This is one case where incorrect UVB lighting along with improper over usage of D3 may have prevented a worse case of MBD....it does need to be corrected.
Usually what has to happen to correct the MBD is to see a vet to get a liquid calcium to use along with proper supplementing, proper UVB, good feeding/gutloading of the insects, appropriate temperatures. Once the MBD has been corrected the liquid calcium can be dropped but all the other husbandry needs to be spot on to keep it from happening again.
Supplementing...we recommend dusting the insects lightly just before feeding them to the chameleon, with a phosphorous free calcium powder at all feedings but one a week. On that one feeding alternate between a phos free calcium/D3 powder and a vitamin powder with no D3 but that has a prEformed source (retinol...not beta carotene) of vitamin A lightly. There are other methods...but they boil down to the same thing in the end. @Beman has already given you one.
D3 from supplements can build up in the system which is why we don't use it often. It's just meant to give the chameleon some without overdosing it and letting it produce the rest from its exposure to the UVB light.
@Beman knows best about all the lights, so listen to her on that.
Vitamin A comes in to forms...PrOformed or prEformed. PrOformed come from vegetable sources and is usually beta carotene. It's converted into vitamin A as needed...so it can't be overdosed. However, there is controversy over whether it can be converted by any/all chameleons or not though....so we provide some prEformed to ensure the chameleon gets some. PrEformed is ready to go...doesn't need to be converted...so it can be overdosed.
It comes from retinol sources.
Proper feeding/gutloading helps to ensure that the insects are healthy for your chameleon.
Appropriate temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part in absorption of nutrients indirectly.
Everything we advise to be done in the husbandry, of course has a part in keeping the chameleon healthy. I hope this has helped!
Usually what has to happen to correct the MBD is to see a vet to get a liquid calcium to use along with proper supplementing, proper UVB, good feeding/gutloading of the insects, appropriate temperatures. Once the MBD has been corrected the liquid calcium can be dropped but all the other husbandry needs to be spot on to keep it from happening again.
Supplementing...we recommend dusting the insects lightly just before feeding them to the chameleon, with a phosphorous free calcium powder at all feedings but one a week. On that one feeding alternate between a phos free calcium/D3 powder and a vitamin powder with no D3 but that has a prEformed source (retinol...not beta carotene) of vitamin A lightly. There are other methods...but they boil down to the same thing in the end. @Beman has already given you one.
D3 from supplements can build up in the system which is why we don't use it often. It's just meant to give the chameleon some without overdosing it and letting it produce the rest from its exposure to the UVB light.
@Beman knows best about all the lights, so listen to her on that.
Vitamin A comes in to forms...PrOformed or prEformed. PrOformed come from vegetable sources and is usually beta carotene. It's converted into vitamin A as needed...so it can't be overdosed. However, there is controversy over whether it can be converted by any/all chameleons or not though....so we provide some prEformed to ensure the chameleon gets some. PrEformed is ready to go...doesn't need to be converted...so it can be overdosed.
It comes from retinol sources.
Proper feeding/gutloading helps to ensure that the insects are healthy for your chameleon.
Appropriate temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part in absorption of nutrients indirectly.
Everything we advise to be done in the husbandry, of course has a part in keeping the chameleon healthy. I hope this has helped!
