Help with baby

Rosco

New Member
Chameleon Info:
Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon? I have a ambilobe male panther that's about 3 months to 4 months.

How long has it been in your care? I've had him for 9 days.

Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon? Twice a day, and I know I should limit it,but I'm trying to get him fairly used to it.

Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders? He is given 1/4 crickets that I powder coat with zoo med repti calcium every meal and have multivitamined once. I feed him in the morning at 8:30 after he's been awake for 30 mins. I give him about 8 crickets a day but somedays have been less when I gather up 5or6 off the cage bottom. I place the crickets right in his area so it's very easy for him to eat and for a few days would eat em up quick, but now he just walks over them and pays no attention to them.

Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?Repti calcium daily without d3. Repcal calcium w/d3 and repcal multivitamin once a week but alternate which one I use.

Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?I have a dropper set up. I use a exo terra mister that I spray down the cage for a minute 4 times a day. I see him drink sometimes but he seems to like licking the fake branches.


Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites? His poops are dark brown and the white or pee is white with little to no yellowing. He has had a few bowl movements that had no poop and were white goo. No parasite check up.

History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you. I bought him at the lllreptile store and brought him back home

Cage Info:
Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions? It is a screen cage from diy cages and is 2x2x4tall.

Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule? His timer goes on at 8am and off at 8pm. It's a r-zilla halogen/florescent combo fixture. I have a reptisun 5.0 bulb and a red and blue halogen but only use the red one because it's warm here.

Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps? The room is on average 78, the basking spot in it's hottest point is 94, cage bottom is 75 and the humidity has been 60-80 depending on day time. I use a zoo med gauge to read temp and humidity. The lowest at night is 68. The

Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity? During the day the humidity is about 60 but can drop to 50 and at night is about 80. I have a large live schafferla and mist 4 times a day to maintain humidity. I have a zoo med humidity gauge.

Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind? I'm using a live schafferla plant, the umbreall plant and NOT rubber kind.

Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?The cage is located by a sliding glass door and screen door that allows alot of ventilation but doesn't sap humidity away. It is in my bedroom and gets little traffic. It's 6 feet at the cage top and is 2 feet off the floor.

Location - Where are you geographically located? I'm in southern California in la Verne which borders Pomona.


Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about. My cham won't eat and at this stage he should be eating slot. He has eat plenty in the past but starting yesterday won't eat, even if the food is easily accesible. He eats about 1 or 2 but won't seem to eat more lately.


Pictures are helpful
 
I am by no means an expert, so I am hoping one of the senior team answers you but what I do see looks good EXCEPT:

What are you gutloading your crickets with? And if you have only had him 9 days he is probably getting really stressed being handled twice daily PLUS trying to get used to his new environment. I would back off a lot, give him some time to adjust. I have had my guy three weeks and I am just now starting to introduce the idea to him that I may at some point be touching him (and he has not been happy about this at all, but we are working on it!):) Also, with as big as his cage is could be hard to find food items (maybe) so you could try raising the floor a bit so he has less area to hunt. Oh and his basking temps seem a bit hot - these guys recommend mid 80's for a panther...
 
I have been gutloading with an all-in-1 feeder and then throwing in cabbage, pototates and apple. I know the temp is a little hot but he loves sitting in it and he never opens his mouth to vent. So I really don't think it's to hot considering he hasn't shown signs of it. I have a diy cage with a PVC bottom and idk how to raise the floor if that's even possible. I get about 6 crickets to stay on the high branches which he is on, but he now disregards them.
 
I would NOT pick him up. He needs time to adjust to his new home. He is a baby, in a cage that size he will need food accessible, maybe in a cup clipped to a branch near where he sits. Get some other types of feeders, silkworm. hornworms, superworms & small dubia. Make sure all prey are small to fit in his mouth. You need to work on a good gutload for your crickets. You can get lots of info here. Also VERY lightly dust the crickets, you should hardly be able to see the powder. You don't want to coat the food items, too much calcium is as bad as none. jmo
 
IMHO your basking temperature is too hot. Mid 80's would be better.

Cabbage is okay to use once in a while as a part of the gutload but dandelion greens, squash, sweet red pepper, sweet potato, carrots, zucchini, kale, collards are better.
 
I did mount a Tupperware to the cage to where he can easily access food. I also free roam crickets as well. Even with the huge cage he still finds food easy, but that's not the problem, it's he won't eat. Do you believe he is being stubborn because he feels threatened by me. I will eliminate all handling for some time. I'm worried he won't get enough nutrition. Thank you to the input and I will correct anything needed
 
try to feed him some small worms my cham loves wax worms and he is 4 months im thinking i might even be able to teach him to hand feed with them...:D
 
As far as introducing new foods, will that even likely cure his hunger strike. I know he won't eat from hand for a while, so buying worms and them not being able to stay on leaves and falling down to the bottom is my concern.
 
