ciafardo 4
New Member
i dont mean hatchlings adults and sub adults
baby panther chameleon cage setup
- Thread starter vindicatedornot
- Start date
ciafardo 4
New Member
i back this statment up with page 57 of CHAMELEONS CARE AND BREEDING OF JACKSONS,PANTHERS,VEILED AND PARSONS BY Gary ferguson,Kenneth Kalisch and Sean McKeown it states Unlike some chameleons,panthers do not seem to require vegetation for security.dodolah i dont want to be a wet blanket but panthers are just fine with a little less vegitation than other species
ciafardo 4
New Member
oh and while your at it read the caption next to the picture on page58 im not tryin to be a hardon here just your post seemed a bit condisending
desultadox
Established Member
Quadruple post ftl.
Anyway, vindicatedornot, if that IS a waterfall inside the cage, I suggest you remove it before half this forum comes knocking at your door with pitchforks and torches! I know it seems like a cool idea, but it can be bad for the chameleon in several ways. Maybe you can use that space for some more vines or plants (whether Panthers need it or not). This is one of the better new-owner-setups I've seen posted in a while, plus you seem to know about supplements and all that jazz, so get rid of that waterfall (if that's what it is) and keep up the good work!
Anyway, vindicatedornot, if that IS a waterfall inside the cage, I suggest you remove it before half this forum comes knocking at your door with pitchforks and torches! I know it seems like a cool idea, but it can be bad for the chameleon in several ways. Maybe you can use that space for some more vines or plants (whether Panthers need it or not). This is one of the better new-owner-setups I've seen posted in a while, plus you seem to know about supplements and all that jazz, so get rid of that waterfall (if that's what it is) and keep up the good work!
Chameleon Company
Avid Member
Look ...
I thought Dodolah's advice was good, looking at that cage arrangement. Secondly, while panther chameleons seem to do well in the wild in a broken forest, I think that far too many keepers do not supply enough vegetation in captivity, particularly with a new arrival. The notion seems to be to want to "see the chameleon" rather than allow it to adapt, and folks usually skimp on foliage with a new arrival so that it is more easily seen, when it is better to start with more with a new chameleon, then thin it out as the animal gets used to the new environment, usually a 1-2 week process. Frankly, in captivity, I have almost always seen panthers prefer more vegetation than what was usually provided. I think that statements such as "panthers do not seem to need as much vegetation as other species" requires a bit of context, was not appropriate to the advice Dodolah gave, and would encourage people to use less, rather than more, when more is better. Sorry
I thought Dodolah's advice was good, looking at that cage arrangement. Secondly, while panther chameleons seem to do well in the wild in a broken forest, I think that far too many keepers do not supply enough vegetation in captivity, particularly with a new arrival. The notion seems to be to want to "see the chameleon" rather than allow it to adapt, and folks usually skimp on foliage with a new arrival so that it is more easily seen, when it is better to start with more with a new chameleon, then thin it out as the animal gets used to the new environment, usually a 1-2 week process. Frankly, in captivity, I have almost always seen panthers prefer more vegetation than what was usually provided. I think that statements such as "panthers do not seem to need as much vegetation as other species" requires a bit of context, was not appropriate to the advice Dodolah gave, and would encourage people to use less, rather than more, when more is better. Sorry
vindicatedornot
New Member
I set it up on a desk. that was the first time I had set it up. And yes, that setup is from kammerflage, but my chameleon is from screameleons. I know i'm such a traitor. And NO thats not a waterfall. I think those are complete wastes of time and space. Thats just a plastic rock i put some of the vines on. Just to add a little clutter to the cage til I can get more foilage. And the Habbamist was free from my boss as a gift. (I work at a petshop) but before I buy a larger cage for him I was going to buy a more qualified misting system.
Thanks for the input everyone
Thanks for the input everyone
BocaJan
New Member
I am really amazed at the different opinions posted here about your little ambilobe. I only have one little girl (4 mos) and can tell you what I did when I first got her. She was different then my veileds so it was kind of hit or miss.
I had a 60 watt bulb for her basking light which when I put a thermometer to her basking branch was going from 95-102. WOW So, instead of moving the bulb which I thought was going to be too hard to regulate, I put a 15W bulb into my fixture. This kept her basking spot at 85-87. She seemed happy and was able to digest her food well. I have been noticing this last week that she is dark quite a bit in the morning so I exchanged her 15w to a 25w and she has now lightened up to some pretty colors. Perfect! The ambient temp in my house is 74-76 so that gives her a 10 degree higher basking temp. She has a lot of greenery by her basking spot so she can cool off if she needs to. I am amazed at how many times I have gone to check on my chams and they are all sitting there with their mouths open. I turn off the basking lamps and mist them. This usually happens in the afternoon when the sun comes through the patio doors (the cages are in front of them) and it gets pretty warm in the rep. room.
Anyway, I feel that as little babies you should not cook them with too high of temps. They don't always have enough sense to go in the leaves. Keeping chameleons in your house isn't quite the same as them being in the wild where the temps fluctuate day/night season/season. I would rather keep them at a steady daytime temp then let the heat go wildly erratic like it might in the wild. They don't have as much cover and as many places to cool down.
