Health Check

vaporwave

Member
My chameleons are 6 months old now, and I wanted to check with you guys to see how you think they look. To me, they look a little skinny, but I’m feeding them twice a day with 4-8 crickets (each time). They’re small crickets, but I’m worried they’ll choke on the large, and the store doesn’t have a size between the two, which is why I’m feeding them a lot of crickets. Also, I’m worried that the panther might have parasites. I’m on the way to drop off a fecal sample now. She’s so small, barely bigger than when I got her. At first I thought that she was just growing at a different rate because I know that happens sometimes, but she’s a lot older now and still tiny. Also, I wanted to make sure they look healthy just in general.
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8-16 a day? really not much for younger chams. Typically they are given as much as they want when they are growing and then slowly curbing back amounts once they hit the 9 month mark.

Hard to tell size of them. But any chameleon that is new to you should get a fecal test done. This ensures that your not bringing parasites in and potentially contaminating any other chameleons you may have.

Are they both in separate cages? They should not be able to see each other either.
 
8-16 a day? really not much for younger chams. Typically they are given as much as they want when they are growing and then slowly curbing back amounts once they hit the 9 month mark.

Hard to tell size of them. But any chameleon that is new to you should get a fecal test done. This ensures that your not bringing parasites in and potentially contaminating any other chameleons you may have.

Are they both in separate cages? They should not be able to see each other either.
I did get a fecal test done when I first got them; they were parasite free. They are both in separate cages, but the cages are on the same desk. I will arrange it so they cannot see each other, thank you! I’ll also look at getting them some slightly bigger crickets, but ordering them online.
Thank you so much! This was a huge help.
 
I did get a fecal test done when I first got them; they were parasite free. They are both in separate cages, but the cages are on the same desk. I will arrange it so they cannot see each other, thank you! I’ll also look at getting them some slightly bigger crickets, but ordering them online.
Thank you so much! This was a huge help.
So they can be on the same table. But you want a solid water proof divider between them. Even plastic craft board will work for this. The stress of seeing each other can cause issues.

Can you post more pics of each of them so I can fully see their bodies?

Have you done a health review by filling out the form and posting pics of the entire enclosure including your lighting?
 
So they can be on the same table. But you want a solid water proof divider between them. Even plastic craft board will work for this. The stress of seeing each other can cause issues.

Can you post more pics of each of them so I can fully see their bodies?

Have you done a health review by filling out the form and posting pics of the entire enclosure including your lighting?
I can’t post more pictures right now, but I’ll post them when I get home. In the meantime:
  • Your Chameleon - 6 month old female panther chameleon, 6 month old male veiled chameleon. I’ve had them both for three months.
  • Handling - I don’t handle them too much, once every few days or so.
  • Feeding - I’m feeding them crickets and just got some dubia roaches to breed. So, soon they’ll be eating roaches as well. I was gutloading with a little ground almond and fruits and vegetables. Then I recently had to leave town for a couple of months, and my parents were taking care of them. They did not gutload like that, they used those little cricket cubes. I got back a week or two ago, and bought the Flukers cricket gutload, but after researching I realized that is not sufficient. So I’m going back to fruits, veggies, and some occasional ground almond.
  • Supplements - I do dust feeders with calcium. I alternate between the d3 and regular, once every two weeks for the d3. I have not used vitamins, but if it’s recommended, I’ll definitely pick some up. I use repticalcium.
  • Watering - I mist twice a day, but my mister broke so I’ve been having to use a squirt bottle. Like a condiment bottle. Just got another mister today, so I’ll be using that from now on.
  • Fecal Description - I’ll update this when I get home.
  • History - None

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - The panther cage is screen, and 18” x 18” x 36”, and the veiled’s is the same but the front door only is glass.
  • Lighting - I use reptisun, and I don’t remember the brand of heat lamp. I’ll check when I get home.
  • Temperature - I honestly don’t know what the
  • Humidity - I do not know the percentage, but I mist twice a day.
  • Plants - I am using mostly live plants. The only fake plant is in the panther’s cage, not the veiled’s. I am also in the process of ordering new plants. The hibiscuses recently died, which isn’t surprising since they were inside, but I’m looking to really upgrade my cage setup. I’m ordering about $200 worth of plants.
  • Placement - Their enclosures are on my desk. The top of the cage is about 5’ off the floor.
  • Location - GA

Current Problem - Just checking on their general health and well-being and also checking to see if they’re too skinny.
 
