5.0 UVB passing thru screen suuficient enough? Should I use 10.0?

Big Gulp

Established Member
So right now I have the 16x16x36 Rept-Breeze (plan on upgrading to the LLL 24x24x48 in the future) with my Repti-Sun 5.0 UVB sitting on top. Now I've read that the screen cuts out up to 50% of the rays. And I know you shouldn't put the bulb inside the enclosure, so what gives? Should I use 10.0 instead? Or maybe rotate every month? Has anybody done that?

Thanks!
 
I personally just use the 10.0's (and more recently arcadia's) because the UVB output is still nothing compared to outside UVB and will not harm your animal period.

5.0's IMO, through a screen most times aren't producing enough UVB. I tested one the other day with my UV meter. It was only putting out 10 microwatts through screen (I think it's 13+ that's needed to properly synthesize d3).

So I say go with the 10.0, it produces a little more light usually too.

Edit: The big thing is to allow them multiple ranges of UVB and allow them to completely get out of it when needed via branches/leaves etc.
 
So right now I have the 16x16x36 Rept-Breeze (plan on upgrading to the LLL 24x24x48 in the future) with my Repti-Sun 5.0 UVB sitting on top. Now I've read that the screen cuts out up to 50% of the rays. And I know you shouldn't put the bulb inside the enclosure, so what gives? Should I use 10.0 instead? Or maybe rotate every month? Has anybody done that?

Thanks!

most people who use fine mesh screens just accept that the UVB penetration is hindered, and ensure the perch is close to the lamp and that the lamp is changed frequently.

I personally prefer to use a wider open wire top (not a fine screen), but that has its own downside (flying feeders more easily get out)
 
I am actually in the process of modifying my cages. I just got a solarmeter and found that almost none of the UV from my T5 HO Arcadias is getting through the fine mesh screen. Going to have to use wider wire for the top.
 
I personally just use the 10.0's (and more recently arcadia's) because the UVB output is still nothing compared to outside UVB and will not harm your animal period.

Sooo, these Arcadia's. Better than Reptisuns??

And thanks for the replies everybody!
 
I think the majority of members on here use the 5.0's on top of the screen cages with success, myself included. It is up to you what you want to use, but I am just throwing it out there that the 5.0's can be used.
 
I am actually in the process of modifying my cages. I just got a solarmeter and found that almost none of the UV from my T5 HO Arcadias is getting through the fine mesh screen. Going to have to use wider wire for the top.

Im interested in this you mind posting pics with your readings. were you using 6 or 12s. thankfully while building my enclosure the mesh rolls i bought came in 7 feet and i needed 8 so bought another smaller sized hardware cloth for the top with 1/4 inch holes
 
I hope you don't mind me jumping into your thread but I'm wondering if Zoo Med ReptiSun 5.0 UVB Mini Compact Fluorescent Bulb 13 watts would be okay to use on my Chameleon?
 
I hope you don't mind me jumping into your thread but I'm wondering if Zoo Med ReptiSun 5.0 UVB Mini Compact Fluorescent Bulb 13 watts would be okay to use on my Chameleon?

many people would advise you to use the linear lights
 
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Sooo, these Arcadia's. Better than Reptisuns??
They last longer (9months) - Service from "Light my Reptiles" is great - compaired to buying them at pet smart they are cheaper. I just replaced all mine with Arcadia s - I'm very happy with the switch-
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I hope you don't mind me jumping into your thread but I'm wondering if Zoo Med ReptiSun 5.0 UVB Mini Compact Fluorescent Bulb 13 watts would be okay to use on my Chameleon?
I've seen eye problems that were blamed on compact fluorescents and while they are used and may or may not have caused the problem I would not use them - especially if my chameleon was still young - If you have one and are using it and his eyes are open and bright (day time) I wouldn't worry too much - but if I were buying I'd get a tube-
 
Ok, so I have been doing more readings trying to figure out what to do before changing the top of my cage. Now keep in mind these Arcadia T5 HO are due to be replaced in December. I am going to go ahead and replace them next week, repeat the readings and hope all is better. I can't say I like what I see right now. And I get similar results through the screen or without the screen.

I'm using a model 6.5 UV index solar meter.

At the bulb without any screen I'm getting 6.7.

Here is right at the screen which is 1 inch below the bulb.
image-1.jpg


Here is 2 inches below the screen.
image.jpg


Here at 8 inches below the screen.
image-2.jpg


And 12 inches below, which is where my boys spend MOST of their time.
image-3.jpg


Like I said, I hope this is because the bulbs are due for replacing. I will take the same readings once I get the new bulbs in, which should be a week or two.
 
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Thanks for that that, I would definitely go with your bulbs need replacing 6.7 without anything is still pretty low. and Ill try to catch the post when you update it. but for others you can already see screen does cut around if not more than half the uv penetration. Think in your case was a bit more due to having a weaker bulb cause needs replacing.
 
Sooo, these Arcadia's. Better than Reptisuns??

And thanks for the replies everybody!

So far for me, they are. I ended up getting three, 4 foot dual fixtures (6% arcadia/6500k grow light along with a 6.2 Solar Meter.

They are supposed to last a year versus ReptiSun/Exo-Terras needing to be replaced every 5-6 months. Honestly after having my solar meter, I will never buy a 5.0 again knowing that through screen in most cases it is not enough UVB.

