Senegal chameleons
- Thread starter lvbg1435
- Start date
Chris Jury
New Member
Agreed with the above: I wouldn't house adults together, even in a very large cage.
lvbg1435...with the questions you are asking I hope you aren't planning on getting another chameleon until you have done a lot more studying on them.
Here's some information to get you started........
Exposure to proper UVB, appropriate temperatures, supplements, a supply of well-fed/gutloaded insects, water and an appropriate cage set-up are all important for the well-being of your chameleon.
Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption.
Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.
Since many of the feeder insects have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects just before you feed them to the chameleon at most feedings with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it. (I use Rep-cal phosphorus-free calcium).
If you also dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it. (I use Rep-cal phos.-free calcium/D3).
Dusting twice a month as well with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while. (I use herptivite.)
Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.)
Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.
Here are some good sites for you to read...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200605020...Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200406080...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://raisingkittytheveiledchameleon.blogspot.com/
http://web.archive.org/web/200601140...ww.adcham.com/
Here's some information to get you started........
Exposure to proper UVB, appropriate temperatures, supplements, a supply of well-fed/gutloaded insects, water and an appropriate cage set-up are all important for the well-being of your chameleon.
Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption.
Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.
Since many of the feeder insects have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects just before you feed them to the chameleon at most feedings with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it. (I use Rep-cal phosphorus-free calcium).
If you also dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it. (I use Rep-cal phos.-free calcium/D3).
Dusting twice a month as well with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while. (I use herptivite.)
Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.)
Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.
Here are some good sites for you to read...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200605020...Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200406080...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://raisingkittytheveiledchameleon.blogspot.com/
http://web.archive.org/web/200601140...ww.adcham.com/
Wow, if you think people giving you advice is insulting you, then you have NO ROOM on this forum
lvbg1435
New Member
Senegal Chameleon (Chamaeleo Senegalensis)
Description:
Senegal Chameleons are grey to brown to green but, like all chameleons, they can change color. They will grow up to 6-8 inches long. Males will have broader tales than females and are more grayish-brown with triangular blotches while females tend to be a uniform green or brownish-green. These lizards can live up to 6-7 years if taken care of properly. They are great starter chameleons if you’ve never owned a chameleon but want one as a pet.
Habitat and Tank Requirements:
This species is native to Sub-Saharan West Africa.
These lizards do well with reptile carpet, shredded coconut husks, or reptile bark as a substrate. Be sure to put enough plants, rocks, and wood in the tank for your lizard to hide in and climb on. These lizards love to climb.
These chameleons do not need too much space and a group of 2 or 3 can inhabit a 15-20 gallon tank. Keep only one male per tank, as they may fight. A screen cover is recommended for your tank, as it allows better airflow and heating.
A comfortable temperature for these lizards is around 72-85º F during the day with a slight drop at night. LEDs or other low-wattage light bulbs work best for maintaining these temperatures. A small heat pad is recommended for basking.
Your tank should have a small, shallow bowl of water that is cleaned daily. This is for your lizard to drink from as well as wade in. Some lizards won’t drink from a bowl. In this case some sort of dropper is recommended. Misting the tank with a spray bottle twice a day is recommended.
Diet:
Senegal Chameleons will feed on small crickets, fruit flies, mealworms, wax worms, and any other insect small enough for them to ingest. They prefer live food. It is recommended that food be dusted with calcium to prevent bone softening.
Handling:
Allow your lizard time to become accustomed to its new home before handling them extensively. Handling them little by little over a period of time lets the animal get used to you and reduces stress.
and this is from a few books and online webpage the same so yea im going to ask
here on this web page
Description:
Senegal Chameleons are grey to brown to green but, like all chameleons, they can change color. They will grow up to 6-8 inches long. Males will have broader tales than females and are more grayish-brown with triangular blotches while females tend to be a uniform green or brownish-green. These lizards can live up to 6-7 years if taken care of properly. They are great starter chameleons if you’ve never owned a chameleon but want one as a pet.
Habitat and Tank Requirements:
This species is native to Sub-Saharan West Africa.
These lizards do well with reptile carpet, shredded coconut husks, or reptile bark as a substrate. Be sure to put enough plants, rocks, and wood in the tank for your lizard to hide in and climb on. These lizards love to climb.
These chameleons do not need too much space and a group of 2 or 3 can inhabit a 15-20 gallon tank. Keep only one male per tank, as they may fight. A screen cover is recommended for your tank, as it allows better airflow and heating.
A comfortable temperature for these lizards is around 72-85º F during the day with a slight drop at night. LEDs or other low-wattage light bulbs work best for maintaining these temperatures. A small heat pad is recommended for basking.
Your tank should have a small, shallow bowl of water that is cleaned daily. This is for your lizard to drink from as well as wade in. Some lizards won’t drink from a bowl. In this case some sort of dropper is recommended. Misting the tank with a spray bottle twice a day is recommended.
Diet:
Senegal Chameleons will feed on small crickets, fruit flies, mealworms, wax worms, and any other insect small enough for them to ingest. They prefer live food. It is recommended that food be dusted with calcium to prevent bone softening.
