thank you for your advise

appleowner

New Member
Thanks for your advise people,...i will get her to a vet about mbd, her ankles do look a little swollen, .... I've cut her claws a little and she Aint struggling as much... But i gave her a drink two days ago and she wouldn't stop drinking, now she isn't grabbing herself half as much. Does anyone think that she may have been dehydrated and disorientated? ...Cause she seems better off past couple ov days.
Also...i Aint streaming this site of my pc bit of my galaxy s... So having problems uploading photos and info sheet.
 

Carlton

Chameleon Enthusiast
Did I misunderstand and read that you gave her a drink TWO DAYS AGO? Chams need to drink every day, some even twice a day. I'll bet she was thirsty!
 

appleowner

New Member
To be honest i presumed she was drinking but never actually saw her,now i makesure she drinks by offering her a drink from a pipete at least once a day, to make sure that she is. But i have now seen her drinking from the plants, she has a drip, and i mist before i go to work, and a couple of times of a evening.
 

kinyonga

Chameleon Enthusiast
What species is she?
Glad you are taking her to a vet!
One word of advise...if you have posted a thread about a problem with a chameleon its best to continue any further posts you have about that chameleon in the same thread so that people can follow what is going on.

Regarding filling out the questionaire in the "How to ask for help" thread at the top of the health section...just click on "how to ask for help" and then cut and paste the questions into your thread and answer them.

If your chameleon does have MBD its important to correct it asap and then also to provide proper husbandry so that it will stay corrected.

Once a female egglaying chameleon is sexually mature its important to provide her with an appropriate place to dig to lay eggs if she needs to. Many species can lay eggs without having been mated...and failure to provide a place can lead to eggbinding and death.

Here's some information about chameleon husbandry with some links at the bottom...

Exposure to proper UVB, appropriate temperatures, supplements, a supply of well-fed/gutloaded insects, water and an appropriate cage set-up are all important for the well-being of your chameleon.

Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption. Temperatures needed can vary with the species.

Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.

Since many of the feeder insects have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects just before you feed them to the chameleon at most feedings with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it. (I use Rep-cal phosphorus-free calcium).

If you also dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it. (I use Rep-cal phos.-free calcium/D3).

Dusting twice a month as well with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while. (I use herptivite.)

Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.)

Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.

Here are some good sites for you to read...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200605020...Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200406080...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://raisingkittytheveiledchameleon.blogspot.com/
http://web.archive.org/web/200601140...ww.adcham.com/
 

appleowner

New Member
nice one!

Thanks for the info. apple, my chameleon, is a veiled, l give her all the supps, and she has a repti glo uvb. I live in England so the sup brands u may not ov heard ov, i use komodo cal sup every time i feed her plus a vit sup once a week which is called nutrobol. Her viv is at the base covered in a substrate in which she can dig to lay if need be.her temperatures are. ...95 during the day too 82 ov a night. Will have to figure a way to upload pics.
 

kinyonga

Chameleon Enthusiast
Many of the substrates can lead to an impaction if eaten...and since we can't be sure which might and which won't usually we recommend not using one at all.
I provide an opaque container of washed playsand for the chameleons to dig in.

IMHO your temperatures are too warm. I keep mine in the low to mid 80'sF in the warmest area of the cage during the day and 72F or lower at night.
 
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