“Pinkie-Pie”

Cham-Glam2016

New Member
New dad for Cham “Pinkie-Pie” I’ve been building a habitat for the little Cham. I’ve used white-furniture pine, that I sealed in foodsafe beeswax. All the foliage is real and researched, minus some twisting vines, and some of the foliage wrapped around the vines.
I have two lighting systems, due to the habitat being 6ft 7in. I’m using 100watt UVA and lower UVB, with an addition of a lunar bulb. The bottom is sealed with both good safe beeswax, but also flex seal tape, then covered in 2-6mil plastic construction bags and then newspaper and plants.
All the hardware has been sealed with the same food safe beeswax.
The plants in are Pothos, two of them, one large and one small, Yucca tree, creeping fig, hibiscus and various-sterile moss varieties to aid in both adhesion and humidity levels, all rinsed and re-planted with organic soil.
The whole installation piece has been allowed to air out for a week, then sealed with the beeswax.
I’ve used animal-proof screen for the surrounding walls, but a thicker guage aluminum for the top. The top has a modified basket hanger hook, to hold the lights above. I bought the Reptizoo Mister, so far, not impressed, but I need to tweak a few things on it, and waiting on some missing parts from the company, also a fogger and I must multiple times a day. I have a humidity guage and temperature guage as well. He has lots of hiding spots and climbing area, some vertical. I’ve been consuming as much info on my little man since he chose me at the store. His colors are beautiful, and he greets me like a puppy for green-hornworms, they’re his favorite. Any info and opinions that improve “Pinkie-pie’s” life are accepted graciously.
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Hi and welcome to the forum. For the best feedback, fill-out the form underneath (just copy / paste) and experienced members will review your husbandry and give feedback / advise.
The thing I can already say is, put in more horizontal branches / vines and plants. You give your nice looking fella massive space, let him use it.

Chameleon Info:

  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:

  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:

  1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
  2. Photos can be very helpful.
 
Welcome to the forum.
New dad for Cham “Pinkie-Pie” I’ve been building a habitat for the little Cham. I’ve used white-furniture pine, that I sealed in foodsafe beeswax.
What species is “Pinkie-Pie”? Nevermind... I see him in one of the pics. :)

You mention this beeswax several times. Is this some kind of finishing product that contains beeswax, or are you using pure beeswax? If the latter, how do you apply it?

All the foliage is real and researched, minus some twisting vines, and some of the foliage wrapped around the vines.
Ideally, there should be no exceptions; all plants, foliage, vines, etc. should be live. ;)

I have two lighting systems, due to the habitat being 6ft 7in. I’m using 100watt UVA and lower UVB, with an addition of a lunar bulb.
What are the other dimensions of the enclosure?
UVA shouldn't be necessary with a household basking bulb.
What kind of UVB are you using? Most recommend a T5HO linear fluorescent—5.0 or 6%—running the width of the enclosure. A fixture with a mirrored reflector is also recommended.

The whole installation piece has been allowed to air out for a week, then sealed with the beeswax.
I'm confused. If beeswax was the only sealer/finish, what was there to air out?

I have a humidity guage and temperature guage as well.
I can't see these in the pics. They should be digital with probes—not analog/dial types, which are notoriously inaccurate.

He has lots of hiding spots and climbing area, some vertical. I’ve been consuming as much info on my little man since he chose me at the store. His colors are beautiful, and he greets me like a puppy for green-hornworms, they’re his favorite. Any info and opinions that improve “Pinkie-pie’s” life are accepted graciously.
Hornworms are fine as a treat; not so much as a staple.
See: https://www.chameleonforums.com/care/images/ for feeder & gutloading charts/references.

I agree with Sonny13. A few more horiontal branches would be nice for Pinkie-Pie.
Filling out the husbandry form will also help catch any areas that might need tweaking. ;)
Overall, things appear to be looking pretty good.
 
I applied the beeswax, the same good grade 100% beeswax, and I basically colored the whole thing, several layers, just to protect the from moisture. The habitat is 6.7ft x 3ft x 3ft. I’m using a Reptizoo with 100watt blue bulb, night bulb (fluorescent) and with the Thrive I’m using 100 watt bulb with the widest spectrum I could get, and a lunar bulb that mimics the moonlight.
I absolutely hate the mister, the new one arrived today, but I’m so tempted to send back and upgrade further. I must his habitat multiple times a day.
Also, that makes sense about hornworms being treats and why he greets me like an eager puppy. He gets really-really excited!! The humidity guage is digital and midway down, closer to the plants and trees. The hibiscus just arrived, been wash and now drying.
I also let the habitat air out because I was nervous that it may other him, just being overly cautious.
 