I can’t post more pictures right now, but I’ll post them when I get home. In the meantime:
  • Your Chameleon - 6 month old female panther chameleon, 6 month old male veiled chameleon. I’ve had them both for three months.
  • Handling - I don’t handle them too much, once every few days or so.
  • Feeding - I’m feeding them crickets and just got some dubia roaches to breed. So, soon they’ll be eating roaches as well. I was gutloading with a little ground almond and fruits and vegetables. Then I recently had to leave town for a couple of months, and my parents were taking care of them. They did not gutload like that, they used those little cricket cubes. I got back a week or two ago, and bought the Flukers cricket gutload, but after researching I realized that is not sufficient. So I’m going back to fruits, veggies, and some occasional ground almond.
  • Supplements - I do dust feeders with calcium. I alternate between the d3 and regular, once every two weeks for the d3. I have not used vitamins, but if it’s recommended, I’ll definitely pick some up. I use repticalcium.
  • Watering - I mist twice a day, but my mister broke so I’ve been having to use a squirt bottle. Like a condiment bottle. Just got another mister today, so I’ll be using that from now on.
  • Fecal Description - I’ll update this when I get home.
  • History - None

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - The panther cage is screen, and 18” x 18” x 36”, and the veiled’s is the same but the front door only is glass.
  • Lighting - I use reptisun, and I don’t remember the brand of heat lamp. I’ll check when I get home.
  • Temperature - I honestly don’t know what the
  • Humidity - I do not know the percentage, but I mist twice a day.
  • Plants - I am using mostly live plants. The only fake plant is in the panther’s cage, not the veiled’s. I am also in the process of ordering new plants. The hibiscuses recently died, which isn’t surprising since they were inside, but I’m looking to really upgrade my cage setup. I’m ordering about $200 worth of plants.
  • Placement - Their enclosures are on my desk. The top of the cage is about 5’ off the floor.
  • Location - GA

Current Problem - Just checking on their general health and well-being and also checking to see if they’re too skinny.
Ok see my initial feedback in bold.

  • Your Chameleon - 6 month old female panther chameleon, 6 month old male veiled chameleon. I’ve had them both for three months. How long were you in charge of their care vs your parents?
  • Handling - I don’t handle them too much, once every few days or so.
  • Feeding - I’m feeding them crickets and just got some dubia roaches to breed. So, soon they’ll be eating roaches as well. I was gutloading with a little ground almond and fruits and vegetables. Then I recently had to leave town for a couple of months, and my parents were taking care of them. They did not gutload like that, they used those little cricket cubes. I got back a week or two ago, and bought the Flukers cricket gutload, but after researching I realized that is not sufficient. So I’m going back to fruits, veggies, and some occasional ground almond. See gutload image below. My concern with your parents taking care of them is what was skipped or missed. When they are young consistent correct care is extremely important for growth and development. Skipping supplementing or not feeding enough can cause a great deal of harm.
  • Supplements - I do dust feeders with calcium. I alternate between the d3 and regular, once every two weeks for the d3. I have not used vitamins, but if it’s recommended, I’ll definitely pick some up. I use repticalcium. Ok so you want to buy Reptivite without D3. WIth this one you will use the Calcium with D3 two times a month and the Reptivite without D3 two times a month. These will rotate week to week at 1 feeding only. Then all other feedings they need calcium without D3. This is extremely important. They must have the calcium to balance out the phosphorus to calcium ratio of the feeders so that they can grow strong bones. Without it being done correctly they will actually pull calcium from the bones which makes them brittle and easily breakable. The reptivite without D3 is the multivitamin with Preformed Vitamin A. This is very very important for eyes and tongues.
  • Watering - I mist twice a day, but my mister broke so I’ve been having to use a squirt bottle. Like a condiment bottle. Just got another mister today, so I’ll be using that from now on. Good mister bottle is needed. Two times a day morning and evening for 2-4 minutes. You can put a solo cup on top of the cage and put pin holes in the bottom add ice cubes and this will provide a slow drip during the day for them to drink.
  • Fecal Description - I’ll update this when I get home.
  • History - None

Cage Info:

  • Cage Type - The panther cage is screen, and 18” x 18” x 36”, and the veiled’s is the same but the front door only is glass. Both will need to be upgraded to the 2x2x4 foot cages... Start looking now these are not easy to find.
  • Lighting - I use reptisun, and I don’t remember the brand of heat lamp. I’ll check when I get home. Please let me know. I also need to know if this is the long linear fixture or if this is the screw in bulb. You want the long linear T5HO fixture and a 5.0 bulb. Basking would be 8-9 inches below for the right UVI level. This is very important so let me know what you have so I can give you exact feedback on it. MBD develops when they do not have the correct UVB lighting. It is a really horrible disfiguring disease.
  • Temperature - I honestly don’t know what the.. This is extremely important. Basking for male Veileds and Panthers is 80-85 degrees at the branch. You need a temp gauge with a probe. The probe is tied in at the branch below the heat fixture. Like this https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Digi...25700897&sprefix=zoo+med+temp+,aps,199&sr=8-1
  • Humidity - I do not know the percentage, but I mist twice a day. Another important detail. Govee makes great devices. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R586J37/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  • Just do not spray directly. Veileds need 30-50% daytime humidity and Panthers need 50-60% daytime humidity levels.
  • Plants - I am using mostly live plants. The only fake plant is in the panther’s cage, not the veiled’s. I am also in the process of ordering new plants. The hibiscuses recently died, which isn’t surprising since they were inside, but I’m looking to really upgrade my cage setup. I’m ordering about $200 worth of plants. Go to home depot or lowes for plants... you will get larger plants cheaper. Plants need plant lighting. Hibiscus really needs it or they die off. Safe plant list https://chameleonacademy.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Chameleon-Plants-061321.pdf
  • Placement - Their enclosures are on my desk. The top of the cage is about 5’ off the floor.
  • Location - GA

Current Problem - Just checking on their general health and well-being and also checking to see if they’re too skinny.
Add pics when you get a chance and answer the few questions I had so I can give exact info. :)

chameleon-gutload.jpg
chameleon-food(1).jpg
 
Ok see my initial feedback in bold.

