Urgent help-eyes closed not eating -deteriorating

Lyrabean

New Member
Please don’t be mad at my ignorance. I am a total newbie and I don’t think I have been taking care of my veiled the proper way and he is now sick. He is 1 year old. He is fed Dubia meal worm wax worm and horn worm and gut loses crickets. His inclosure used to have a lot more plants but the plants seem to die. He has a drip system and I spray the cage. I fed him calcium but not enough(only once a week). I didn’t feed vitamins. I didn’t know I was supposed to. He just won’t move, is weak and he seems to bulge eyes from time to time and try to scratch one. Went to the vet who gave him fluids and just instructed me on vitamins. He didn’t give a vitamin shot. We drove hours to the vet. The vet seemed to think the fluid would solve the eye issue but he just deteriorating further and getting weaker. His poop sample was negative. We do not have a temperate meter in the cage. He has uva and a new uvb. The basking branch just fell there was one close to the bulbs. The vet said his tail was a little thin but didn’t think he was underweight but I kinda disagree but am not a vet. He didn’t give any instructions as to what to do if he still won’t eat. I force fed him two wax worms in reptile vitam mix today and he ate it. Do I continue to force feed? He belongs to my 9 year old son who will be very sad if he dies. We put him on the bottom because he was holding on to the mesh uo high and is so weak we were worried he was gonna fall. He sleeps all day.he seemed to have lost weight rapidly this past week. I don’t think he has hunted for his own crickets several days before he shut down. I usually hand feed m but thought he would like hunting for a bit and so I do not have the usual gauge on when he last voluntarily ate but it’s been multiple days
Plants monsters photos snake plants
I don’t know the bulbs but they are the standard dual bulbs they sell for the chameleon cage package but we’re replaced. Vitamins reptivite (just recently in the last two days)
 

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Hello and welcome, I am sorry we are meeting under such a sad situation. This is a great place to get support and help for your little guy. Please copy the form below and fill out the information while I get some experts here to help you.

In the meantime, did you see an exotic vet, specifically one with chameleon experience?

It looks like you maybe have the 'chameleon kit' for little guy. Unfortunately this kit is a death trap for chameleons and makes them very ill. Your guy needs a T5HO 5% linear UVB. This will need to be updated ASAP as the 'coil' or 'spring' UVB bulbs that come in that kit do not give off enough UVB.

He will also need a larger enclosure, the minimum required size is a 2x2x4 foot enclosure, he needs lots of branches and live plants to climb on and hide behind.

The other thing I noticed that would be helpful is his supplementing. The schedule I use that works well for my chams is feeding Monday, Wednesday, Friday 3-5 bugs dusted with calcium without vitamin D. On Saturdays is my treat bug day (or just a regular feeding) and the supplement I use on Saturday is the 1st and 3rd Saturday of each month - calcium with vitamin D, the 2nd and 4th Saturday of each month is a multi vitamin.

@kinyonga @Beman @MissSkittles - can you help give some insights?

Chameleon Info:

  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with, and what is the schedule?
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long do you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high-traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem -
 
Please don’t be mad at my ignorance. I am a total newbie and I don’t think I have been taking care of my veiled the proper way and he is now sick. He is 1 year old. He is fed Dubia meal worm wax worm and horn worm and gut loses crickets. His inclosure used to have a lot more plants but the plants seem to die. He has a drip system and I spray the cage. I fed him calcium but not enough(only once a week). I didn’t feed vitamins. I didn’t know I was supposed to. He just won’t move, is weak and he seems to bulge eyes from time to time and try to scratch one. Went to the vet who gave him fluids and just instructed me on vitamins. He didn’t give a vitamin shot. We drove hours to the vet. The vet seemed to think the fluid would solve the eye issue but he just deteriorating further and getting weaker. His poop sample was negative. We do not have a temperate meter in the cage. He has uva and a new uvb. The basking branch just fell there was one close to the bulbs. The vet said his tail was a little thin but didn’t think he was underweight but I kinda disagree but am not a vet. He didn’t give any instructions as to what to do if he still won’t eat. I force fed him two wax worms in reptile vitam mix today and he ate it. Do I continue to force feed? He belongs to my 9 year old son who will be very sad if he dies. We put him on the bottom because he was holding on to the mesh uo high and is so weak we were worried he was gonna fall. He sleeps all day.he seemed to have lost weight rapidly this past week. I don’t think he has hunted for his own crickets several days before he shut down. I usually hand feed m but thought he would like hunting for a bit and so I do not have the usual gauge on when he last voluntarily ate but it’s been multiple days
Plants monsters photos snake plants
I don’t know the bulbs but they are the standard dual bulbs they sell for the chameleon cage package but we’re replaced. Vitamins reptivite (just recently in the last two days)
Well, your entire set up is not correct you need to get a temperature gauge and hydrometer immediately I suspect he’s not getting the right amount of humidity light and temperatures more than the vitamins that’s what’s important right now . Do you have a house thermometer? You need some way to regulate his temperatures. You also need to get his lights on the schedule. Until we know what kind of conditions he’s living in. As far as heat, light and humidity. It’s going to be hard to help you. Right now we need to get his habitat correct. The UVB Bulb is not correct. It needs to be a 24 “ linear 5.0 Acadia or reptisun .
 
