A few questions.

Nal0114

Member
So since I had to replace my mister because it broke. Do you guys add reprisals water supplement to the mister water?

2. This powder was recommended to me because Jade is picky. Finger’s crossed 🤞 she will eat her food with it. How long do you think before her supplement bumps go away?
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o you guys add reprisals water supplement to the mister water?
What is reprisals water supplement? I’m guessing it’s a typo or autocorrect of ReptiSafe…yes? What kind of water were you using in your mister that broke? Often it depends on the quality of your primary water source, which for most is city water or well water. For example, I’m on city water and even if it is safe, it tastes terrible. I use a simple water filter for my and my dog and cats drinking water. For the chameleons I make my own reverse osmosis water to prevent mineral build up clogging/killing the mist kings. The turtle also gets primarily reverse osmosis water for his water changes, but if I run short, I’ll use tap water with the ReptiSafe.
 
🤦🏼‍♀️🤦🏼‍♀️yes reptisafe. We have city water. I add reptisafe to it I bought a mistking and it started leaking everywhere so I’m waiting on my warranty replacement.

Also, what about in the fogger? I don’t treat that water.
 
The repashy calcium plus LoD would only be used 2 times a month say the 1st and the 15th. Buy the repashy Supercal NoD for your calcium without D3 that you would use at all other feedings. This one too is very very fine and not like the white reptical calcium that overcoats feeders.
 
The repashy calcium plus LoD would only be used 2 times a month say the 1st and the 15th. Buy the repashy Supercal NoD for your calcium without D3 that you would use at all other feedings. This one too is very very fine and not like the white reptical calcium that overcoats feeders.
But it says to use at every feeding? Why do it twice monthly?
 

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But it says to use at every feeding? Why do it twice monthly?
Often you are going to find that labels for reptile products do a broad guide, it is rare that they are actually species specific. This label in particular is miss leading just because of the image of the jackson's chameleon on the front. They are a species that should only receive a multivitamin like this with A and D3 once a month. For Chameleons you would never give a multivitamin like this with D3 and A every feeding. You will over dose them on fat soluble vitamins. This can lead to all sorts of health issues including edema, lack of appetite, and more. Panthers and Veiled chameleons can get this 2 times a month.

Getting her supplements and UVB on point before she gets to the point of laying a clutch of eggs or developing one is going to be extremely important females can have all sorts of reproductive issues when they do not have the correct supplementation or UVB. They pull calcium from their bones to compensate for the lack of correct supplementation and UVB. Their clutches can end up not being fully calcified eggs and they can have issues of egg binding which does kill them.
 
Often you are going to find that labels for reptile products do a broad guide, it is rare that they are actually species specific. This label in particular is miss leading just because of the image of the jackson's chameleon on the front. They are a species that should only receive a multivitamin like this with A and D3 once a month. For Chameleons you would never give a multivitamin like this with D3 and A every feeding. You will over dose them on fat soluble vitamins. This can lead to all sorts of health issues including edema, lack of appetite, and more. Panthers and Veiled chameleons can get this 2 times a month.

Getting her supplements and UVB on point before she gets to the point of laying a clutch of eggs or developing one is going to be extremely important females can have all sorts of reproductive issues when they do not have the correct supplementation or UVB. They pull calcium from their bones to compensate for the lack of correct supplementation and UVB. Their clutches can end up not being fully calcified eggs and they can have issues of egg binding which does kill them.
Ohhhhhh, got yea. I’ve given it to her 1 time when I first got it just to see if she would be interested and she didn’t seem to mind it.

Her Acadia Forrest bulb finally showed up.

So she had the linear bulb, that is 12” above her basking spot outside of her house so she can’t burn herself.

Is it normal tho for her to not be overly interested in food while shedding?

My bearded dragons never seemed to care about that they didn’t miss a meal
But she hasn’t been too stoked on her crickets since her shed started.
 
Ohhhhhh, got yea. I’ve given it to her 1 time when I first got it just to see if she would be interested and she didn’t seem to mind it.

Her Acadia Forrest bulb finally showed up.

So she had the linear bulb, that is 12” above her basking spot outside of her house so she can’t burn herself.

Is it normal tho for her to not be overly interested in food while shedding?

My bearded dragons never seemed to care about that they didn’t miss a meal
But she hasn’t been too stoked on her crickets since her shed started.
So how far do you have the linear uvb? 12 inches would be too far away with a 6% arcadia bulb. You want 8-9 inches from bottom of fixture to the branch with the screen top of the cage in between. This will put her in the correct UVI level. They can not burn themselves with these UVB bulbs. It is the heat bulbs you have to be extremely careful with placement and wattage to avoid thermal burns.

Some do not eat when shedding.
 
So how far do you have the linear uvb? 12 inches would be too far away with a 6% arcadia bulb. You want 8-9 inches from bottom of fixture to the branch with the screen top of the cage in between. This will put her in the correct UVI level. They can not burn themselves with these UVB bulbs. It is the heat bulbs you have to be extremely careful with placement and wattage to avoid thermal burns.

Some do not eat when shedding.
Well I have to move her branches up a hair then. But she is definitely toasty. She came running to her calciworms and when she ran across my hand I could feel she was significantly warmer
 
Well I have to move her branches up a hair then. But she is definitely toasty. She came running to her calciworms and when she ran across my hand I could feel she was significantly warmer
Watch her temps though. Basking should be no hotter than 78-80. Too much heat and too much food makes for a really large clutch of eggs. This you really want to avoid as they can have serious complications and shorter lives.
 
Watch her temps though. Basking should be no hotter than 78-80. Too much heat and too much food makes for a really large clutch of eggs. This you really want to avoid as they can have serious complications and shorter lives.
Her basking area sits at about 77-78. Her appetite is picking out she ate some crickets and some worms today
 
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