Pinched his little hand 😭

Grainy86

Member
Yesterday I was installing his new automatic misting system and he was exploring near the doors. I opened one further without realizing that his tiny little foot was holding on to the hinges and was pinched. He squirmed and hissed and at first I didn’t realize what had happened and thought maybe I scared him. It took me several seconds to realize but when I did I released him immediately. I feel so horrible 😭😭😭 I’m really hoping that I only got his skin and that his bones and muscles are alright. He has some slight discoloration that popped up immediately but otherwise seems fine. He’s moving around and eating and sleeping just fine, using the foot except for when he’s resting where he holds it up.

How do I know if he’s okay? What should I look for to make sure he’s healing correctly? Should I raise the humidity or up his calcium and vitamins until it’s healed?
(Sorry for the odd lighting, I had to use a flashlight because his timed lights were already out for the night)
 

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Beman

Chameleon Enthusiast
Yesterday I was installing his new automatic misting system and he was exploring near the doors. I opened one further without realizing that his tiny little foot was holding on to the hinges and was pinched. He squirmed and hissed and at first I didn’t realize what had happened and thought maybe I scared him. It took me several seconds to realize but when I did I released him immediately. I feel so horrible 😭😭😭 I’m really hoping that I only got his skin and that his bones and muscles are alright. He has some slight discoloration that popped up immediately but otherwise seems fine. He’s moving around and eating and sleeping just fine, using the foot except for when he’s resting where he holds it up.

How do I know if he’s okay? What should I look for to make sure he’s healing correctly? Should I raise the humidity or up his calcium and vitamins until it’s healed?
(Sorry for the odd lighting, I had to use a flashlight because his timed lights were already out for the night)
You will not change husbandry at all. Assuming your husbandry is spot on. There may be black markings across the hand from bruising this is normal with an injury and will go away. Nothing can be done for broken bones with chams. Make sure the skin was not cut though.

If you would like to do a help form then we can go over husbandry with you to ensure you got the correct information.

Chameleon Info:

  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:

  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

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Please Note:

  1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
  2. Photos can be very helpful.
 

Grainy86

Member
Chameleon Info:

  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:

  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.
Thank you so much for the details! Here’s his info:


Chameleon Info:

  • Your Chameleon - 3 month old male veiled chameleon, in my care for about 3 weeks now
  • Handling - Only occasionally (every couple of days) and only when he willingly comes onto my hand for crickets.
  • Feeding - I gut load my crickets with a salad mix of carrots, sweet potato, lettuce, and strawberries. They’re all scraps from the bakery I work at and my home. I feed him daily where he is young and as much as he is willing to eat. Usually about 6-10 small crickets. Dubia roaches as the occasional treat
  • Supplements - I use fluker’s calcium with no d3 daily coated on a couple of his crickets. I also use fluker’s reptile vitamin with beta carotene (pics below for details) dusted on a couple of crickets every 2 weeks.
  • Watering - I mist for about 4 minutes twice daily but he also has a big dripper drip system that provides a constant drip of water.
  • Fecal Description - He hasn’t been tested to my knowledge, but I got him from FLchams which supposedly has a pretty good reputation for healthy Chams. It looks normal; brown with the usual white
  • History - He is healthy, strong, and a very brave boy that I love. When he comes out, I handle him for a bit and then let him chill on my lucky bamboo plant.

Cage Info:

  • Cage Type - 22"L X 11.1"W X 25"H crescent shaped bio active glass enclosure with a metal screen roof.
  • Lighting - I use 100 watt daylight heat bulbs (I think they’re reptisun?) and a 10.0 uvb bulb (slightly defective, I sometimes have issues to get it on. I’ll be replacing it with a bar soon). There’s also a full spectrum Mingpak grow light for the plants. They come on every morning at 9 am and turn off at 9 pm.
  • Temperature - Basking spot is typically 80-85° but drops when I mist of course. I’m not sure the temp in the lower layers but it’s likely around 70°. At night, all lights are out as I have a pretty warm room and the cage stays 71°
  • Humidity - Daytime humidity stays between 30-50% but jumps briefly to the 60-70 when I mist. At night, it’s around 60-80 with the lights out°
  • Plants - I have devils ivy, previously had coleus, and a bromeliad. I haven’t observed him munching on any of them but I know they’re safe.
  • Placement - His cake is on a table a few feet away from a ceiling vent. It sits at chest-eye level.
  • Location - East coast southern WV
 

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Beman

Chameleon Enthusiast
Thank you so much for the details! Here’s his info:


Chameleon Info:

  • Your Chameleon - 3 month old male veiled chameleon, in my care for about 3 weeks now
  • Handling - Only occasionally (every couple of days) and only when he willingly comes onto my hand for crickets.
  • Feeding - I gut load my crickets with a salad mix of carrots, sweet potato, lettuce, and strawberries. They’re all scraps from the bakery I work at and my home. I feed him daily where he is young and as much as he is willing to eat. Usually about 6-10 small crickets. Dubia roaches as the occasional treat
  • Supplements - I use fluker’s calcium with no d3 daily coated on a couple of his crickets. I also use fluker’s reptile vitamin with beta carotene (pics below for details) dusted on a couple of crickets every 2 weeks.
  • Watering - I mist for about 4 minutes twice daily but he also has a big dripper drip system that provides a constant drip of water.
  • Fecal Description - He hasn’t been tested to my knowledge, but I got him from FLchams which supposedly has a pretty good reputation for healthy Chams. It looks normal; brown with the usual white
  • History - He is healthy, strong, and a very brave boy that I love. When he comes out, I handle him for a bit and then let him chill on my lucky bamboo plant.

