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This care is basically wrong. You've been overdosing him with D3 which can lead to musculoskeletal and metabolic health problems. The correct dusting schedule (even when a juvenile BTW) is to dust with plain calcium (no D3) daily. Dust with calcium WITH D3 and also a herp multivitamin once every...

IMHO, bigger is best once your cham is grown. It provides more space for bigger bushier plants, more climbing space, more ability to provide heat and humidity gradients, space for dripper dishes, lay bins, feeder containers, or other things you might want to put inside. Can you request the...

I would still have them do a basic fecal float test even if they say they don't do them for reptiles. I don't think the procedure is any different than it would be for a dog/cat, but identifying the species of parasite might be. Many parasites are so common the species of the host may not...

I've often used tree branches from my yards for cham cages. My cages were BIG and no perches or branches that fit them were available in stores. Depends on the tree species and the condition of the branch. You don't want to use green wood of resinous species like spruce, pine or cedar due to the...

If you are combining Herptivite and Reptivite together you ARE doubling the dose of D3 per unit of dust. You are getting some from both products every time you combine them in your cup. Then, once you have mixed them, the vitamins are interfering with each other and degrading over time. FWIW, an...

OP I'm also confused about your dusting schedule. I suspect there's a language problem making this harder. The way you wrote about it, sounds as if you make a mix of all those dusting products and then dust the feeders with that mix once a week. If that is correct, you ARE overdosing Beta...

And, if you like the sound, put it in a waterproof container right outside the cage.

He may not be able to touch the bulb but depending on how close any perches are he may get so get so close that he still gets burned by the heat. You should measure the temperature anyplace he can sit that is close to the bulb while the light is on to make sure it isn't too hot. Watch the...

Congrats! Moderate temps, good hiding places, good air quality/cleanliness, and easy access to water. Tiny ones like these can get stressed out and dehydrate really fast!

As the burned dead tissue starts sloughing or breaking away the raw edges of the remaining live tissue may bleed. He might have bumped it on something while climbing around. The antibiotic cream will help prevent infection, but if it continues to bleed and you see the area swelling, you may need...

What do you mean by "he hasn't had water in a while"??? If your cage isn't set up for a cham, the waterfall won't make up for that. Your cham may not learn to drink out of the waterfall even if is IS kept perfectly clean. Most chams don't. If you don't have enough plants, get them! Even fakes...

Sorry folks, here's some basic biology 101. An insect (or any other animal for that matter) that's "gutloaded" only stays that way until they poop! Gut contents are gone after that. To keep insects worth anything you have to keep FEEDING THEM a healthy diet.

Watch the temps carefully, especially at night. The cage floor seems very warm. Not much gradient. They need a significant cool down at night. The lighting may keep it too warm and dry the cage out too fast during the day. If all the water droplets from your rain system dry out too fast the...

The priority right now is a vet. You have an urgent situation. If she doesn't get veterinary support she may not survive long enough for changes in your husbandry to matter. If she is eggbound (and she may well be because of her malnutrition and MBD) she can't lay her eggs properly even if she...

Sure. They won't tend to use a twig that is uncomfortable or hard to grip. Branches that are too small can also be too weak to hold the cham's weight. You want a variety of branch sizes. It helps exercise the muscles in their feet and helps keep the tips of their claws trimmed down.

No heat pad under the cage. From what you've written so far it sounds as if you've gotten some poor husbandry information. Be aware that much of what someone at Petco told you (or sold you) may be wrong. There is much better information in the veiled caresheet and husbandry articles located...

You cham can get burned even if they don't touch anything directly. If it sits too close to a heat source too long (such as a basking lamp bulb) their skin can easily be seriously damaged.

Her diet and supplementation are basically inadequate. I looked at your other thread. You've already heard that her setup is as well. She's in big trouble because of all this. You will need an experienced reptile vet ASAP!! You'll also need to change almost all aspects of her husbandry if she's...

Yes, he'll probably be fine. As long as he can bask in correct temps the next morning he should be OK. Low temps happen in nature too. If this happens again I wouldn't panic and try heating him up too fast. You could accidentally burn him.

What does the gum at that spot look like? Get him to gape or gently roll his outer lip up and look at it. If the gum is reddened, swollen, discolored could be stomatitis (mouth rot). It could also be a piece of shed or remains from a feeder stuck there too.