Cant quite find an answer...D3?

Ok. So I looked at my supps for Tobias, I use Flukers vit C with D3. Now I'm reading that the D3 should only be used 2-3 times a month. What happens if Tobias has too much D3?

Im going this weekend to get normal calcium w/o D3 (and some of those nasty roaches)

So whats the issue w/ D3 every day? I have not been able to get an answer, and Tobias looks healthy (only had him for 3ish weeks)

I gut load Jiminys with some nasty smelling brown powder that I mix with water and boil, then cool.

Thanks for the help!

RunCode3 said:

Ok. So I looked at my supps for Tobias, I use Flukers vit C with D3. Im assuming you mean calcium and not Vit C? Now I'm reading that the D3 should only be used 2-3 times a month. What happens if Tobias has too much D3?

Im going this weekend to get normal calcium w/o D3 (and some of those nasty roaches)I promise, youll prefer them to "jiminys"

So whats the issue w/ D3 every day? I have not been able to get an answer, and Tobias looks healthy (only had him for 3ish weeks)

I gut load Jiminys with some nasty smelling brown powder that I mix with water and boil, then cool.

Thanks for the help!

Click to expand...

They can OD on the D3, and it will have negative health effects.
I recently have had an issue where my jackson was recieving to much D3.
She became very restless at first, then beat her self up from falling, then she became almost deathly. So it caqn be quite serious. I am unsure to all the side effects and problems that may result though.
D3 allows calcium to be absorbed into the body, and out of the bloodstream. This way it can be used to make bones and such.
For a veiled, the recomended supplement schedule is:
Calcium w/ D3 - twice a month
Calcium w/o D3 - on every feeder
Multivitamin - twice a month

I believe too much D3 interferes with the body's ability to process some other vitamins, most notably, Vitamin A which is vital to a lot of stuff (particularly eyes).

Here it is, all laid out:

http://robertsprackland.hubpages.com/hub/Ultraviolet-Light--Vitamin-D--and-Reptile-Health


Health Conditions associated with UVB and D3

Given a proper diet, it is extremely difficult to suffer from vitamin D3 toxicity (hypervitaminosis D3). This is because prolonged exposure to UVB actually begins to break down both previtamin D3 and vitamin D3. Nevertheless, vitamin D3 levels can increase and lead to symptoms to warn that you must do something to reduce levels. Hypervitaminosis D3 leads to higher levels of blood calcium, calcification of soft tissues and impeded of joint movement, malformed bones with external calcium deposits ("bunions"), impaired nerve function, impaired flexibility of the valves of the heart, and destruction of the kidney's nephrons. This condition is very rarely the result of UVB exposure; rather, it comes from the excess administration of vitamin D3 itself. The condition is most easily corrected by withholding further doses of D3.

Lizards may develop lethargy and soft bones, yet have calcium deposits accumulate in muscles and other soft tissues. This is a typical indication of insufficient UVB exposure and not directly related to vitamin D or calcium levels. Such patients need to be exposed to good UVB light for several hours per day. Remission may begin within a few days.

Solid Snake said:

They can OD on the D3, and it will have negative health effects.
I recently have had an issue where my jackson was recieving to much D3.
She became very restless at first, then beat her self up from falling, then she became almost deathly. So it caqn be quite serious. I am unsure to all the side effects and problems that may result though.
D3 allows calcium to be absorbed into the body, and out of the bloodstream. This way it can be used to make bones and such.
For a veiled, the recomended supplement schedule is:
Calcium w/ D3 - twice a month
Calcium w/o D3 - on every feeder
Multivitamin - twice a month

Click to expand...

Elizadolots said:

I believe too much D3 interferes with the body's ability to process some other vitamins, most notably, Vitamin A which is vital to a lot of stuff (particularly eyes).

Click to expand...

Solid Snake said:

Here it is, all laid out:

http://robertsprackland.hubpages.com/hub/Ultraviolet-Light--Vitamin-D--and-Reptile-Health


Health Conditions associated with UVB and D3

Given a proper diet, it is extremely difficult to suffer from vitamin D3 toxicity (hypervitaminosis D3). This is because prolonged exposure to UVB actually begins to break down both previtamin D3 and vitamin D3. Nevertheless, vitamin D3 levels can increase and lead to symptoms to warn that you must do something to reduce levels. Hypervitaminosis D3 leads to higher levels of blood calcium, calcification of soft tissues and impeded of joint movement, malformed bones with external calcium deposits ("bunions"), impaired nerve function, impaired flexibility of the valves of the heart, and destruction of the kidney's nephrons. This condition is very rarely the result of UVB exposure; rather, it comes from the excess administration of vitamin D3 itself. The condition is most easily corrected by withholding further doses of D3.

Lizards may develop lethargy and soft bones, yet have calcium deposits accumulate in muscles and other soft tissues. This is a typical indication of insufficient UVB exposure and not directly related to vitamin D or calcium levels. Such patients need to be exposed to good UVB light for several hours per day. Remission may begin within a few days.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the quick reply, and yes; calcium not vit c I is there a brand of multi vit you all recommend?

Rep-Cal if you are going with individual supplements.
I am seeing the Repashy Calcium Plus in quite a few places nowadays.
Its an all in one, and is great.
I use Repashy on my panther, It makes life easy, and it smells like bananas/berries

Some local hobbyists have told me D3 overdose causes partial paralysis of the hind legs.

In chameleons, hind leg paralysis can also be caused by impaction.

Here's some information I hope will help you with supplementing, etc.....
Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption.

Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.

A wide variety of insects that have been well fed and gutloaded should be fed to it.

Since many of the feeder insects we use in captivity have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects just before you feed them to the chameleon at most feedings with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it. (I use Rep-cal phosphorus-free calcium).

If you also dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it. (I use Rep-cal phos.-free calcium/D3).

Dusting twice a month as well with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while. (I use herptivite which has beta carotene.)

Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.)

Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.
Please note that various supplements have various amounts of D3 and vitamin A and so some can be given more often than others. The idea still is not to overdo the fat soluble vitamins like D3 and prEformed vitamin A.

Here are some good sites for you to read too...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200605020...Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200406080...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://web.archive.org/web/200601140...ww.adcham.com/
If you can't access the sites above that have the word "archive" in you can do it through the WayBackMachine.