Handling:
Allow your lizard time to become accustomed to its new home before handling them extensively. Handling them little by little over a period of time lets the animal get used to you and reduces stress.
and this is from a few books and online webpage the same so yea im going to ask
here on this web page
lvbg1435
New Member
i did not open this for a fight just asking about a a lizard so if you not here to tell me any mor e info on the lizard i stated then dont bother and i was not talking to you so back off people are reading in to this to much read what i put thanks the advice from the guy befor you did not really help sep tell me a boute crickets was it what i was looking for no the 1st person that replyed
pretty much told me more in less words so wow.. to you as well no room hmmm i guess when i ask about a lizard that type of one not a cricket or a health issue what next childish lets bash this guy i just felt that way and that it no need for some one to but in less it about the lizard not about crickets
lvbg1435
New Member
lol see that why im asking there a lot out there that hard to say if it true or what
Julirs
New Member
It certainly is hard to say when you see care sheets like that, but please ask questions here where you will get factual information. If you have not had a lot of experience with chameleons I would not get a Senegal.
lvbg1435
New Member
heres one place that uses this care sheet
i can post a few more links as well that state basicly the same
http://www.reptilecity.com/Merchant...ptiles&Product_Code=SC2&Category_Code=LIZARDS
Thats just sad, he is being kept in an aquarium too. Dont buy from them, they obviously dont know what they are doing
serenitystarlite
Established Member
I posted on their facebook page and on mine: "Chameleons should NEVER be housed in glass tanks. A 20-30 gallon is too small and they should be housed in SCREEN cages, not aquariums. Please do not buy any animals from Reptile City until they get their husbandry and care sheets corrected to reflect the proper set up for chameleons." All of their care sheets state that chameleons can be housed in "tanks" including a statement that "One adult Meller’s Chameleon needs a 20-30 gallon tank." That right there sent chills down my spine and made me sick to my stomach.
I have had 3 sickly Senegal chameleons and I would not recommend them to a beginner. Even after my experience with them which isn't much compared to some other keepers, I don't think I would want another Senegal for a long time. They are still my favorite and will always hold a place in my heart, but are too difficult to keep healthy because they often come in sickly in the first place.
serenitystarlite
Established Member
Also, please don't ever take advice given here as an attack. This forum's main purpose is to help you. You should be happy for any advice, even if you already know the basics and it's just a refresher. Kinyonga is one of the most helpful people on this site. She was the one who saw an issue with my Senegal chameleon Kami before I knew it was an issue. If I had ignored her, I might not have been able to keep Kami alive for as long as I did. Chameleons are delicate and if you have one little thing off, it can effect them. I knew the risk I took when I bought Kami, as I had owned a Senegal as my first chameleon 16 years ago. I'm glad I was the one who purchased her and made her life very comfortable before she died, but the whole ordeal was very difficult to go through. So please focus on your panther and stick with captive bred chameleons for awhile. Wild caught may seem cheaper, but they become very expensive when you have to take them to the vet multiple times. I spent twice as much on Kami's 3 vet bills than I spent purchasing my Nosy Be Panther.
Psi
New Member
Ahh another one of those "You didn't tell me what I wanted to know %#*$#&#&%" replies.
Here's a tip, if Kinyonga posted it, it's likely worth reading.
The people on this forum generally have the best interests of the chameleons at the top of their minds and any advice given is given with the intention of seeing a chameleon have proper husbandry so it will survive and do well in the person's care. If you want to look at it as insulting, then so be it. Its definitely not meant to be that way...its advice given in good faith.
I gave you the advice not to buy a Senegal until you learned more because you were asking very basic questions that you should have been asking before you got your first chameleon and that you would have known the answers to if you had looked at even one decent caresheet...Re: pygs..."are they easy to take care of and are they hardy and how much do they eat and what do they eat"..."do Senegal chameleons give live birth or are they a egg layer as well?"...and the comment was said with the intention of helping you not to lose your chameleons when you do get them by having you learn enough to provide proper husbandry for them.
That care sheet on Senegals has to be one of the worst I have ever seen. It gives no proper information on providing water for them, advises the use of substrates that have been known to cause impactions, etc. Although Senegals are not one of the more difficult chameleons to keep, they are almost always WC...and WC's come with their own issues.
BTW...I'm not a guy...and I've kept/raised/bred/hatched chameleons for over 20 years along with many other reptiles. I've been involved with studies of chameleons and worked with the zoo on a number of occasions.
From one of the sites that I directed you too...
http://chameleonnews.com/05DecRouthouska.html
http://chameleonnews.com/08FebFrancis.html
Thanks for the comments, serenitystarlite's Avatar
serenitystarlite and Psi! (Blush, blush.)
I gave you the advice not to buy a Senegal until you learned more because you were asking very basic questions that you should have been asking before you got your first chameleon and that you would have known the answers to if you had looked at even one decent caresheet...Re: pygs..."are they easy to take care of and are they hardy and how much do they eat and what do they eat"..."do Senegal chameleons give live birth or are they a egg layer as well?"...and the comment was said with the intention of helping you not to lose your chameleons when you do get them by having you learn enough to provide proper husbandry for them.
That care sheet on Senegals has to be one of the worst I have ever seen. It gives no proper information on providing water for them, advises the use of substrates that have been known to cause impactions, etc. Although Senegals are not one of the more difficult chameleons to keep, they are almost always WC...and WC's come with their own issues.
BTW...I'm not a guy...and I've kept/raised/bred/hatched chameleons for over 20 years along with many other reptiles. I've been involved with studies of chameleons and worked with the zoo on a number of occasions.
From one of the sites that I directed you too...
http://chameleonnews.com/05DecRouthouska.html
http://chameleonnews.com/08FebFrancis.html
Thanks for the comments, serenitystarlite's Avatar
serenitystarlite and Psi! (Blush, blush.)
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