That is what I do and what I recommend.
vindicatedornot
New Member
updated
alrighty, here's an update for the folks that are trippin balls.
I have the cage on an elevated desk, some more foilage (fake) waiting on my boyfriends mom to transplant our hibiscus. Some more branches. And the basking spot at about 90-95 usually a steady 92/93. Any better?
alrighty, here's an update for the folks that are trippin balls.
I have the cage on an elevated desk, some more foilage (fake) waiting on my boyfriends mom to transplant our hibiscus. Some more branches. And the basking spot at about 90-95 usually a steady 92/93. Any better?
We feel that Reptivite is a far better product than Herptivite, as it contains pre-formed Vitamin A, and for all intents in purposes, the "Vitamin A" in Herptevite, as beta-carotene, is near useless to you animals. Reptivite also contains adequate calcium, and can be an "all-in-one" supplement 1-2 times per week. Enjoy !
without d3?
ciafardo 4
New Member
reptivite has d3 in it already
Chameleon Company
Avid Member
Ron,
Don't think it matters. I'm in the group that doesn't see standard D-3 supplementation, as per manufactuer's mixing, as a problem regardless of sunshine or no sunshine, because the amounts are tiny, and well below what I feel are toxic levels regardless. As to Reptivite, according to the label, the version without D-3 uses retinal acetate as the pre-formed source (synthetic vitamin A), while the "with D-3" uses fish oil, which would imply retinal palmitate, natural vitamin A. The concentrations of Vitamin A per kilo are darn near the same in either product. I do not know why Zoo-Med switches the actual ingredient, if labels are to be believed. I do know that retinal palmitate is far more difficult for the manufacturer of a powder to work with, as it is an oil-soluble compound, while acetate is crystaline. Reptivite is still head-and-shoulders better than Herptevite, and you can bank that.
Don't think it matters. I'm in the group that doesn't see standard D-3 supplementation, as per manufactuer's mixing, as a problem regardless of sunshine or no sunshine, because the amounts are tiny, and well below what I feel are toxic levels regardless. As to Reptivite, according to the label, the version without D-3 uses retinal acetate as the pre-formed source (synthetic vitamin A), while the "with D-3" uses fish oil, which would imply retinal palmitate, natural vitamin A. The concentrations of Vitamin A per kilo are darn near the same in either product. I do not know why Zoo-Med switches the actual ingredient, if labels are to be believed. I do know that retinal palmitate is far more difficult for the manufacturer of a powder to work with, as it is an oil-soluble compound, while acetate is crystaline. Reptivite is still head-and-shoulders better than Herptevite, and you can bank that.
Chameleon Company
Avid Member
Don't be too quick on the trigger Cia ...
Reptivite makes a "with D-3" and a "without D-3 version". Bank that too.
Reptivite makes a "with D-3" and a "without D-3 version". Bank that too.
ciafardo 4
New Member
your right just assumed he wanted d3 in his flintstones vite
ciafardo 4
New Member
Jim what do you think about mineral?
Chameleon Company
Avid Member
Yabba-dabba-doo !
Cia. I haven't used Mineral in a long time, so am unfamiliar with its current label. Speaking in some haste and with a broad brush, my experience with all the supplements out there is that two things make a difference (others, when stood on their heads, they look the same ... you get the analogy) .. those two things are D-3 (go with it in all applications), and more importantly, real vitamin A (not beta-carotene). To my knowledge, Reptivite is the first commonly available product (since Tetra discontinued the liquid Reptisol years ago, which was the best commercial vitamin supplement ever made) that addresses this need. We rely on real retinal palmitate here, dosed orally, but since many hobbyists will not do that, Reptivite is the stuff !
Cia. I haven't used Mineral in a long time, so am unfamiliar with its current label. Speaking in some haste and with a broad brush, my experience with all the supplements out there is that two things make a difference (others, when stood on their heads, they look the same ... you get the analogy) .. those two things are D-3 (go with it in all applications), and more importantly, real vitamin A (not beta-carotene). To my knowledge, Reptivite is the first commonly available product (since Tetra discontinued the liquid Reptisol years ago, which was the best commercial vitamin supplement ever made) that addresses this need. We rely on real retinal palmitate here, dosed orally, but since many hobbyists will not do that, Reptivite is the stuff !
liquidsweetness
New Member
oops
this posted to wrong feed
this posted to wrong feed
Last edited:
mlee5457
New Member
We feel that Reptivite is a far better product than Herptivite, as it contains pre-formed Vitamin A, and for all intents in purposes, the "Vitamin A" in Herptevite, as beta-carotene, is near useless to you animals. Reptivite also contains adequate calcium, and can be an "all-in-one" supplement 1-2 times per week. Enjoy !
So are you saying only using reptivite 1-2 times a week is all they need??? Nothing else just reptivite a couple times a week?
rob blanks
New Member
This is an old thread, but I found it very helpful. I was initially worried my basking temp of 93 was going to be too hot for my 3-4 month old panther I just acquired. Thanks for being a resource guys.
chameleongalore
Member
I agree with chameleon company, I have been breeding for 10 years and always kept basking at 90 for both babies and adults with success.
