The chameleon should be showing mustardy/yellow splotches if she's sexually mature, so it would surprise me if she is producing eggs.
Its already been said that your gutload and supplements need improvement. You can gutload crickets, superworms with a wide assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, celery leaves, etc.).
These same greens and veggies can be offered to your veiled along with a small amount of fruit (apples, pears, melons, berries, etc.).
Since many of the feeder insects used have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus its important to dust them before feeding them to the chameleon with a phos.-free calcium powder at most feedings.
I also dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder to ensure that the chameleon gets some D3 but without overdoing it. D3 from supplements can build up in the system and cause problems. It should be able to produce the rest of the D3 it needs from exposure to the UVB light. The UVB light should not pass through glass or plastic.
I dust twice a month with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A. Beta carotene can not build up in the system like prEformed vitamin A can but there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert beta carotene...so some people give a little prEformed once in a while. Excess prEformed vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD...so its important not to overdo it. By making sure that the vitamin powder has a beta carotene source of vit. A it leaves the owner in charge of how much prEformed is given to the chameleon.
Calcium, phos., vitamin A and D3 are important players in bone health and need to be in balance. You need to look at the supplements, what you feed to the chameleon and what you feed to the insects when you try to balance them.
Appropriate temperatures also play a part since they aid in digestion. You can use a regular incandescent household bulb in a domed hood to provide a basking area for the chameleon. I keep the basking area in the low 80's for a female veiled.
With a female veiled its important not to overfeed her once she is sexually mature so that she won't produce large clutches or have other issues.
Its also important to provide a place for her to dig to show you that she's ready to lay eggs because the signs that she needs to are sometimes subtle.
The minimum size of the (opaque) container is big enough that when empty the female fits into it with several inches to spare on all sides of her. The depth should be about 10". Once she is digging, its important that she doesn't see you watching her or she will abandon the hole.
You said you use..."Two reptiglow 5.0 tropical series 13watt bulbs...are these long linear fluorescent tubes or spiral or compact types?
You said mostly you use fake plants...with veileds its recommended that you don't use fake ones since they do eat plants sometimes. Real ones should be non-toxic and well-washed (both sides of the leaves).
Here are some good sites....
http://web.archive.org/web/20060502...rnals.com/vet/index.php?show=5.Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/20060421.../index.php?show=6.Vitamin.D3.and.Calcium.html
http://chameleonnews.com/?page=article&id=102
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://raisingkittytheveiledchameleon.blogspot.com/2007/12/keeping-female-veiled.html
http://adcham.com/
Sorry for this long post...but IMHO its important information.
BTW, she's a nice looking chameleon!
Its already been said that your gutload and supplements need improvement. You can gutload crickets, superworms with a wide assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, celery leaves, etc.).
These same greens and veggies can be offered to your veiled along with a small amount of fruit (apples, pears, melons, berries, etc.).
Since many of the feeder insects used have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus its important to dust them before feeding them to the chameleon with a phos.-free calcium powder at most feedings.
I also dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder to ensure that the chameleon gets some D3 but without overdoing it. D3 from supplements can build up in the system and cause problems. It should be able to produce the rest of the D3 it needs from exposure to the UVB light. The UVB light should not pass through glass or plastic.
I dust twice a month with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A. Beta carotene can not build up in the system like prEformed vitamin A can but there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert beta carotene...so some people give a little prEformed once in a while. Excess prEformed vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD...so its important not to overdo it. By making sure that the vitamin powder has a beta carotene source of vit. A it leaves the owner in charge of how much prEformed is given to the chameleon.
Calcium, phos., vitamin A and D3 are important players in bone health and need to be in balance. You need to look at the supplements, what you feed to the chameleon and what you feed to the insects when you try to balance them.
Appropriate temperatures also play a part since they aid in digestion. You can use a regular incandescent household bulb in a domed hood to provide a basking area for the chameleon. I keep the basking area in the low 80's for a female veiled.
With a female veiled its important not to overfeed her once she is sexually mature so that she won't produce large clutches or have other issues.
Its also important to provide a place for her to dig to show you that she's ready to lay eggs because the signs that she needs to are sometimes subtle.
The minimum size of the (opaque) container is big enough that when empty the female fits into it with several inches to spare on all sides of her. The depth should be about 10". Once she is digging, its important that she doesn't see you watching her or she will abandon the hole.
You said you use..."Two reptiglow 5.0 tropical series 13watt bulbs...are these long linear fluorescent tubes or spiral or compact types?
You said mostly you use fake plants...with veileds its recommended that you don't use fake ones since they do eat plants sometimes. Real ones should be non-toxic and well-washed (both sides of the leaves).
Here are some good sites....
http://web.archive.org/web/20060502...rnals.com/vet/index.php?show=5.Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/20060421.../index.php?show=6.Vitamin.D3.and.Calcium.html
http://chameleonnews.com/?page=article&id=102
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://raisingkittytheveiledchameleon.blogspot.com/2007/12/keeping-female-veiled.html
http://adcham.com/
Sorry for this long post...but IMHO its important information.
BTW, she's a nice looking chameleon!