I have kept/bred/hatched/raised veileds for over 15 years (I don't want to figure it out exactly....but I first started keeping chameleons in the mid 80's). Here's how I incubate veiled eggs...
As you have already done...I put them in rows in shoebox sized rubbermaid type containers....however I have never used perlite (lots of other people have...I'm just not going to be able to tell you if you have the moisture level right with it)...I have always used the coarse grade of vermiculite, slightly moistened. I put two very tiny holes in the lid...if the holes are too big they will let too much moisture evaporate from the container...but again, maybe its okay for the holes to be bigger when you use perlite...I can't tell you.
I put the eggs in rows about 1 inch apart and put the lids back on. I put the containers somewhere where the temperature will be about 76F. It can fluctuate a couple of degrees in either direction without causing problems. They take about 240 days to hatch at this temperature.
If the eggs are infertile, they will mold, dent in and become obviously bad. This clutch could contain some fertile eggs and some infertile. Since it was three or four weeks ago that you got the male, the clutch will likely contain both fertile and infertile eggs. Do some of the eggs look smaller and less white than others? Can you post a picture of them please?
BTW...if the moisture level drops too low, they could dent in even if they are fertile...but you can usually fix this as long as you catch it in time by adding a little water...but do not add it on top of the eggs...add it around the edges.
Now...you said that you have two females in the same cage? Generally this will take a tole on the health of the chameleons even if it doesn't appear that they are bothered by each other. The signs are subtle at first....so I would recommend that you separate all three of them, visually as well.
You said..."Then after that both girls started kicking his butt so i had to bring him back to the petstore"...they do this when they are gravid...so expect the other one to lay eggs too.
Since this is your first experience with chameleons, here is more information that I hope will help. Sorry if I'm throwing a lot at you all at once.
Veiled chameleons can easily suffer from MBD and the females can also have egglaying issues if you overfeed them, don't give them the right nutrients or husbandry....so here is some information on keeping veiled chameleons...
Appropriate temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part in nutrient absorption. A regular incandescent household light in a domed hood is all I use...but I don't use one for females unless the cage is below 80F.
Exposure to UVB either from a proper UVB light or from direct sunlight allows the chameleon to produce D3 which allows it to use the calcium in its system. The light from either source should not pass through glass or plastic. The most commonly recommended UVB light is the Reptisun 5.0 long linear fluorescent tube light.
Since most feeder insects used have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorous, dusting the insects, before feeding them to the chameleon, with a phos.-free calcium powder at most feedings to make up for it.
I also dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder. D3 from supplements can build up in the system...so don't overdo it.
I dust twice a month with a vitamin powder that has a beta carotene source of vitamin A. Beta carotene (prOformed vitamin A) will not build up in the system like prEformed vitamin A will, but there is controversy as to whether any/all chameleons can convert the beta carotene...so some people give a little prEformed once in a while. Excess prEformed can interfere with the D3 and push the chameleon towards MBD though...so be careful with it.
Gutloading/feeding your insects well is important too. Crickets, roaches, superworms can be fed a wide variety of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet red pepper, sweet potato, zucchini, etc.).
These same veggies and greens can be given to the chameleons too...along with a little bit of fruit (apple, pear, melon, berries, etc.)
Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and play roles in other systems too and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleons.
Here are some good sites with good information...
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://web.archive.org/web/20060502...rnals.com/vet/index.php?show=5.Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/20060421.../index.php?show=6.Vitamin.D3.and.Calcium.html
http://chameleonnews.com/?page=article&id=102
http://adcham.com/
http://raisingkittytheveiledchameleon.blogspot.com/
http://raisingkittytheveiledchameleon.blogspot.com/2007/12/keeping-female-veiled.html
Once again...sorry for such a large post.
BTW..you can tell male veileds from females by looking at the heels...if there is a spur there, its a male...
http://adcham.com/html/husbandry/glossary/tarsalspur.html
Good luck with the eggs! I'm sure your son will be excited to see the eggs grow and hatch...and to see the adorable babies!