I am keeping a WC male and female of this species, each in its own 15x15x30
enclosure. Both enclosures are “bioactive” and densely planted with tradescantia, horsehead philodendron, monstera adansonii, and begonia thelmae. The philodendron in particular provides a great vining, climbing, drinking, and eating platform.
I keep them in my basement in the Mid Atlantic area. My basement temps
average around 70 degrees in summer and 60ish in winter. I do not supply a basking light, as the lighting from a dual t5 fixture keeps “basking” temps in the mid 70s. Ambient temps in the remainder of the enclosure are low 70s. Overnight temps are low to mid 60s in summer, 60 or lower in winter. Humidity in my basement is naturally around 40-50%. With daily misting (morning and evening), humidity ranges between 50-90% , with 50% being the lows in the daylight hours following misting. An overnight fogger is typically used, as well, which not only helps with nighttime temp drops, but raises humidity to near 100%.
I supplement with calcium every feeding on appx half of the feeders, and alternate d3 and mv every 3 -4 weeks on a few feeders. They are fed a variety of insects - newly hatched mantids, extra small/small silkworms, small bsfl, black soldier flies (bbf might be too large, havent tried), micro superworms, small meadow katydids, xsmall dubia, 2-3 week crickets, phasmids, and xsmall hornworms. Fruit flies are too small to be worthwhile for adults, but they do seem to enjoy the occasional buffalo beetle. Have not tried bean beetles, yet. Feeders are typically .5” or smaller, depending on girth. Phasmids are usually rather slim and soft, so up to 1” is still manageable for thin species. Newly hatched mantids are a great feeder, and I hatch them directly in the enclosures. The mantids are usually devoured within 2-3 days. Number of feeders offered varies from 4-8 depending on feeder type and their appetite. They are fed 3x a week. Interestingly, they seem to use their mits on occasion to grasp the insect they are eating, while eating it.
They stress and show signs of overheating (gaping, turning white-ish) at 80 degrees of higher.
Typically, the male is a rusty brown color with a bright green spot on its side, and a green tint on his front legs. When frightened, he will turn very light colored (almost white), with a faint black contrast between his scales, and a dark green spot in the center of his sides.
The female is typically bright green with red on the top of her head. On occasion she will display white spots along her body, and occasionally will have small lavender colored spots along the edge of her red head. She’s quite small, so it is difficult to spot the purple without a camera. I have not noticed a trend in her colors when gravid, frightened, angry, etc.
My female Lucy was gravid when I acquired her. She was quite small, and I was unsure if she was gravid. Her coloration and activity level were not much different then her regular activity. She laid 9 fertile eggs, which are currently incubating (as of 9/2020). Eggs were laid on 5/18/20 and are expected to hatch around 12/18/20.
Update: The first egg cracked open on 12/6 - just shy of the 7 month mark. I did not notice any "sweating" or warning signs in advance. The first baby's tail was exposed first, no its head. Still waiting on it to emerge, which it is hopefully able to do successfully on its own. The other eggs have not yet hatched as of 12/7.
Update 12/8: Its been 2 days since the first egg cracked up, and the chameleon is still alive, but still "tail out." Half of the eggs have shrunk in size over night. They lost half their size in about 18 hours, telling me that babies will be on the way soon.
Here you'll notice the eggs at the bottom left, which have shrunk in size and are about half the size of the others. I did not notice the "sweating" on the eggs, but that is what is happening here. The change in size happened overnight.
Here you can see the size of the first egg that cracked open, compared to the others, with the tail still hanging out.