FINALLY!

Lizzie The Chameleon

Lizzie The Chameleon

Avid Member
Hey everyone! FINALLY today i am going to order all cage decor, misting systems, lighting fixtures, etc for my 2nd cham. I have been waiting for this for a long time and we would have done it sooner if my dog hadn't been attacked by a coyote and had to get 43 stitches, so that costed a lot and we had to wait and save up to make sure we had enough money saved for vet bills etc. Once we get the cham, we are going to take it to the vet ASAP to make sure it's healthy within the time we could take it back to make sure there are no health issues with it. I can't wait! :D
 
and also if it is a 3-6 month old panther, what would be the best feeder options and how many each day? I know that how much they are fed should be reduced to every other day once they hit 6-8 months, but i'm just wondering what would be best. Im planning on pinhead crickets and (once he's old enough) horns, silks, dubai, etc.
 
oh yeah and another question... Which misting system can go the longest without being refilled? We are just wondering in case we go on vacation (we have a trusted chameleo-sitter but just in case)
 
The Mistking and Climist do not include a reservoir, so you provide your own. Most buy a 5 gallon food bucket at HomeDepot or Lowes, because the fitting is provided by both companies. You just cut a hole in the bottom of the bucket and screw on the fitting [called a bulkhead].
 
Depending on the size of your new cham pinheads might be a bit small by 3-6 mos. depends. You might want to consider a size larger once you see him or ask the seller what he's currently eating.
 
I'm on the same train as you! I got pretty much everything except the live plants since I'm still waiting for my Arcadia fixture to get here. Mistking, 2 manzanita trees, some fake vines, I'm building a frame inside his cage to support everything, got my temp gun, digital humidity and temperature gauge, branches. I'm so nervous still even though I've been reading up for over 2 months to make sure I provide the best possible care to my future baby. Can't wait!
 
Lizzie The Chameleon said:
also i'm going to purchase an arcadia bulb, which is best: T5, T8, or T12?
Click to expand...

T5 is the best. T5 or T8 refers to the diameter of the bulb. T8 are wider. I've never heard of T12.

Perhaps you are confusing the numbers with the strength of the UVB output. Arcadia produces 6%, 12% (which I use for almost everything) and their new 14%. The higher the %UVB, the deeper the penetration in the cage. Whether 6% or 12% depends on your cage height and species. I would use a 12% in a normal cage and make sure the animal can get out of the UVB rays at all levels in the cage if it so chooses.

You mentioned in your first post about immediately taking your chameleon to the vet. I would recommend you not. Few vets can tell whether a chameleon is sick or not unless you tell them. When they are stressed--such as at a vet's--they are so defensive that even the best reptile vet in the world will not see illness unless the animal is on death's doorstep and even then they can appear surprisingly healthy and vigorous. Save your money. I do take my animals to the vet when they need them. Sometimes I do when I just want my vet's opinion on some concerns I have, but my collection is pretty much all wild caughts which have a host of problems that a captive born chamemleon won't have.

If you are getting a captive born and bred chameleon from a breeder, that is of a fair size and weight, they should never need a vet. Even if they have parasites, testing and treating is usually not appropriate when they first arrive. (The parasite load will increase with the stress of shipping, etc.)
 
jajeanpierre said:
T5 is the best. T5 or T8 refers to the diameter of the bulb. T8 are wider. I've never heard of T12.

Perhaps you are confusing the numbers with the strength of the UVB output. Arcadia produces 6%, 12% (which I use for almost everything) and their new 14%. The higher the %UVB, the deeper the penetration in the cage. Whether 6% or 12% depends on your cage height and species. I would use a 12% in a normal cage and make sure the animal can get out of the UVB rays at all levels in the cage if it so chooses.
Click to expand...
i'm not sure, i was browsing www.lightyourreptiles.com and this showed up
IMG_3992.JPG

jajeanpierre said:
You mentioned in your first post about immediately taking your chameleon to the vet. I would recommend you not. Few vets can tell whether a chameleon is sick or not unless you tell them. When they are stressed--such as at a vet's--they are so defensive that even the best reptile vet in the world will not see illness unless the animal is on death's doorstep and even then they can appear surprisingly healthy and vigorous. Save your money. I do take my animals to the vet when they need them. Sometimes I do when I just want my vet's opinion on some concerns I have, but my collection is pretty much all wild caughts which have a host of problems that a captive born chamemleon won't have.

If you are getting a captive born and bred chameleon from a breeder, that is of a fair size and weight, they should never need a vet. Even if they have parasites, testing and treating is usually not appropriate when they first arrive. (The parasite load will increase with the stress of shipping, etc.)
Click to expand...
yes i will be ordering online through a breeder (not sure which one yet) and we would be interested in a male ambilobe panther, but we haven't completely decided yet. Good call on the vets thing, that would really be a lot of stress leaving the only place it has ever known to get in a box to go to a strange place only to get into another box in a different place, only to be put in another box in a different place. Thank you for your input!
 
jajeanpierre said:
T5 is the best. T5 or T8 refers to the diameter of the bulb. T8 are wider. I've never heard of T12.

Perhaps you are confusing the numbers with the strength of the UVB output. Arcadia produces 6%, 12% (which I use for almost everything) and their new 14%. The higher the %UVB, the deeper the penetration in the cage. Whether 6% or 12% depends on your cage height and species. I would use a 12% in a normal cage and make sure the animal can get out of the UVB rays at all levels in the cage if it so chooses.

You mentioned in your first post about immediately taking your chameleon to the vet. I would recommend you not. Few vets can tell whether a chameleon is sick or not unless you tell them. When they are stressed--such as at a vet's--they are so defensive that even the best reptile vet in the world will not see illness unless the animal is on death's doorstep and even then they can appear surprisingly healthy and vigorous. Save your money. I do take my animals to the vet when they need them. Sometimes I do when I just want my vet's opinion on some concerns I have, but my collection is pretty much all wild caughts which have a host of problems that a captive born chamemleon won't have.

If you are getting a captive born and bred chameleon from a breeder, that is of a fair size and weight, they should never need a vet. Even if they have parasites, testing and treating is usually not appropriate when they first arrive. (The parasite load will increase with the stress of shipping, etc.)
Click to expand...
You'll find a lot of T12's in older 4 ft lights in homes or buildings.
 
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