New custom terrariums by Protean Terrariums

I ordered it from corkstore.com. They call it "Semi rigid insulation cork board", but I confirmed it is the same material.

Maryland Cork Company also sells it and it comes out to being cheaper per sheet, but they only sell it in cartons that were much more than I needed. I did not want to have tons leftover, and I also wanted to use a different size on the sides.
 
Hey guys. I finally got some pictures of a few complete set ups. I'm re-doing the background on two of the enclosures, so they're not shown. I apologize for the glare, the shades didn't help much.

Before setting them up, on the racks (I later flipped them on their sides to secure the backgrounds):

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Planted (bottom right enclosure is uninhabited at the moment)

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Bd. transvaalense terrariums:

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Again, sorry for the glare, but it gives you an idea...

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K. tenuis
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K. uthmoelleri - I will of course be adding more branches...

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Hope you guys enjoy! The mist system is not hooked up at the moment, so if you see tape it is covering the mist nozzle holes. I will update everyone on further progress if interested. The plants in general were a little small but there has been limited selection due to the season, though I think they will grow fast with the lighting. I also planted some vines along the back of most of the enclosures in hopes that it will cover the back walls. I will also be adding cork to the sides in about two months once the thickness I'd like is back in stock. I'm using foam poster board between the cages since it fits extremely well, and I had it sitting around. Let me know if you have any questions.
 
They've been working very well so far. Most seem to have already adjusted including the K. uthmoelleri after being introduced about 2 days ago. I knew watering would be a breeze from keeping some in exo-terras, and I think that really is one of the biggest advantages, at least for the hobbyist. The higher humidity and such is obviously better for the animals as well. What is the humidity like in your Bd. transvaalense enclosures?
 
Those look great together. Very clean. One question though,
I'm assuming there is no drainage system, but will that seemingly little amount of hydroballs keep all well. I have no experience with hydroballs in terrariums and was wondering how well that setup works (advantages/disadvantages).Also, what specific substrate is that?
Thank you

Hardly any water will ever even reach the hydroton.
But, yes ... that is plenty.
I'm assuming the substrate is organic soil or coco fiber, or both.

-Brad
 
Brad is right. There is about 2 inches of hydroton at the bottom. The substrate is just organic soil, and the lighter colored parts are just more dry than the rest.
 
This is pretty neat. I am curious why water won't reach the hydroton? Do you mist a lot less in this sort of enclosure? I assume with the habitat being enclosed the water doesn't evaporate as quickly as it would with a screen cage.... so maybe a spritz a couple of times a day is all it takes?
 
Hi Klemins
Your vivs look great, very proffesional looking!:) Ive bee using Exoterras for many of my chams with great results I think glass can work really well. Ive 2 that are setup on a tiled floor thou which stays preety cold & was having trouble with the substrate getting too wet, so came up with the idea of a small 6"x11" heatmat underneath it has worked a treat & only increases the temps by a couple of degrees also gives even more humidity.
Heatherxxx
 
Your terrariums are look great. Makes me want to start up a reptile room again even though I have got a greenhouse I'm working on.

Absolutely post more pictures and give us some feed back about what you think. Most of the glass terrariums I have seen are in reptile rooms from Europe it is good to see glass terrariums for chameleon keeping are taking root here in the USA.
 
With your sliding glass doors is there any problem with an open space where crickets and other food insects could escape. If you do not use a feeding dish or feed by hand.
 
There is a very small gap between the doors (about 2 or 3 mm) where they overlap due to the runner spacing. The only feeders that would be able to escape are fruit flies and similarly sized insects, but I assume they can get through the screen in front too (which I expected). Crickets can't really get to the gap due to the glass and are too large anyway, and house/blue bottle flies are too large. If it were a problem, you could insert a piece of foam tape or a very thin strip of glass where there is an overlap to create a tighter seal.
 
This is pretty neat. I am curious why water won't reach the hydroton? Do you mist a lot less in this sort of enclosure? I assume with the habitat being enclosed the water doesn't evaporate as quickly as it would with a screen cage.... so maybe a spritz a couple of times a day is all it takes?

Does anyone care to address Kevin's question? I too am really interested...
 
Sorry I must have missed it. Yes, in the glass terrariums you mist much less, so the water doesn't make it to the hydroton. I currently do 1 to 2 mistings of about 45 seconds to 1 minute each in these cages and my exo-terras, which is one of the biggest benefits in my opinion. The plant leaves don't dry out nearly as quick as in screen cages and the moist soil/moss keeps the humidity high for much longer. Once you notice how long it generally takes for the soil to dry, you can adjust the misting duration and frequency.
 
charcoal, its not going to change much

I believe charcoal helps to keep the water that does remain down there cleaner. I don't think it would have too much noticeable effect one way or the other concerning the health of the plants.
I use it for the same reason it is used in aquarium filters.

-Brad

As far as the plants go, charcoal is probably irrelevant. It's potential to absorb would be quickly exhausted by water that has moved through the soil and picked up salts and other elements from the earth. At that stage, it would not have any effect on the water flowing through either.

If it were possible to change out the charcoal layer on a regular schedule, as one does with an aquarium, it might help. A fixed layer in the vivarium becomes saturated very quickly, and simply acts as a drainage layer.

It might be worth experimenting with a layer of activated charcoal that was changed every two weeks or so. I can not imagine how one would engineer this. Changing it out would be a huge disturbance to the plants.

I think it would be both easier and more effective to provide drainage from the lowest layer of hydroton. Expelling the water and allowing a bit of air will go a long way toward improving plant health.

Just my thoughts. Open to evidence others may present.
 
eisentrauti,

I had to come to Germany and the Czech Republic to see how real tanks were made. :)

-thanks for the compliments on the manufacturing.

Dan, they look amazing. Keep me posted on how they do over time.

-jason.p
Protean Terrarium Design
Lost Angeles, CA 90013
[email protected]
 
Dan - the cages looks great! Think your chams will feal good.


Jason - nice cages - hope more people realize that good manufactured glass cages are a better cage for much chamaeleons, because they ensure a higher humidity an a good microclimate.
 
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