Are these thermal burn marks? and some other questions.

Chameleon Info:
Your Chameleon - Female veiled Cham. She was given to me by a friend that can no longer have her. I've had her for around 1 month now. Im guessing she is around 4 months at the moment.

Handling - The 1st two weeks I didnt handle her hand feeding was a common occurrence. Now shes warmed up to me I usually handle her once a day. What I do is before her second feeding of the day around 3 or 4 PM I put repti vine near her and give her a few taps on the butt and she climbs on. After that I cup feed her then once shes done eating I would let her climb around. She would climb over me on my back and sometimes I would let her run all over the living room. She seems very energetic! Also I put her in a 6 inch hanging pot with real pothos vines in it and I carry her around the balcony for some sun. She likes hovering around my plants but she hates it when its time for her to get back to the cage. She would play hide and seek withe me giving me trouble. Although she normally doesnt hiss at me and doenst turn to her dark stress colors. There are times that she will hiss, that is when I do sudden movements that blocks her vision. Its a learning experience though, not doing that again. What I have learned is NEVER to directly make her move to my hand while shes in her cage. She hates it! She turns dark green if I present my hand in her cage. But once shes on her stick she likes to climb up calm down and turn light green as we cruise around.

Feeding - I used to feed her crickets and was planning on breeding them but the stench and the noise was not an option for me. So for the first 2 weeks all crickets then crickets and mealworms while I was waiting for my reptiworms. After that I went on I say around 5 days of pure repti worms. Today I got my breeding starter pack for my dubia roaches. I purposely didnt feed her during her wake up meal so she would be hungrier and would jump on the dubia roaches. Today I fed her 15 small dubia roaches and 12 medium reptiworms. She eats ALOT!

Supplements - When I first got her the 1 or 2 week I believe I was feeding her calcium with D3 every other meal, by the instruction of her previous owner. After that I discovered this forum and knew better. THANK YOU! Now Im using Rep cap 0%D3 no phosphorus up to 2x a day ( I feed her 2x a day 90% of the time) Sticky tongue farms calcium/mineral supplement with D3 once a month. Repashy Superpig carotenoid supplement 1x a month. Repashy supervite once a month. Basically 1st week of month D3 second week supervite 3rd week super pig for supplement circulation.

Watering - I use 2 hand misters a simple one that came from the previous owner but now I have a Mist'r Lizard mister/sprayer/dripper creates a finer mist. I see her drink from the leaves. I mist once in the morning and once in the afternoon and once before bedtime.

Fecal Description - They used to be very mushy white segment and darm brown but now they are a bit firm. Im guessing due to less hydration? Im doing the same thing in the misting aspect.
I havent checked her for parasite yet.

History - Not the I know of.

Cage Info:
Cage Type -I have a 16 x 20 repti breeze cage all mesh. I do have a full grown 24x 48 breeder cage with front and top mesh plus 3 sides pvc plastic panels. I havent moved her yet still waiting for my laying bin. Im getting one in the up coming dallas repti con this saturday and sunday :)

Lighting - I used to have a 100w exo terra sun glo bulb that came from the original owner. I was thinking of keeping it due to the chilly winter but changed it around 4 days ago to a 40 watt daytime heatlamp bulb. Also a ReptiSun 10 UVB bulb. I just recently replaced the UVB bulb 4 days ago.

Temperature -Basking has been around 85 deg F and around 75 to 80 deg ambient temp. At night it goes down to about 60 deg and my heater kicks in an pushes it up to 75 deg. Measured using zoomed dual analog thermometer and hydrometer gauge. I have one close to her basking spot at the back of the cage and one at the front middle portion of the cage.

Humidity - Humidity seems alright, I spray her cage 3x a day at least and humidity usually never goes down below 40% hovers around 50 to 60 then bumps up to 70+ when misting

Plants - Not in her cage right now. I do have a big pothos vine for the inside and a small one is going to be hanged. Sometimes I let her sleep on the big plant for a night or 2.

