I took a few pictures of my four month old male veiled's spurs for you. They are slightly blurry but he apparently hates the camera.. I only got bit once though ;)
I would try a day in your big egg laying container (like the one above). It can't hurt. Just don't disturb her! It can be tempting, but it can also cause her to abandon laying, become eggbound and die :(
Good luck with her!
The sticky traps made to catch mice work great at catching crickets. The pre-baited ones have a sweet smell that attract the crickets. They are fairly cheap too. I get 3 packs of them at the dollar store for a buck :) Shop-vac works well too.. just vacuum them up.
Sheesh that girl is MASSIVE! Is she still eating and drinking well?
I think that maybe I would go ahead and put her in her egg laying chamber and leave her for a day, completely undisturbed, perhaps she'll start digging then.
Wow!
Aww.. poor girl. I hope she pulls through. It is good that you are taking her to the vet.
Have you looked over your husbandry to be sure that something there isn't causing her repeated URIs? Poor ventilation, standing water that allows bacteria to breed, too frequent mistings, basking...
If your humidity in your cricket container is too high, they will smell really bad and turn black and mushy when they die. This can also happen if their egg crates are getting wet from coming in contact with their water source. I screened 2 sides and the top of my cricket container and it...
You actually need both :) The miner-all O has no D3 and is what you use most often with your chameleons. I use mine around 4 times a week. The miner-all I with D3 I use once every 2 weeks or so.
Gutloading is essential for chameleon health. Crickets are by far the most widely used feeder insect and are easy to gutload. Roaches, superworms, mantids, flies and moths are all also used. Just think of the insects as a container for mutrition for the chameleon.. whatever you feed the...
For my little ones I have screened cages that are 36'x18'x18'. These work pretty well until they are big enough to hunt their food a little better and allows me to free range insects and still be able to keep track of how much they are eating.
For a baby chameleon, up to 5 months or so, a smaller cage is recommended. If the cage is too large, they have a hard time finding food and you will have a harder time monitoring their food intake. After the 5 month mark, you can move them into their adult cage. I actually think a 3x3x4 cage...
haha.. i read the post and was like "nice.. free roaches sounds great" then i re-read it.. then again.. thinking maybe i just missed it.. but no URL! hehe!
Sure looks gravid to me! That flap of skin by her front right shoulder is odd looking though.. not saying it isn't normal.. i have no idea.. but not something I have seen on any of my females.
Make sure that you are giving her plenty of calcium and keeping her hydrated and that you have a...
You chameleon may be darker because she is not getting high enough temperatures and she may be stressed out.
Do you have a cage for her? You showed her out loose in the house. Chameleons need temperature gradients to increase or decrease their body temperatures when they feel the need...
Severe infection has a horrible smell. Have you ever had a root canal on an infected tooth? Or been around anything like that? It has a dead fish odor to it. That may be what you are smelling, but is just my guess.
Is the smell coming from his enclosure? If so, be sure that you do not...
I dunno if I would put neosporin IN his eyes or even around them. it isn't recommended for use in human eyes and probably shouldn't be used in chameleon's eyes either.
http://www.pfizerch.com/product.aspx?id=364
I would try a few long showering sessions to see if it will help clear his eyes...