Bumps on Veiled

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Cage Info:
Cage Type – 72 Gal bow front glass, 48 Long x 13 deep at the sides x 22 tall
Lighting – 48” Repti-Glo 5.0, Smaller ceramic heater, Repti Basking spot lamp 50w, the repti-glo 5.0 and the basking lamp turn off and on at 8am and 8pm. I leave the ceramic heater on all the time due to the cold office she is in now. But completely dark at night.
Temperature – 78 throughout the day, need better heat for sure. 75 at night, I need to make a basking spot. Waiting on my laser thermo to come in the mail.
Humidity – 50% for the most part, 60 – 65% after I mist with spray bottle, I have analog hygrometer
Plants – Pothos, hung throughout the tank
Placement – The cage is at my office right now, not a lot of traffic, just me going back and forth, the top of the cage is 50” from floor
Location – Northern Utah

Chameleon Info:
Your Chameleon – Veiled Chameleon, approximately 1½ years old, Female, had her for about 2 weeks now
Handling – Not very often as it seems to really scare her and stress her out.
Feeding – gut loaded crickets, superworms, some mealworms and some collard greens which I haven’t seen her eat any yet. I feed 5-6 feeders a day every morning
Supplements – I try to dust the mealworms with a Herptivite with beta carotene.
Watering – Right now it’s a water jug with a hole creating a drip system.
Fecal Description –Tested at a vet a couple days after getting her for parasites and she was clean, her pooh was runny but since has hardened.
History – I just got her from a guy who obviously did not take care of her, I want to get her back to health and breed her with my employees Male that is healthy and good colored.
Current Problem – She has had these bumbs down both sides and she doesn’t seem to be gaining much weight, the vet didn’t say anything about the bumbs, but Im concerned, I seem to be catching her sleep a lot during the day.
 

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Sleeping in the day is not good. Does she always have her eyes closed? More pictures would be helpful but the bumps look like her ribs to me. You need to warm up her basking spot to 80 or 81 and have the lights go off earlier at night.....around 6:00.

The feeders have to be "lightly" dusted with 3 kinds of supplements. Plain calcium (no d3) at just about every feeding. Calcium with d3 twice a month and a multi. vit. once a month. In this link I use the 1st, 3rd and 5th one.
http://lllreptile.com/store/catalog/...cage-cleaners/

You need to gut load the crickets with collard greens they are excellent. You can also use kale, carrots, squash and orange You can also buy a premixed gut load. One of the members here sales it. https://www.chameleonforums.com/cricket-crack-sale-23533/

It's also possible that she's ready to lay eggs. Does she have a laying bin?
 
Molly has those bumps, i'm guessing they're ribs that once broke from mishandling. That is what they look and feel like.
Here is a picture of the bumps on molly, similar?:
1028091423.jpg
 
I do dust with a rep cal herpivite, and gut load the crickets with flukers high calcium.
 
I don't have a laying bin as of yet, but I am making one that is 9 x9 and 12 deep, probably should be bigger. She is so skinny, I don't think she is gravid, but I am kinda new to this and might have got in over my head, but thats not gonna stop me.
 
The bumps could be from a calcium imbalance...but I can't say for sure. Are they right on each rib?

Its not good that she is sleeping during the day. Does the vet know that she's been doing this?

Its important that you have the cage temperature around 80F so she can digest her food properly. For a basking light you can use a regular incandescent household bulb of a wattage that provides the right temperature (80 to 85F). I put this bulb in a domed hood. Generally chameleons recognize light as a source of heat so you won't need the ceramic heater unless your gets colder than 65F during the night.

You said...."dust the mealworms with a Herptivite with beta carotene"...this is a vitamin powder. I only use it twice a month.

You also need to dust at most feedings with a phos.-free calcium powder to make up for the often poor ratio of calcium to phos. found in many of the feeder insects.

I also dust twice a month lightly with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder to ensure that the chameleon gets enough D3 without overdosing it.
 
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