Temp at night

CryptKeeper

Member
Wondering if it’s ok for my Cham to be in low to mid 60s at night during the winter? The room he’s in has the thermostat for the house and in mid winter seems to get to about 64 at night since no one uses these areas we keep the heat off.
 
Here is the chameleon care sheet from Chameleon Academy for a panther chameleon. I keep my night time temp at 65 degrees.
 

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Also do they slow down on eating when shedding? I’ve noticed he’s shed twice and both times he wasn’t eating much or was very picky like only wanted wax worms. But he would pick throughout the day on the crickets but stopped eating the dubia roaches and super worms
 
Also do they slow down on eating when shedding? I’ve noticed he’s shed twice and both times he wasn’t eating much or was very picky like only wanted wax worms. But he would pick throughout the day on the crickets but stopped eating the dubia roaches and super worms
Yes this is normal when shedding.

You have a panther right? Temps can go as low as 65 degrees but I dont think I would go lower than that for a panther chameleon.
 
Ended up getting a small desk/space heater that connects to the thermometer/hygrometer and now keeps it between 66-67 at night if it drops below 67. I keep it outside the cage obviously and set back far enough and low enough that it’s not blowing on him and seems to work great. Just turns on and off a couple times throughout the night.
 
Ended up getting a small desk/space heater that connects to the thermometer/hygrometer and now keeps it between 66-67 at night if it drops below 67. I keep it outside the cage obviously and set back far enough and low enough that it’s not blowing on him and seems to work great. Just turns on and off a couple times throughout the night.
Glad you found a solution that works for your little guy!
 
Ambilobe Panther juvenile. He’s about 5 months old
Hi remember these guys are down to 12c ( and less in the wild ) 53 f so mid 50 s be fine ,the low temps alow us to safely put high high humidity up , without risk of uri, ( upper respiratory infection) wax worms and supers are not staple feeders, some chameleons can become addictive to them but they are high in fat , and are only reccomended as treats , dubia, and other roaches crickets, locusts, bsfl + black soldier fly pupated , are reccomended as staples ,which need to gutloaded, along with proper lights and supplements , ( I know this may sound harsh but if your cham is refusing staple feeders over treats than maybe a day no feeders, to get back on track, , he / she will not starve , feeding fatty feeders will do more damage
 
Hi remember these guys are down to 12c ( and less in the wild ) 53 f so mid 50 s be fine ,the low temps alow us to safely put high high humidity up , without risk of uri, ( upper respiratory infection) wax worms and supers are not staple feeders, some chameleons can become addictive to them but they are high in fat , and are only reccomended as treats , dubia, and other roaches crickets, locusts, bsfl + black soldier fly pupated , are reccomended as staples ,which need to gutloaded, along with proper lights and supplements , ( I know this may sound harsh but if your cham is refusing staple feeders over treats than maybe a day no feeders, to get back on track, , he / she will not starve , feeding fatty feeders will do more damage
I don’t use the wax or supers as staples. It’s crickets and roaches for most part and BSFL. And the temp I’m going off the chameleon academy recommendations.
 
I was feeding him more wax worms the other week simply bc my order wasn’t here yet but had crickets too. And only gave him like 4 a day for a few days. He doesn’t crave the super worms much. He does the wax worms though. Also used to go nuts for the horned worms but doesn’t anymore either.
 
So since my order came in I haven’t given him any wax worms. He hasn’t eaten all the BSFL but does eat a couple plus the roaches and the crickets.
 
I don’t use the wax or supers as staples. It’s crickets and roaches for most part and BSFL. And the temp I’m going off the chameleon academy recommendations.
Hi yeah
I don’t use the wax or supers as staples. It’s crickets and roaches for most part and BSFL. And the temp I’m going off the chameleon academy recommendations.
Hi yes that's good with your feeders, and chameleon academy, I'm just stating the temps in Madagascar , along with the humidity at night there , so I personally if my temp was 18 c would be happy with 75/80%, but if I was aiming for 90/ 100 % like in Madagascar I would be looking for lower temp
 
Ok gotcha yeah the humidity isn’t as high as it says on chameleon academy it’s closer to 80 at night
Yeah well I'd say that's good , like it's weighing up your night temp = humidity levels, ( most can't achieve 100% in the enclosure) but some like myself aim the fog in the direction of where our chams are sleeping. ( but also not all night constantly as we aim to naturally hydrate its also very easy to over hydrate which can be a bigger problem, or as a big problem there is a fine line , I asked Bill about this last week in the pod cast , and it really depends on your location and your enclosure setup, not all scenarios suit everyone, , that's why I follow chameleon academy and use it as a guide line , but also check madagascar vs my enclosure and try my best to have a happy medium or replicate best possible 😀
 
Yeah well I'd say that's good , like it's weighing up your night temp = humidity levels, ( most can't achieve 100% in the enclosure) but some like myself aim the fog in the direction of where our chams are sleeping. ( but also not all night constantly as we aim to naturally hydrate its also very easy to over hydrate which can be a bigger problem, or as a big problem there is a fine line , I asked Bill about this last week in the pod cast , and it really depends on your location and your enclosure setup, not all scenarios suit everyone, , that's why I follow chameleon academy and use it as a guide line , but also check madagascar vs my enclosure and try my best to have a happy medium or replicate best possible 😀
Gotcha that all makes sense. My guy sleeps closer towards the bottom below all the plants on a branch so maybe I should aim it towards him though bc he’s shielded from all the mist that’s coming down by the plants. But his droppings seem to be healthy so I guess I should keep doing what I’m doing maybe? Btw how often do they poop? My guy doesn’t seem to everyday. But like I said the poops he does seem healthy looking.
 
Gotcha that all makes sense. My guy sleeps closer towards the bottom below all the plants on a branch so maybe I should aim it towards him though bc he’s shielded from all the mist that’s coming down by the plants. But his droppings seem to be healthy so I guess I should keep doing what I’m doing maybe? Btw how often do they poop? My guy doesn’t seem to everyday. But like I said the poops he does seem healthy looking.
Poop and urates all come in one so white urates 100% hydration, little bit yellow/ orange fine lots of orange dehydration, frequency depends on factors how much they are eating, uvb temps ,humidity, supplements, gutload activity etc, so I personally couldn't answer that , no cham or situation are the same, so hopefully, someone can answer your question
 
Gotcha that all makes sense. My guy sleeps closer towards the bottom below all the plants on a branch so maybe I should aim it towards him though bc he’s shielded from all the mist that’s coming down by the plants. But his droppings seem to be healthy so I guess I should keep doing what I’m doing maybe? Btw how often do they poop? My guy doesn’t seem to everyday. But like I said the poops he does seem healthy looking.
I would suspect that every other day would be normal. Once he is an adult it varies to the chameleon. My veiled poops once a week. My panther poops once every week and a half to two weeks.

So long as he is pooping and the poop looks good and the Urate shows he is hydrated I wouldn’t worry a ton about it.
 
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