Surely you can see that there is a few hours guaranteed between consumption and evacuation (eating and pooping) for every worm and insect. This is why gut loading is time sensitive. You don’t let enough time go by for them to poop it out.
The isolation prevents the crap shoot. Those bugs are guaranteed to have eaten the gutload in the hours before becoming breakfast, whereas just opening the container and choosing bugs is rolling dice.
However, you are free to believe whatever you like. Perhaps I am wrong. It doesn’t really matter.
That’s interesting. The term gutload usually means the items are still in the stomach of the insect undigested. This would require you to feed them these items within 8 or at most 12 hours of feeding them to the chameleon. If you feed the chameleon in the early morning, this means an overnight...
Definitely morning. So the routine is to isolate the feeders selected for the next meal and give them their gutload overnight and then dust them and put them in the feeder cup/ or free roaming the cage in the morning first thing. This should give you at least a half hour before you leave the...
Just browsing the media section for a moment, I found one example of a frame within the cage real quick: https://www.chameleonforums.com/media/temp-enclosure-top.48672/
There are a few different ways. You can use fishing line for lighter things like vines. You can use thumb tacs and push pins to put in to the ends of beams/rods through the mesh to secure it without damaging the screen. The most popular way seems to be to make a frame within the cage out of...
In most enclosures, just a foot or two of space between them is enough to allow the chameleon to choose between them. I had not considered how the window would affect the chameleon’s movements though. I will definitely do a search here on the forums for free range setup discussions. Great idea
Foggers seem to be a point of debate among enthusiasts. I was on the reddit forums and the mods insist that foggers cause lung infections. What do you guys think about their use in chameleon enclosures?
I would suggest putting the basking bulb and uvb bulb in different places, separate from one another. You don't want your chameleon needing to bake himself everytime he needs to get some sunlight. The basking bulb is for thermal regulation and the uvb is for life but he shouldn't need to heat...
So every chameleon has a different personality. Some chameleons beg to be picked up every time they see you and others it’s less often. This is for a variety of reasons and basically there isn’t always rhyme and reason to it. FLchams.com is basically one of the best breeders in the world right...
This looks like a really cool start. It seems you are going to have real trouble keeping this area warm enough. He has a regular enclosure right? Is this just a play area?
In general it’s better to avoid the red bulbs as they can cause vision issues and sometimes burns. Better to use a plain...
Also it helps to bake the vermiculite at the highest temperature your oven can handle for a while. This fully sterilizes it and reduces the risk of mold.
They are the stinky-mouth chameleons? When threatened they sling stinky goo from sacks on the corners of their mouths all over the place. Don't think these guys will make good pets.
From the article
"Threatened individuals of T. conirostratus (both sexes and juveniles) would open their mouths...
Are you rewarding him in some way for being social? Does coming to you mean he gets to climb on a real tree in the house or have some special treat bug he likes to eat (superworms?) or something? Are there animals or fast moving kids around?
Edit: Also sometimes they need a little...