Placement - Right now she is at the corner of my living room. I have her cage on top the big cage at the moment shes aobut 5 feet off the ground. No vents near by. The fire place is there but I dont use it. Used it once may plan on using it more, it depends. Will this harm her?

Location - Dallas Texas.

Current Problem - Today as I was feeding here I found some marks on her seems like burn marks... Can someone help me? How do I cure it if they are burn marks? Also when shes basking she opens her jaw for a min then closes it. Thats normal I've read. Is it?

One more thing, is there something I'm doing wrong? Any improvements you can recommend? Does she look healthy? Any good reptile vets you can recommend near Dallas fort worth area?

THANKS :)
 

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It does appear to be a burn.

You dont need a heater at night unless temps drop below 50 deg.



you can get a pain med free polysporin or if you can see a vet, a silvadine cream.

you can try a bigger cage and raising her lights off the top.

youl also want ot cut down on her food soon.

females tend to eat and eat like they are starved, even if they arent. and by reducing food at some point, you can reduce egg production
 
It does appear to be a burn.

You dont need a heater at night unless temps drop below 50 deg.



you can get a pain med free polysporin or if you can see a vet, a silvadine cream.

you can try a bigger cage and raising her lights off the top.

youl also want ot cut down on her food soon.

females tend to eat and eat like they are starved, even if they arent. and by reducing food at some point, you can reduce egg production

You also need to add a lot more foliage into that cage to make her feel comfortable.

I think Im gonna stop her by a vet soon. She still hasnt had her first visit. Any recommendations?

Also thanks for the info regarding food consumption! I did not know that. Always thought that feed her until she doesnt want to eat anymore.

About the foliage, I cover her cage with a blanket when she sleeps on her cage. I do have a few plants waiting to be transplanted to the big cage I got her. She will be moved into her new cage by next week. :)

Thank You!
 
I think Im gonna stop her by a vet soon. She still hasnt had her first visit. Any recommendations?

Also thanks for the info regarding food consumption! I did not know that. Always thought that feed her until she doesnt want to eat anymore.

About the foliage, I cover her cage with a blanket when she sleeps on her cage. I do have a few plants waiting to be transplanted to the big cage I got her. She will be moved into her new cage by next week. :)

Thank You!

recommendations for what?

As babies yes they should get their fill, but as they get older, females have to be limited, if you dont, they eat and eat, and then produce eggs, and the larger the clutch, the harder it is on her. some females have been known to lay 50+ eggs.


and covering the cage has nothing to do with it.

they need the foliage to feel safe. not enough leaves them exposed and unsafe.

i
 
I don't think that is a burn at all but simply a scratch from something in her cage or from the transport to your place.

Thermal burns generally appear on the top of the chameleon particularly on the spine, casque, knees and elbows as those areas are closest to the offending light. There would be other areas, not that specific spot, if it was a burn. If you are concerned you can certainly put some polysporin in the mark to help it heal but it will probably do so on its own. If it changes in size or starts oozing a trip to the vet is in order. Watch that area during her next shed.
 
When she reaches sexually maturity she can produce eggs so it's recommended that she have a place to dig in the cage so you know when she needs to lay them. Failure to do so can lead to eggbinding and death.

Overfeeding them constantly once they are mature can lead to reproductive issues, prolapses and even MBD so that's one reason to put her on a "diet" at that time. By diet...don't overfeed her and don't starve her.

Good luck with her! She's a cutey!
 
recommendations for what?

As babies yes they should get their fill, but as they get older, females have to be limited, if you dont, they eat and eat, and then produce eggs, and the larger the clutch, the harder it is on her. some females have been known to lay 50+ eggs.


and covering the cage has nothing to do with it.

they need the foliage to feel safe. not enough leaves them exposed and unsafe.

i

True, that is why I already bought tickets for the Dallas repticon this weekend. Im gonna get her a laying bin there also some more foliage. :)

For now I let her sleep on my big pothos vine plant. I just move her back into her cage for the light and uv.
 