Yeah most chams love hornworms. The color of the hornworm is attractive to chams. They love green feeders. Try some flys. Go to mantisplace.com they sell both house & blue bottle flies. They are a great hunger strike buster. But you first need to read up on gut loading. That and water are the two most imp factors in your feeding regime. A cham is only as healthy as the feeders he/she is eatting. So if your feeding off half dead criks then your cham isnt going to be getting the nutrition he needs. Start by buying some CRICKET CRACK. That can be found by contacting forum member steve sims or tiki tiki sells it also. Then in addition have a rotation of veggies & fruits you give the feeders. (zucchini, squash, apples, oranges, romaine lettuce, etc...) If your gutloading sucks then your going to eventually see problems manifest in your chameleons health. Mpo...
 
I havent and won't be feeding anything dead. I gutload the cricket keeper and I have a separate container I use as the next day supply. I put about 8 crickets in a tupperware and then super gutload them before calcium powdering and being fed to my Cham. My cham is now shedding his skin so that's a relief and I'm hoping this was the trigger to what's been wrong. Aren't hornworms to big for a baby?
 
FRUIT FLIES!!!

Got my cham to eat after 2 stressful weeks for a new cham Mum ;) Some days he ate, then he didn't, then he did, then he didn't!!!!:eek:

Put them in the cup and they will climb out onto the branches etc....then watch him hunt!!! :D

Stop handling him, this will stress him out while he's getting used to his new environment. Plus your hand is a predator to him while he's so small. Hand feeding can help with this but at the moment I'd just let him chill. Let him settle in for a few weeks, he'll only eat when he feels safe. You have plenty of time to start handling him later so I wouldn't rush it (if he turns out to be a cham who tolerates being handled as not all will entertain the idea LOL)

Oh and baby chams can't regulate their body temps as effectively as adults so just because he isn't gaping, that doesn't mean he isn't to hot. He'd probs overheat first. For a 3-4 month old it should be about 82-83. Increase it as he gets older.

I put a post on here asking when is a suitable time to increase the basking temp and I was told by Jannb, a senior on here, to start with 80-82 for 2-3month babies then increase it by a degree each month till you reach 85-86 for a panther. Thanks Jann!! ;)
Some reccommend to have the basking temp at 90-92 for adults but I'd always be wary of it being too hot!

Hope that helps, I'm just going from experience :)

PS
I'm a total sucker for baby ambilobe pics!!! Would you mind? :D
 
My cham is now shedding his skin so that's a relief and I'm hoping this was the trigger to what's been wrong. Aren't hornworms to big for a baby?

May have been the reason, Simba is a right grump when he's shedding....gotta admit they do look itchy tho, so can't blame em.

I'd still lower your basking temp for now tho ;) .

As I'm in the UK and can't get horn worms I'm not sure if you can get them in different sizes as you can with silk and butterworms, but if they are the big green caterpillar thingys, then yes I'd say they'd be too big for now but OK for when the lil man is bigger. Does he have a name?

Is he showing much colour after his shed? PICS, PICS, PICS PURRLLEEEEEEASE!!!!!:D
 
i will check out the website. My chams name is Turco, which i think will fit him. i lowered the basking spot but i will be ordering a lower wattage. about the handling i havent done it since yesterday morning. he is almost fully shed and seems really energetic. and Kat i will get some pics and send em to you when hes done shedding, unless you want him transitioning into new skin. hes just starting to show color around his eyes and throat :D
 
i will check out the website. My chams name is Turco, which i think will fit him. i lowered the basking spot but i will be ordering a lower wattage. about the handling i havent done it since yesterday morning. he is almost fully shed and seems really energetic. and Kat i will get some pics and send em to you when hes done shedding, unless you want him transitioning into new skin. hes just starting to show color around his eyes and throat :D

Aww bless lil Turco. It's fab watching them develop their colour ;)

Take your time with him....it'll really pay off letting him settle in.

Oh I'm so excited about the pics!!! Post em on this thread for all to see :D
 
Here is lil turco, and he looks kinda pink in the photo but this is the most pink i have ever seen him, so the iphone wont do him justice.
 

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No way now, hes starting to get used to me :) Now when i pull out the mister he runs towards me and starts lapping water off of the leaves.
 
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