  • Your Chameleon - 6 month old female panther chameleon, 6 month old male veiled chameleon. I’ve had them both for three months. How long were you in charge of their care vs your parents?
I was in charge of their care for about two weeks before I suddenly had to go to the hospital.
  • Handling - I don’t handle them too much, once every few days or so.
  • Feeding - I’m feeding them crickets and just got some dubia roaches to breed. So, soon they’ll be eating roaches as well. I was gutloading with a little ground almond and fruits and vegetables. Then I recently had to leave town for a couple of months, and my parents were taking care of them. They did not gutload like that, they used those little cricket cubes. I got back a week or two ago, and bought the Flukers cricket gutload, but after researching I realized that is not sufficient. So I’m going back to fruits, veggies, and some occasional ground almond. See gutload image below. My concern with your parents taking care of them is what was skipped or missed. When they are young consistent correct care is extremely important for growth and development. Skipping supplementing or not feeding enough can cause a great deal of harm.
I’m about to make some gutload using the infographic below; thank you!
  • Supplements - I do dust feeders with calcium. I alternate between the d3 and regular, once every two weeks for the d3. I have not used vitamins, but if it’s recommended, I’ll definitely pick some up. I use repticalcium. Ok so you want to buy Reptivite without D3. WIth this one you will use the Calcium with D3 two times a month and the Reptivite without D3 two times a month. These will rotate week to week at 1 feeding only. Then all other feedings they need calcium without D3. This is extremely important. They must have the calcium to balance out the phosphorus to calcium ratio of the feeders so that they can grow strong bones. Without it being done correctly they will actually pull calcium from the bones which makes them brittle and easily breakable. The reptivite without D3 is the multivitamin with Preformed Vitamin A. This is very very important for eyes and tongues.
Thank you! I’ll order some!
  • Watering - I mist twice a day, but my mister broke so I’ve been having to use a squirt bottle. Like a condiment bottle. Just got another mister today, so I’ll be using that from now on. Good mister bottle is needed. Two times a day morning and evening for 2-4 minutes. You can put a solo cup on top of the cage and put pin holes in the bottom add ice cubes and this will provide a slow drip during the day for them to drink.

  • Fecal Description - I’ll update this when I get home.
  • History - None

Cage Info:

  • Cage Type - The panther cage is screen, and 18” x 18” x 36”, and the veiled’s is the same but the front door only is glass. Both will need to be upgraded to the 2x2x4 foot cages... Start looking now these are not easy to find.
Yep, planning on upgrading. They’re in those for now only because they’re babies.
Lighting - I use reptisun, and I don’t remember the brand of heat lamp. I’ll check when I get home. Please let me know. I also need to know if this is the long linear fixture or if this is the screw in bulb. You want the long linear T5HO fixture and a 5.0 bulb. Basking would be 8-9 inches below for the right UVI level. This is very important so let me know what you have so I can give you exact feedback on it. MBD develops when they do not have the correct UVB lighting. It is a really horrible disfiguring disease.
It is the linear fixture, but I got a 10.0 because I had read that the 5.0 wasn’t that good and the output was too weak for them. Should I change to 5.0?
  • Plants - I am using mostly live plants. The only fake plant is in the panther’s cage, not the veiled’s. I am also in the process of ordering new plants. The hibiscuses recently died, which isn’t surprising since they were inside, but I’m looking to really upgrade my cage setup. I’m ordering about $200 worth of plants. Go to home depot or lowes for plants... you will get larger plants cheaper. Plants need plant lighting. Hibiscus really needs it or they die off. Safe plant list https://chameleonacademy.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Chameleon-Plants-061321.pdf
  • Placement - Their enclosures are on my desk. The top of the cage is about 5’ off the floor.
  • Location - GA

Current Problem - Just checking on their general health and well-being and also checking to see if they’re too skinny.
Add pics when you get a chance and answer the few questions I had so I can give exact info. :)

View attachment 305053View attachment 305054
Thank you so much!
 
I was in charge of their care for about two weeks before I suddenly had to go to the hospital.

I’m about to make some gutload using the infographic below; thank you!

Thank you! I’ll order some!



Yep, planning on upgrading. They’re in those for now only because they’re babies.

It is the linear fixture, but I got a 10.0 because I had read that the 5.0 wasn’t that good and the output was too weak for them. Should I change to 5.0?




Thank you so much!
Yes, you will want to change the UVB bulb to the 5.0 and then the distance to the branch below the fixture should be 8-9 inches no closer. This will put them in an approximate 3UVI level which is what they need. The 10.0 would literally need a 11-12 inch distance to branch to provide the 3 UVI level. So yes you can use the higher strength but you have to have the distance correct.

If you can post additional pics of the chams that would be helpful. I hope you are doing well now. :)
 
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