10.0's are perfectly fine though, just that they need to be replaced more often. The other bonus to a solar meter too is ; you know when your bulbs are bad! I just recently got a 100w PowerSun Mercury vapor for the beardeds. After 1 month it was producing TWO microwatts, which is basically nothing. Without it I would just be assuming it's good.
 
Has anyone done a reading with a meter, to see if the Reptisun T5 bulbs need to be changed after 6 months? I was under the impression that it was the CFLs that needed to be changed after 6 months. Just curious what the readings are, I need to buy a meter. Maybe hubby will get me one for Christmas. Way easier and more practical than jewelry. ;) The only reason I ask is something I had read on another website.


ETA: I think the Reptisuns haven't been available for 6 months,not sure, so my question is kind of a moot point.
 
Has anyone done a reading with a meter, to see if the Reptisun T5 bulbs need to be changed after 6 months? I was under the impression that it was the CFLs that needed to be changed after 6 months. Just curious what the readings are, I need to buy a meter. Maybe hubby will get me one for Christmas. Way easier and more practical than jewelry. ;) The only reason I ask is something I had read on another website.


ETA: I think the Reptisuns haven't been available for 6 months,not sure, so my question is kind of a moot point.

It has always been the Linear fluorescent tubes that should be replaced every 6 months or so. Of course you may get some that are actually good for longer, and you may have some that don't last even 3 months in regards to sufficient UVB levels. But without a UV meter, you'll never know which is why people replace theirs by 6 months.

I've never used a compact fluorescent as they have been known to cause eye damage. Never chanced it.

Not sure about the ReptiSun t5's though, as I went straight to arcadia for my t5s.

ReptiSuns have been available everywhere, where did you hear they were unavailable?
 
I personally just use the 10.0's (and more recently arcadia's) because the UVB output is still nothing compared to outside UVB and will not harm your animal period.

5.0's IMO, through a screen most times aren't producing enough UVB. I tested one the other day with my UV meter. It was only putting out 10 microwatts through screen (I think it's 13+ that's needed to properly synthesize d3).

So I say go with the 10.0, it produces a little more light usually too.

Edit: The big thing is to allow them multiple ranges of UVB and allow them to completely get out of it when needed via branches/leaves etc.


wait a sec, generations of chameleons have been bred and raised with 5% bulbs ! if 5% wasn't enough all those chams should have mbd and not breed! could it be that your uv meter readings were so low cause your bulb was borken? how many bulbs did you measure?
I just bought 2 exo terrra 5% neon tubes, I'd be pretty mad to learn that they are not good just days after I bought em!:eek:
I also read on many books/websites that 10% uvb is too much and could harm the eyes if your cham gets too close to it. arent 10%s only used for desert animals? I am really confused right now,:confused::confused:
I put my linear uv tubes inside the cage and my heat lamps outside pointing to where the uv light is, so that I have an area of heat and full uv light where my chams can bask! is that not enough? :eek:
I havent' had any problems so far. the only problems I had were with a compact uvb bulb and a tube from a cheap unknown brand. now I use only arcadia and exo terra ;)
 
wait a sec, generations of chameleons have been bred and raised with 5% bulbs ! if 5% wasn't enough all those chams should have mbd and not breed! could it be that your uv meter readings were so low cause your bulb was borken? how many bulbs did you measure?
I just bought 2 exo terrra 5% neon tubes, I'd be pretty mad to learn that they are not good just days after I bought em!:eek:
I also read on many books/websites that 10% uvb is too much and could harm the eyes if your cham gets too close to it. arent 10%s only used for desert animals? I am really confused right now,:confused::confused:
I put my linear uv tubes inside the cage and my heat lamps outside pointing to where the uv light is, so that I have an area of heat and full uv light where my chams can bask! is that not enough? :eek:
I havent' had any problems so far. the only problems I had were with a compact uvb bulb and a tube from a cheap unknown brand. now I use only arcadia and exo terra ;)

I only measured 3, reptisun 5.0's (what I had, they were around 1 month old). I use the 5.0's for babies for the first month or so. All 3 at 6" through screen measured below 15 microwatts.

Am I saying 10.0's are the only way to go? No. But 10's, which I have been using for many years have been what I have had success with. While I agree, 5.0's have been used for years, doesn't mean they are the best either.

Keep in mind, when bearded dragons were extremely popular in the 90's/early 2000's people were recommended to use heat rocks. Which now I would hope most know are extremely bad.

I don't really want to get into the whole debating thing, but I think people should get their own UV meters and find out for themselves what their bulbs are producing.
 
It has always been the Linear fluorescent tubes that should be replaced every 6 months or so. Of course you may get some that are actually good for longer, and you may have some that don't last even 3 months in regards to sufficient UVB levels. But without a UV meter, you'll never know which is why people replace theirs by 6 months.

I've never used a compact fluorescent as they have been known to cause eye damage. Never chanced it.

Not sure about the ReptiSun t5's though, as I went straight to arcadia for my t5s.

ReptiSuns have been available everywhere, where did you hear they were unavailable?

I believe the Reptisun T5s just came out fairly recently, not sure if it's been over 6 months since their debut. I had read a post by Frances Baines saying that the T5s should be good for a year and that the CFLs are the ones that need changing ever six months. It was on a bearded dragon forum. That's why I was curious if anyone here had done any readings to see how they degrade over time.

ETA: Looked at the post again, it was about T8 tubes not T5.
 
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