I applied the beeswax, the same good grade 100% beeswax, and I basically colored the whole thing, several layers, just to protect the from moisture. The habitat is 6.7ft x 3ft x 3ft. I’m using a Reptizoo with 100watt blue bulb, night bulb (fluorescent) and with the Thrive I’m using 100 watt bulb with the widest spectrum I could get, and a lunar bulb that mimics the moonlight.
I absolutely hate the mister, the new one arrived today, but I’m so tempted to send back and upgrade further. I mist his habitat multiple times a day.
Also, that makes sense about hornworms being treats and why he greets me like an eager puppy. He gets really-really excited!! The humidity guage is digital and midway down, closer to the plants and trees. The hibiscus just arrived, been wash and now drying.
I also let the habitat air out because I was nervous that it may other him, just being overly cautious.
 
The habitat is 6.7ft x 3ft x 3ft.
Good size! :)

I’m using a Reptizoo with 100watt blue bulb, night bulb (fluorescent) and with the Thrive I’m using 100 watt bulb with the widest spectrum I could get, and a lunar bulb that mimics the moonlight.
I'm not familiar with some of those. Most folks here break lighting down into 3 basic categories:
  • UVB—a T5HO fluorescent running full width of the enclosure is most often recommended. Fixture should have an integral mirrored reflector (many of which fixtures are made by the same OEM anyway).
  • Basking—old-fashioned household incandescent (NOT LED) is best, followed by incandescent flood (NOT SPOT), then Halogen flood (NOT SPOT), then ceramic heat emitter (CHE). LEDs will not produce sufficient heat for basking.
  • Plant lights—LEDs DO make the best plant lights; you want one that will penetrate deep into the enclosure to reach the plants that are lower down. An excellent one is:
    https://www.sansiled.com/70w-led-grow-light-full-spectrum.html
Any kind of light at night is contraindicated:
Give chameleons as dark of a sleeping area as possible.
https://chameleonacademy.com/basics-chameleon-lighting/
One place where I disagree with the above link is where it says:
Today, the best source of light, as far as efficiency, is in the form of T5 high output fluorescent lights. These are the most effective bulbs commonly available for providing light for vision.
IMO, the best/most efficient source of light for vision is also the best/most efficient source of light for plants—full-spectrum LED plant lights (e.g. link under Plant lights above).

Much discussion about nighttime lighting in the archives as well:
https://www.google.com/search?clien...leon+night+light+site:www.chameleonforums.com

Also, that makes sense about hornworms being treats and why he greets me like an eager puppy. He gets really-really excited!!
If you haven't come across it yet, superworms are another treat to feed sparingly. They have a fairly high fat content, and can be "addicting" for some lizards. No idea why. I have a bearded dragon who got addicted to them; I had to starve him for a couple of weeks to get him off them. :eek:
 
Yeah, so Pinkie-Pie was eating 4-8 medium green hornworms a day, I’ve cut him back a bit. I feed gut loaded crickets, super worms, fruit flys, mealworms sometimes, wax worms at times. He’s so spoiled!!!
 
Good size! :)


I'm not familiar with some of those. Most folks here break lighting down into 3 basic categories:
  • UVB—a T5HO fluorescent running full width of the enclosure is most often recommended. Fixture should have an integral mirrored reflector (many of which fixtures are made by the same OEM anyway).
  • Basking—old-fashioned household incandescent (NOT LED) is best, followed by incandescent flood (NOT SPOT), then Halogen flood (NOT SPOT), then ceramic heat emitter (CHE). LEDs will not produce sufficient heat for basking.
  • Plant lights—LEDs DO make the best plant lights; you want one that will penetrate deep into the enclosure to reach the plants that are lower down. An excellent one is:
    https://www.sansiled.com/70w-led-grow-light-full-spectrum.html
Any kind of light at night is contraindicated:

One place where I disagree with the above link is where it says:

IMO, the best/most efficient source of light for vision is also the best/most efficient source of light for plants—full-spectrum LED plant lights (e.g. link under Plant lights above).

Much discussion about nighttime lighting in the archives as well:
https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=chameleon+night+light+site:www.chameleonforums.com


If you haven't come across it yet, superworms are another treat to feed sparingly. They have a fairly high fat content, and can be "addicting" for some lizards. No idea why. I have a bearded dragon who got addicted to them; I had to starve him for a couple of weeks to get him off them. :eek:
Thank you so much!! I really appreciate all the info, and his habitat really seems to give home more comfort. I just wanted to make a miniature rainforest for him to feel comfort and safe.
 
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