Considering getting a panther chameleon

Pilotman800

Pilotman800

New Member
Hi, I have been considering getting a panther chameleon. I have done plenty of research and learned a lot, but I still have MANY questions that I feel need to be answered before ordering a panther. Prepare for a barrage of questions. :D

I know that chameleons are not supposed to be handled often (and I won't), but are panther chameleons generally more tolerant of handling compared to lets say... Veiled chameleons? I have found mixed answers, but i'm wondering if there is a general consensus on this.

I know that real plants are better in the chameleons enclosure, but how do you keep the plants alive? :confused:

Chameleons require a basking light and a UV light, but are you supposed to have two separate bulbs for this? And if so, should they be next to each other and on at the same time?

Baby chameleons eat more than adults, correct? Like 15 crickets a day?

Im considering on buying the panther chameleon from LLLReptile.com, however I have noticed there are different types of panther chameleons. Like the small ambilobe x ambanja, baby sambava, baby nosey be, baby ambanja, and baby blue bar ambilobe. What is the difference, and which would be best for a new chameleon owner?

A setup like the one in the link below wouldn't be acceptable, because it would need more plants, and it doesn't have the adequate basking and UV lighting, right? I want to buy the perfect setup before I get the chameleon.

http://lllreptile.com/store/catalog/animals/chameleons/-/65-gallon-chameleon-package/

Thank you for reading through this. :)
 
Hey!, welcome
I handle all my chams all the time (panthers)
2 lights, one for basking (60 w household bulb is fine), reptisun 5.0 linear, for their uv needs, anyway you want to have them at the top of your cage for optimal use. Usually we keep the basking in a corner so they can move in and out of the heat as they need.
15 is good, I also add a horn or silkworm for a treat.
The difference is locales, they are basically the same species, different colors
Can't remember the other questions! Have to go look!
 
Pilotman800 said:
Hi, I have been considering getting a panther chameleon. I have done plenty of research and learned a lot, but I still have MANY questions that I feel need to be answered before ordering a panther. Prepare for a barrage of questions. :D

I know that chameleons are not supposed to be handled often (and I won't), but are panther chameleons generally more tolerant of handling compared to lets say... Veiled chameleons? I have found mixed answers, but i'm wondering if there is a general consensus on this.--It really depends on the individual you get, some are more friendly and tolerant to handling, others are not. Think of it as a box of chocolates...you never know what you are going to get!

I know that real plants are better in the chameleons enclosure, but how do you keep the plants alive? :confused: --There are a number of plants that don't require much upkeep. for example the ficus benjamina.

Chameleons require a basking light and a UV light, but are you supposed to have two separate bulbs for this? And if so, should they be next to each other and on at the same time? --Very important the uv light you get gives out uvb light. Uva is not required. There are some lamps that will do both jobs (heat and uvb {powersun bulb}). You can also have two bulbs, 1 for heat, and 1 for uvb. Your choice as long as temp and uvb parameters are met.

Baby chameleons eat more than adults, correct? Like 15 crickets a day?--Again, this depends on the size of the crickets, but generally babies and juveniles eat more often than full grown adults

Im considering on buying the panther chameleon from LLLReptile.com, however I have noticed there are different types of panther chameleons. Like the small ambilobe x ambanja, baby sambava, baby nosey be, baby ambanja, and baby blue bar ambilobe. What is the difference, and which would be best for a new chameleon owner?-- The difference is that they are from different locales, and therefore show different color schemes. Ambilobes are more common and show a rainbow of colors. I suggest you look around the different locales and choose the one you like most.

A setup like the one in the link below wouldn't be acceptable, because it would need more plants, and it doesn't have the adequate basking and UV lighting, right? I want to buy the perfect setup before I get the chameleon.
--Most online petshops and our sponsor breeders have full set-ups for sale. look into it.

http://lllreptile.com/store/catalog/animals/chameleons/-/65-gallon-chameleon-package/

Thank you for reading through this. :)
Click to expand...

--You are welcome!
 
Thank you for the quick responses! I have another question. :D

When a chameleon "inflates" the area right below its jaw, does that mean its stressed?


I am going to sleep now, so I will read up more tomorrow.
 