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This link is a kit created by a really amazing knowledgeable chameleon lady. It contains most of everything you need to have a healthy chameleon. The only other thing I would suggest getting on top of this kit is a couple more thermometers/hydrometers so that you know you are providing correct temps/humidity in a gradient for your guy.

Here you can find a care sheet that is specific for chameleons, this will help you know what temps, humidity, everything you need to care for him.
 
Well, your entire set up is not correct you need to get a temperature gauge and hydrometer immediately I suspect he’s not getting the right amount of humidity light and temperatures more than the vitamins that’s what’s important right now . Do you have a house thermometer? You need some way to regulate his temperatures. You also need to get his lights on the schedule. Until we know what kind of conditions he’s living in. As far as heat, light and humidity. It’s going to be hard to help you. Right now we need to get his habitat correct. The UVB Bob is not correct. It needs to be a 24 “ linear 5.0 Acadia or reptisun .
I do have a house thermometer. his lights are on a schedule 12 on and off. I bought the bulb u said just now but does this linear bulb needs to be purchased something to plug it into or can it be put on the cage? (without fire hazard). Will he bounce back in time if I fix these things and do I need to keep force-feeding him? the exotic vet wasn't much help. he didn't mention many of the things u are even mentioning...
 
Here is some homework for you tonight this is going to tell you what the correct perimeters are please take the time to study this care sheet and pick up the recommended supplies as quickly as possible. This is something that can’t wait .

https://chameleonacademy.com/veiled-chameleon-care/
I am on it. can I keep force feeding him in the meantime? If he his not eating, I worry by the time I get the right stuff and its up and running he won't make it. he needs to eat , right?
 
Hello and welcome, I am sorry we are meeting under such a sad situation. This is a great place to get support and help for your little guy. Please copy the form below and fill out the information while I get some experts here to help you.

In the meantime, did you see an exotic vet, specifically one with chameleon experience?

It looks like you maybe have the 'chameleon kit' for little guy. Unfortunately this kit is a death trap for chameleons and makes them very ill. Your guy needs a T5HO 5% linear UVB. This will need to be updated ASAP as the 'coil' or 'spring' UVB bulbs that come in that kit do not give off enough UVB.

He will also need a larger enclosure, the minimum required size is a 2x2x4 foot enclosure, he needs lots of branches and live plants to climb on and hide behind.

The other thing I noticed that would be helpful is his supplementing. The schedule I use that works well for my chams is feeding Monday, Wednesday, Friday 3-5 bugs dusted with calcium without vitamin D. On Saturdays is my treat bug day (or just a regular feeding) and the supplement I use on Saturday is the 1st and 3rd Saturday of each month - calcium with vitamin D, the 2nd and 4th Saturday of each month is a multi vitamin.

@kinyonga @Beman @MissSkittles - can you help give some insights?

Chameleon Info:

  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with, and what is the schedule?
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long do you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high-traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem -
yes the vet was a specialist , well, the only one in the area that sees reptiles, but frankly, I found him not to be a huge amount of help so perhaps he isn't the bests but only one within hours of driving. he is a male. he eats twice a day.i buy gut loaded from amazon crickets. his poop its normal. New York State. located in a warm room in the house next to a window. those are some things I had not answered. he is handled minimally. once a week.
 
Well, your entire set up is not correct you need to get a temperature gauge and hydrometer immediately I suspect he’s not getting the right amount of humidity light and temperatures more than the vitamins that’s what’s important right now . Do you have a house thermometer? You need some way to regulate his temperatures. You also need to get his lights on the schedule. Until we know what kind of conditions he’s living in. As far as heat, light and humidity. It’s going to be hard to help you. Right now we need to get his habitat correct. The UVB Bulb is not correct. It needs to be a 24 “ linear 5.0 Acadia or reptisun .
I ordered the hydrometer too it will be here tomorrow. I already got the bulb.
 
I do have a house thermometer. his lights are on a schedule 12 on and off. I bought the bulb u said just now but does this linear bulb needs to be purchased something to plug it into or can it be put on the cage? (without fire hazard). Will he bounce back in time if I fix these things and do I need to keep force-feeding him? the exotic vet wasn't much help. he didn't mention many of the things u are even mentioning...
Let’s get that house thermometer in the cage immediately start watching and writing down your temperatures are . yes it can be put on top of the cage. Without worry of fire issue. We will correct the heights and everything but at this moment we’re just doing emergency care .I can’t guarantee you he will bounce back. I don’t know how far gone he is. But I’ve seen some in pretty bad condition recover quite well. Fortunately veiled or a pretty hearty species. How much have you force fed him ? A little bit of nutrition to help him get boosted. But I would caution too much of that.
 
