Hello All new chameleon Owner

[GinjaNinja]

I have been doing a lot of reading in the forums and as of now, my Lil girl eats very well. But I would like to give her something other than crickets. She is not super big but not small she is about a month old maybe a lil more what worm would be best to give her? I was wondering if Silk would be.

 

[Beman]

Hi there welcome to the forum. There are many other feeders you can introduce. you just want to make sure they are size appropriate. Silks would be good just get the small sized.
Do you have a pic of your baby you could post?

Here is our feeder graphic.

 

[kinyonga]

Welcome to the forum!
What species is your chameleon?

 

[GinjaNinja]

Here is a Pic of her she is a Veiled Chameleon as you can tell lol

 

[Flick boy]

Hi welcome to the forum

 

[GinjaNinja]

Thank you!

 

[Flick boy]

Thank you!

Hi what light/ s are you using

 

[ChamelaChameleon]

Hi there welcome to the forum. There are many other feeders you can introduce. you just want to make sure they are size appropriate. Silks would be good just get the small sized.
Do you have a pic of your baby you could post?

Here is our feeder graphic.

Last month, I started feeding grasshoppers. My Chameleon can't wait for me to put them in the cage. He almost took one from the tongs. (I never tong feed). Grasshoppers are easy to care for and gut load, clean, and live all month.

 

[MissSkittles]

Hi and welcome! Your pretty little lady looks to be somewhere at least maybe 4+ months old. Did you know that whether she ever even sees a boy, she’ll be laying eggs? Our veiled ladies mature as young as 5-6 months old and can start egg production and laying that early. Because of that, it’s more important than ever to make sure and then double sure that we have all of our care as close to perfect as possible. If you’d like, we can help with a double check with you. Would just need you to answer the following (copy & paste with your answers) and then we can go over everything. Pics of your entire enclosure (lights included) are also a huge help.
Chameleon Info:

• Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
• Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
• Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
• Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
• Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
• Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
• History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
• Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
• Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
• Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
• Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
• Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
• Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

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Please Note:

1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
2. Photos can be very helpful.

 

[kinyonga]

With veiled females producing eggs without mating, there can be reproductive issues, if they are over fed and have basking or cage temperatures that are too warm…so as they approach sexual maturity, they need to be cut back on the feeding and the temperatures need to be 80F (+ or - a degree or two) to keep the number of follicles/eggs they produce low enough that they don’t end up with follicular stasis or egg binding…or other issues.
The issue is, that we don’t know exactly when they will suddenly reach sexual maturity, so we start when they are still not showing their mature receptive colours (mustardy coloured splotches and bluish spots) to cut them back. We don’t want them to be skinny or starve, we just want them not be over fed/fat.

It’s also important to provide them with a suitable/proper egg laying site in the cage as they become receptive. They can become egg bound if they have no place to lay the eggs.

Supplements (calcium, phos, D3 and vitamin A need to be in the right balance) and other husbandry needs to be spot on as well. It’s not that hard to do…it’s just important to do it.