Pilotman800 said:
Thank you for the quick responses! I have another question. :D

When a chameleon "inflates" the area right below its jaw, does that mean its stressed? -- Not necssarily stressed. He could just be doing it to "show off" and appear bigger to other animals


I am going to sleep now, so I will read up more tomorrow.
Click to expand...

--Get your rest. Much information to take in and consider.
 
I think I am going to get one. I am just having trouble on finding a nice kit, and I am debating on whether to get a baby blue bar ambilobe, or a baby nosey be. The rainbow colors of the ambilobe are awesome, but so is the striking blue of the nosey be!
 
Pilotman800 said:
I think I am going to get one. I am just having trouble on finding a nice kit, and I am debating on whether to get a baby blue bar ambilobe, or a baby nosey be. The rainbow colors of the ambilobe are awesome, but so is the striking blue of the nosey be!
Click to expand...

i would go for ambilobe:rolleyes: cuz im partial to deep red colors

but i have both so:p not helping lol


idkk for your first panther, (you will have more);) it should be an ambilobe, cuz you will literally be amazed by the different colors your cham will "pop" up as he gets older

for panther hameleons it takes 15-24 months to have their "permanent adult colors"

just my opinion

my avatar pic is a pic of my cham zulu...he was only 6-8 months old at that time....he is already over a year now:D they change alot
 
Oh man, your panther looks awesome! I just scrolled through your pictures. :D

You have both, right? What colors does the nosey be turn into? I think im leaning towards the ambilobe, lol. :D
 
Nosy Bes are blue.. there are some with a greenish tint and others which have a yellowish tint. The true blues are my favorite.
 
Pilotman800 said:
Oh man, your panther looks awesome! I just scrolled through your pictures. :D

You have both, right? What colors does the nosey be turn into? I think im leaning towards the ambilobe, lol. :D
Click to expand...

he is still young and already has blue bars, some red on his face and red spots on the body, he has this neon yellow/green between the barring:D its pretty cool

but with whatever you choose you will be happy, just take aot of pics as your future cham grows
 
Here's some information I hope will help you with things like supplements, gutloading, etc....
Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption.

Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.

A wide variety of insects that have been well fed and gutloaded should be fed to it.

Since many of the feeder insects we use in captivity have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects just before you feed them to the chameleon at most feedings with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it. (I use Rep-cal phosphorus-free calcium).

If you also dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it. (I use Rep-cal phos.-free calcium/D3).

Dusting twice a month as well with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while. (I use herptivite which has beta carotene.)

Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.)

Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.

Here are some good sites for you to read too...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200605020...Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200406080...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://web.archive.org/web/200601140...ww.adcham.com/
If you can't access the sites above that have the word "archive" in you can do it through the WayBackMachine.
 
I have a 2 month old female Veiled Chameleon and I handle her for a couple of minutes a day everyday and she is extremely tame and while i handle her she has never hissed at me or showed any signs of stress like changing to darker colors or opening her mouth. and she also will eat crickets out of my hand :D

It really depends on the individual chameleon, i have read on this forum that some chameleons just hate the world and get pissed when their owners even walk near them, and then i have also read that other chameleons love their owners and when the cage is opened they voluntarily walk onto their owners hands. I really hope eventually i will get to that point with my Veiled :D

And to answer your question about baby chameleons eating more than adults, my veiled is 2 months old and i will feed her 12 to 15 crickets in the morning she will finish them pretty easily, then later in the afternoon i will put 5 to 10 more crickets in the cage and she will finish those too! She is growing rapidly which is very exciting :)

Well good luck on deciding which chameleon to choose! :)
 
Thanks for all the responses and information! I am just looking for a nice cage kit that won't kill my wallet now. Im pretty sure i'm going to get an ambilobe, and possibly a nosey be later on when im experienced enough to have two. They can't be in the same cage, right?
 
Would Underground Reptiles be a good place to get a chameleon? I called and they said they could get me a baby ambilobe from 99$ to 150$. That seems like an amazing deal but I don't know if they're the best place to buy from.
 
chameleonsonly.com Liddy and Ed are great i just bought 2 babys with setups from them 45 day live stock guarantee when you buy there setup, they have everything you need and could ask for check there site out they only breed panthers no question you will find one on there gl.
 
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