Hi and welcome. I’m so very glad that you’ve found your way here. Your little guy hasn’t been getting the much needed nutrients and you’ll need to make some major changes immediately if he’s to have a good chance at recovery. You’ve gotten some excellent advice already and all I can do is repeat what has been said. Definitely go to the link that was provided above in post #6 for the kit. It is the most cost effective way to purchase all that you’ll be needing. Unfortunately, most of what you got with the chameleon kit is either wrong or will need to be replaced. If you are force feeding him, do be very careful to aim for the very back of his throat. The airway is in the front of the mouth. One really good thing that you can do while waiting for the correct uvb to arrive is to take him outside for some natural sunlight and fresh air. Put him on a plant or something that you can carry and just sit with him outside for even just 10-15 minutes in an area that gets dappled sunlight. Direct sun is ok for maybe 3-5 minutes, but he could too easily over heat.
 
Let’s get that house thermometer in the cage immediately start watching and writing down your temperatures are . yes it can be put on top of the cage. Without worry of fire issue. We will correct the heights and everything but at this moment we’re just doing emergency care .I can’t guarantee you he will bounce back. I don’t know how far gone he is. But I’ve seen some in pretty bad condition recover quite well. Fortunately veiled or a pretty hearty species. How much have you force fed him ? A little bit of nutrition to help him get boosted. But I would caution too much of that.
I force-fed him 2 wax worms mixed with vitamins. should I do the same tomorrow or more? I will report back the temps and I will try to set up this lamp
 
Hi and welcome. I’m so very glad that you’ve found your way here. Your little guy hasn’t been getting the much needed nutrients and you’ll need to make some major changes immediately if he’s to have a good chance at recovery. You’ve gotten some excellent advice already and all I can do is repeat what has been said. Definitely go to the link that was provided above in post #6 for the kit. It is the most cost effective way to purchase all that you’ll be needing. Unfortunately, most of what you got with the chameleon kit is either wrong or will need to be replaced. If you are force feeding him, do be very careful to aim for the very back of his throat. The airway is in the front of the mouth. One really good thing that you can do while waiting for the correct uvb to arrive is to take him outside for some natural sunlight and fresh air. Put him on a plant or something that you can carry and just sit with him outside for even just 10-15 minutes in an area that gets dappled sunlight. Direct sun is ok for maybe 3-5 minutes, but he could too easily over heat.
the very back of the throat. got it. I will take him outside right away in the morning.
 
I force-fed him 2 wax worms mixed with vitamins. should I do the same tomorrow or more? I will report back the temps and I will try to set up this lamp
I’m always concerned about force-feeding. I would rather see him eat on his own. Force-feeding as a last ditch effort. I would try to get his perimeter straight and temperatures correct and some humidity going. Hydration is more important than food right now.
 
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It’s important that you know the temperatures in the cage and the basking area. The basking area needs to be at least 80F…and the cage temperature in the 70’sF during the day with a good drop in temperature over night.

As @MissSkittles ….”One really good thing that you can do while waiting for the correct uvb to arrive is to take him outside for some natural sunlight and fresh air.”

What's the vitamin powder you just started using? Does it have D3 or prEformed vitamin A in it? Does your calcium have D3 in it or is it plain, phos free calcium powder?
 
ok. should I mist him extra multiple times a day? the vet said the same but he gave him fluids and he didn't perk up at all which made me suspicious that something else was going on.
 
It’s important that you know the temperatures in the cage and the basking area. The basking area needs to be at least 80F…and the cage temperature in the 70’sF during the day with a good drop in temperature over night.

As @MissSkittles ….”One really good thing that you can do while waiting for the correct uvb to arrive is to take him outside for some natural sunlight and fresh air.”

What's the vitamin powder you just started using? Does it have D3 or prEformed vitamin A in it? Does your calcium have D3 in it or is it plain, phos free calcium powder?
I really do believes basking area is at leas 80 butt will confirm. its really really hot. and its 70 in the room for the rest of the day. will report night temps once I get the thermometer in. I started using reptivite while waiting for the other brand recommended by vet to arrive tmrw (rep ashy) . it doesn't have d3 the calcium.
 
ok. should I mist him extra multiple times a day? the vet said the same but he gave him fluids and he didn't perk up at all which made me suspicious that something else was going on.
Misting really depends on the temperatures . I would definitely do extra misting in the morning. And pay attention to see if he drinks. I would probably switch to a constant driper during the daytime and then some extra misting at the end of the day, and if possible throughout the night best time for humidity and hydration or cool temperatures . Just remember high humidity. Cool temperatures low humidity, warm temperatures. Because this too can cause issues.
 
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