panthercross
New Member
can you please write what kind of dust supps do you use and when. every detail please i'm so confused everyones telling me different things my guy is one year old
can everyone post their dusting schedule need help
- Thread starter panthercross
- Start date
panthercross
New Member
whats the minerall indoor?
tyler
New Member
Dust with plain calcium without D3 and Phos daily or every other day, I use Rep-Cal.
Dust with Calcium w/ D3, 2 times a month, I use Rep-Cal w/ D3.
Dust with multivitamin, 2 times a month aswell, I use Herptivite.
I use the Regular calcium everyday and every monday I switch between the D3 and Herptivite.
Dust with Calcium w/ D3, 2 times a month, I use Rep-Cal w/ D3.
Dust with multivitamin, 2 times a month aswell, I use Herptivite.
I use the Regular calcium everyday and every monday I switch between the D3 and Herptivite.
melvbrooke
New Member
I use calcium twice a week. ( Reptical without D3 ) on Sunday and wensday
I use a multivitum once a week on fridays. ( not sure the brand )
I use a multivitum with D3 twice a month. ( So the 5th and the 25th )
They also have calcium with D3 at pet stores. Probably easier to find it works too.
I use a multivitum once a week on fridays. ( not sure the brand )
I use a multivitum with D3 twice a month. ( So the 5th and the 25th )
They also have calcium with D3 at pet stores. Probably easier to find it works too.
What Tyler said is the most popular schedule with everyone on the forums. It's what the experts will recommend. If your cham gets natural, unfiltered sunlight fairly regularly you don't need any D3, but since most are indoor year long it's good to use D3 sparingly.
carol5208
Chameleon Enthusiast
you are using two products with d3 in them if I am not mistaken. Is your Miner-all made by Sticky Tongue Farms? If so then the indoor has the d3 and the outdoor does not have the d3. Just so you are aware so you don't overdose your cham on d3.
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Here is some information that I hope will help....I realize that it includes a bit more than just the supplement schedule...but the other things all tie in with it...
Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption. Temperatures needed can vary with the species and age. For hatchling panthers I keep the temperature in the warmest area in the low 80's. For older panthers I keep it in the mid to high 80's for the most part.
Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.
Since many of the feeder insects have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects just before you feed them to the chameleon at most feedings with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it. (I use Rep-cal phosphorus-free calcium).
If you also dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it. (I use Rep-cal phos.-free calcium/D3).
Dusting twice a month as well with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while. (I use herptivite which has beta carotene.)
Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.)
Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.
Here are some good sites for you to read...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200605020...Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200406080...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://raisingkittytheveiledchameleon.blogspot.com/
http://web.archive.org/web/200601140...ww.adcham.com/
If you can't access the sites above that have the word "archive" in you can do it through the WayBackMachine.
Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption. Temperatures needed can vary with the species and age. For hatchling panthers I keep the temperature in the warmest area in the low 80's. For older panthers I keep it in the mid to high 80's for the most part.
Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.
Since many of the feeder insects have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects just before you feed them to the chameleon at most feedings with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it. (I use Rep-cal phosphorus-free calcium).
If you also dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it. (I use Rep-cal phos.-free calcium/D3).
Dusting twice a month as well with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while. (I use herptivite which has beta carotene.)
Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.)
Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.
Here are some good sites for you to read...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200605020...Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200406080...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://raisingkittytheveiledchameleon.blogspot.com/
http://web.archive.org/web/200601140...ww.adcham.com/
If you can't access the sites above that have the word "archive" in you can do it through the WayBackMachine.
sandrachameleon
Chameleon Enthusiast
What i do is contained within this blog entry:
https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/sandrachameleon/65-supplements.html
wsidepinoy
New Member
calcium without d/3 every day (lightly)
calcium w/ d3 & herpivite when i get paid (every 2 weeks)
calcium w/ d3 & herpivite when i get paid (every 2 weeks)
not sure what you guys know about supplements, but it seems like not many use repashy. It is by far the most complete supplement on the market and has been for the past few years, give it a try you won't go wrong. I still use other supplements as well to get a more well rounded diet on a rotation basis.
