant chew, its a scar for life, and sometimes a very pronounced one.
"An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure" ... aka "better safe than sorry".
I read the other thread as well, and as noted, "better safe than sorry", but it helps to know the parameters where things get dicey. A few general considerations and guidelines:
1) Crickets seem to need to be of a minimum size to chew through the otherwise healthy skin of a chameleon. This ability becomes increasingly more probable as crickets reach the 1/4-3/8" size. Have never had pinheads present an issue when it comes to creating wounds in a normal set-up.
2) The larger the cricket, the greater the risk, as it can roam more, chew harder, and eat more.
3) The smaller the cage, the greater the risk, as it increases access to the chameleon by wandering crickets at night. More interactions equals more opportunity.
4) The greater the number of uneaten crickets left overnight, the greater the risk.
5) Having food in the cage for the crickets to eat at night. other than your chameleon, reduces the risk. Fresh greens, carrot, etc., will help.
6) Cup feeding will reduce the number of crickets loose at night, vs. free range feeding, and consequently reduce the risk.
We only free-range here, and while we endeavor to minimize cricket chews, we still deal with them often enough. Using the above considerations, we manage it as best we can. I strongly recommend that you make a very reasonable effort to minimize the risk, as once it happens, it gets ugly in a hurry. Should you catch the wound small enough, immediately change your husbandry so as to not allow the next night's crickets to enlarge it, and treat with a topical antibiotic every few days until healed. If small enough, it can heal and almost disappear as the chameleon grows. If a significant chew, its a scar for life, and sometimes a very pronounced one.
"An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure" ... aka "better safe than sorry".
summoner12
Avid Member
I tub my young Melleri. This is his setup. I have used it for Pat and now for Chris.
I have added to this arrangement so he can get higher up near the lights and to keep crickets from eating him. He has been getting nibbled on. I feed him only a couple of crickets at a time and I keep a close eye if there are any left in the tub, and remove them.
There is a heat lamp 50w, 100w heat coil (for cold nights, its on a dimmer to regulate its output) and a 5.0 UVB linear tube. The up-side-down looking tub with a hose coming into it is my mister. The tub is too small to have a misting nozzle going full blast. The tub limits the coverage and also causes the water to drip.
summoner12
Avid Member
I just want to say how important the first sentence is.... My little guy got bit or should I say chewed on and now its 'ugly' and it got there in a hurry!
Blue
Member
Fantastic everyone this is a great help ok for info my cham has been with me three weeks. he changes a nice colour when reasting and climbs well and there are droppings so I know he is eating fine and drinking .. what a great forum. thank youI tub my young Melleri. This is his setup. I have used it for Pat and now for Chris.
I have added to this arrangement so he can get higher up near the lights and to keep crickets from eating him. He has been getting nibbled on. I feed him only a couple of crickets at a time and I keep a close eye if there are any left in the tub, and remove them.
There is a heat lamp 50w, 100w heat coil (for cold nights, its on a dimmer to regulate its output) and a 5.0 UVB linear tube. The up-side-down looking tub with a hose coming into it is my mister. The tub is too small to have a misting nozzle going full blast. The tub limits the coverage and also causes the water to drip.
Blue
Member
Thanks a million brilliant advice.
summoner12
Avid Member
Yeah, hes a Melleri. and thanks.
Blue
Member
My Cham
Well I caught my cham actually feeding this morning he waited near where I feed the crix. So I am pleased to leave him in the exoterra. I sit and watch him with the doors open a lot so not a great deal of stale air the top is mesh and its vented. I do however had the mesh one ready for him when he is bigger that is 4 feet high etc. I just orderd some wingless fruit flies for the morning so he will have somthing else to hunt.
I would like to Thank Syn for the efforts made to help me here in Wales. I went to the pet shop today and asked him when this Cham hatched it was a week before Christmas, I did tell him it would have been better if he had waited to sell them a bit. But he is a good guy and does keep everything immaculate.
Well I caught my cham actually feeding this morning he waited near where I feed the crix. So I am pleased to leave him in the exoterra. I sit and watch him with the doors open a lot so not a great deal of stale air the top is mesh and its vented. I do however had the mesh one ready for him when he is bigger that is 4 feet high etc. I just orderd some wingless fruit flies for the morning so he will have somthing else to hunt.
I would like to Thank Syn for the efforts made to help me here in Wales. I went to the pet shop today and asked him when this Cham hatched it was a week before Christmas, I did tell him it would have been better if he had waited to sell them a bit. But he is a good guy and does keep everything immaculate.
