Superworms or Hornworms?

NOP

New Member
So my Veiled "Neo" is about a foot long now and around 7-8 months old and i have been meaning to give him more variety in his diet...even though he has slowed down on the eating a bit...by slowed down i mean instead of 12 crickets a day he usually eats 5-6 and is content with that...i free range 2 crickets and cup feed the rest a day and i am looking into superworms and hornworms as a treat for him but...i have seen some superworm vids and those things squirm alot and am not too sure about em which is why i am getting interested in hornworms and am wondering what people who have more experience in dealing with superworms and hornworms have to say about it?...so all comments welcome!
 
Both are great. Movement catches their eye better so superworms are a favorite. But hornworms are soft bodied and have a lot of water in them, which is excellent for keeping chameleons well hydrated. If you had to chose between both I'd say the hornworm, but the superworms live for months and months as long as you feed them properly and are easy to breed on your own. So you can always do both. Order 250 superworms, for example, and those will last you months maybe, along with a cup of hornworms every couple weeks. The hornworms will grow very large very qucikly, so it's better to buy them a week or two's supply at a time.
 
easy on the supers

The super worms have a hard shell so that makes the stool hard I would do both but not many super worms. I would do more hornworms and also silk worms are good too as well as wax worms. also try veggies kail, collered greens, mustard greens, and mellons if your veild eats it will love you for it. Mine didn't under stand at first he even spit it out when he got it with a cricket but then he ate it and would eat the kail no problem.
 
HORNWORMS HORNWORMS HORNWORMS!!!!! Easily digestible, Full of hydration goodness and just so tasty for the guys and gals!!!!
 
The super worms have a hard shell so that makes the stool hard I would do both but not many super worms. I would do more hornworms and also silk worms are good too as well as wax worms. also try veggies kail, collered greens, mustard greens, and mellons if your veild eats it will love you for it. Mine didn't under stand at first he even spit it out when he got it with a cricket but then he ate it and would eat the kail no problem.

I have to disagree.
Superworms do have chinton, some of which is actually necessary to digestion. While I wouldnt have superworms make up more than 20% of my chameleons diet,and preferably more towards 10%, but they can make an excellent addition to ones chameleons diet because of the easy of gutloading. Hornworms are good, but they lack much chinton - too many soft bodied feeders are no better than too many "crunchy" feeders. A conbination is best. Silkworms are also excellent soft bodied feeders, and a bit easier to gutload than hornworms. Waxworms however provide almost no nutritional benefits. They are primarily fat, and therefore make a poor feeder choice.

NO single prey type should make up more than 20% of a chameleons diet. There should be a variety of prey provided.
 
variety

I have to disagree.
Superworms do have chinton, some of which is actually necessary to digestion. While I wouldnt have superworms make up more than 20% of my chameleons diet,and preferably more towards 10%, but they can make an excellent addition to ones chameleons diet because of the easy of gutloading. Hornworms are good, but they lack much chinton - too many soft bodied feeders are no better than too many "crunchy" feeders. A conbination is best. Silkworms are also excellent soft bodied feeders, and a bit easier to gutload than hornworms. Waxworms however provide almost no nutritional benefits. They are primarily fat, and therefore make a poor feeder choice.

NO single prey type should make up more than 20% of a chameleons diet. There should be a variety of prey provided.


you disagree then prove me right by saying don't let the superworms make up more then 10%. I think you should have a variety the hornworms have lots of hydration so thats a plus but no I would not feed them those alone. Truth is there is no right or wrong answer feed him some and see what he likes and how he poops thats really all you can do.
 
you disagree then prove me right by saying don't let the superworms make up more then 10%. I think you should have a variety the hornworms have lots of hydration so thats a plus but no I would not feed them those alone. Truth is there is no right or wrong answer feed him some and see what he likes and how he poops thats really all you can do.

Perhaps I missunderstood what you were saying. I had the impression you were against feeding many superworms, and for feeding waxworms. If that's not what you were saying, good! we likely agree
 
what do u guys think about butter worms?

still fatty, i use them as a treat..they are better than wax worms tho (as in nutrition)

but its like comparing twinkies to hoho's

just keep a good variety, and dont over do it on grubs (even in survival, they tell you eat grubs "lots of fatty proteins"}
 
I love butterworms though because they have a really high calcium content. So they're fatty, but they have a really good cal content which is great. So I give a few throughout the week as well. I try to have at least 4 feeders in the house at any one moment to mix it up.
 
While were talking about superworms; Don't forget to dust a little calcium on the supers. Supers are a little high in the phosphate ratio. A little dab of honey, or light water mist will help the powder stick.
 
supers

yeah I was just meaning not to many superworms cause of the hard shell. But like we agree on you should mix it up....

I had a veiled that ate a pinky once. feeding lots of different types of worms is good but no one type is a main food source. Also feeding the crickets fruit and veggies other then just gut load is a good idea also.
 
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