I don't think that is a burn at all but simply a scratch from something in her cage or from the transport to your place.

Thermal burns generally appear on the top of the chameleon particularly on the spine, casque, knees and elbows as those areas are closest to the offending light. There would be other areas, not that specific spot, if it was a burn. If you are concerned you can certainly put some polysporin in the mark to help it heal but it will probably do so on its own. If it changes in size or starts oozing a trip to the vet is in order. Watch that area during her next shed.

Thank you for the info.. I think you might be right. I saw some polysporin online, http://www.amazon.com/Polysporin-Fi...TF8&qid=1416619268&sr=8-1&keywords=polysporin will this be safe for her or do I need some specific for reptiles?

Im keeping my eye on it everyday.
 
When she reaches sexually maturity she can produce eggs so it's recommended that she have a place to dig in the cage so you know when she needs to lay them. Failure to do so can lead to eggbinding and death.

Overfeeding them constantly once they are mature can lead to reproductive issues, prolapses and even MBD so that's one reason to put her on a "diet" at that time. By diet...don't overfeed her and don't starve her.

Good luck with her! She's a cutey!

Im getting that laying bin this weekend, so need not to worry about it :)
Shes on a diet from now on. No more 2x a day feeding I'm narrowing it down to once a day.

I thank you guys for the reminder though and the advises given :)
 
I just started on giving her some small dubia roaches and repti worms combo. My plan is to feed her 12 small dubia roaches and 5 medium repti worms. Will that be a suitable diet for her age and size, with egg binding prevention in mind?

Also Im planning to take her to the vet soon, preferable before thanks giving. Any list of recommended vets? Thank you :)
 
Thank you for the info.. I think you might be right. I saw some polysporin online, http://www.amazon.com/Polysporin-Fi...TF8&qid=1416619268&sr=8-1&keywords=polysporin will this be safe for her or do I need some specific for reptiles?

Im keeping my eye on it everyday.

Yeah that stuff. You can find it at your local grocery or drug store as well. Most even have a store brand which is cheaper. There are different ones like triple antibiotic or heal fast formulations, but all you need is the plain old regular kind. On top of that, Polysporin is a good thing to have in your reptile first aid kit.

In your situation it is probably not necessary to use but it won't hurt if you are at all concerned. Just apply a small dab with a q-tip.

I just started on giving her some small dubia roaches and repti worms combo. My plan is to feed her 12 small dubia roaches and 5 medium repti worms. Will that be a suitable diet for her age and size, with egg binding prevention in mind?

Also Im planning to take her to the vet soon, preferable before thanks giving. Any list of recommended vets? Thank you :)

I'll let someone else answer the food amount question. I haven't kept Veileds in a long time and I haven't cut back on the amount of feeders I give to my female Carpet Chameleons but I don't necessarily overfeed my animals either.

Here is a list for Reptile Veterinarians in America:
http://arav.allenpress.com/arav/findavet

We also have a thread going on member recommended vets:
https://www.chameleonforums.com/area-area-country-vet-list-32880/

Squeaky looks good! Have fun with her!
 
Thank you Trace and for everyone that helped out! Its great to know that there are people here to help provide a great living environment for chameleons. I appreciate everyone.

P.S. This might be out of topic and random but, how do you attach a pic to your name in this forum? Ive been searching all over my profile but can't seem to find that option.
 
P.S. This might be out of topic and random but, how do you attach a pic to your name in this forum? Ive been searching all over my profile but can't seem to find that option.

Oh that's easy too. At the top left of every page underneath the logo is a link called UserCP. Click it. In the page that opens, there is a link in the left column menu that says Edit Avatar. Click it and follow the instructions. You can upload a photo from the internet or directly from your computer.
 
Oh that's easy too. At the top left of every page underneath the logo is a link called UserCP. Click it. In the page that opens, there is a link in the left column menu that says Edit Avatar. Click it and follow the instructions. You can upload a photo from the internet or directly from your computer.

Alright! Sweet as you can see it worked!
 
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