Cage Info:

  • Cage Type - 22"L X 11.1"W X 25"H crescent shaped bio active glass enclosure with a metal screen roof.
  • Lighting - I use 100 watt daylight heat bulbs (I think they’re reptisun?) and a 10.0 uvb bulb (slightly defective, I sometimes have issues to get it on. I’ll be replacing it with a bar soon). There’s also a full spectrum Mingpak grow light for the plants. They come on every morning at 9 am and turn off at 9 pm.
  • Temperature - Basking spot is typically 80-85° but drops when I mist of course. I’m not sure the temp in the lower layers but it’s likely around 70°. At night, all lights are out as I have a pretty warm room and the cage stays 71°
  • Humidity - Daytime humidity stays between 30-50% but jumps briefly to the 60-70 when I mist. At night, it’s around 60-80 with the lights out°
  • Plants - I have devils ivy, previously had coleus, and a bromeliad. I haven’t observed him munching on any of them but I know they’re safe.
  • Placement - His cake is on a table a few feet away from a ceiling vent. It sits at chest-eye level.
  • Location - East coast southern WV
Can you add a picture of the entire enclosure including the lights on top so I can see exactly what your working with? I will go through your form now.
 

Grainy86

Member
Can you add a picture of the entire enclosure including the lights on top so I can see exactly what your working with? I will go through your form now.
The uvb is causing issues but soon I hope to replace it with a bar. Anything else? Thanks so much for your help.
 

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Beman

Chameleon Enthusiast
@Grainy86 See my feedback and questions in bold.


Chameleon Info:


  • Your Chameleon - 3 month old male veiled chameleon, in my care for about 3 weeks now If you can get pics of the back of his back feet I can confirm gender.
  • Handling - Only occasionally (every couple of days) and only when he willingly comes onto my hand for crickets.
  • Feeding - I gut load my crickets with a salad mix of carrots, sweet potato, lettuce, and strawberries. They’re all scraps from the bakery I work at and my home. I feed him daily where he is young and as much as he is willing to eat. Usually about 6-10 small crickets. Dubia roaches as the occasional treat. he should be eating much more at this age. Easily up to 20 small feeders a day. See image below for gutloading to expand yours.
  • Supplements - I use fluker’s calcium with no d3 daily coated on a couple of his crickets. I also use fluker’s reptile vitamin with beta carotene (pics below for details) dusted on a couple of crickets every 2 weeks. So you need to dust ALL feeders given at every meal. Lightly dusted not powdered donuts. This balances out the phosphorus to calcium levels of the feeders and is very important for them developing strong bones. The rotation of your supplements is the vitamin every other week on one feeding day for a total of 2 times a month and the calcium without d3 at all other feedings. But again ALL feeders given have to be dusted with whatever supplement should be used that day.
  • Watering - I mist for about 4 minutes twice daily but he also has a big dripper drip system that provides a constant drip of water. Make sure your misting in the morning and night when temps are cooler. With that glass enclosure you do not want hot humid air during the day and the cage should be drying out as well.
  • Fecal Description - He hasn’t been tested to my knowledge, but I got him from FLchams which supposedly has a pretty good reputation for healthy Chams. It looks normal; brown with the usual white. Get his fecal tested... They do not have the best reputable.
  • History - He is healthy, strong, and a very brave boy that I love. When he comes out, I handle him for a bit and then let him chill on my lucky bamboo plant.

Cage Info:


  • Cage Type - 22"L X 11.1"W X 25"H crescent shaped bio active glass enclosure with a metal screen roof. This is way too small. Go ahead and get him upgraded to a 2x2x4 enclosure
  • Lighting - I use 100 watt daylight heat bulbs (I think they’re reptisun?) and a 10.0 uvb bulb (slightly defective, I sometimes have issues to get it on. I’ll be replacing it with a bar soon). There’s also a full spectrum Mingpak grow light for the plants. They come on every morning at 9 am and turn off at 9 pm. So the UVB lighting needs to be replaced now. Depending on the actual compact bulb your using he may very well not be getting any UVB. MBD can set in fast especially since the supplementation has not been correct. 100 watt bulb on that small enclosure is much too strong. Temps are higher I bet than you think since your using analog guages. They are pretty inacurate. We recommend a T5HO linear fixture and a 5.0 bulb. Your distance to basking branch below it should be 8-9 inches. With your cage you need to measure from the branch up to the screen. Subtract that number from 8-9 inches and then raise the fixture that amount so that the total distance to the branch is 8-9 inches. DO NOT place a t5 fixture directly on the cage top it will over expose the cham. So follow the info above and raise it up on something... Wire shelf etc. Get a 24 inch fixture you will need it on the larger cage.
  • Temperature - Basking spot is typically 80-85° but drops when I mist of course. I’m not sure the temp in the lower layers but it’s likely around 70°. At night, all lights are out as I have a pretty warm room and the cage stays 71° You need to buy a wired temperature gauge with probe to know exactly what the temp is. The analog gauges on the side will not work for a basking temp. It should be low 80's at basking. At night you need to get the temp down farther. They need the temp drop at night. Down to even 65 would be better.
  • Humidity - Daytime humidity stays between 30-50% but jumps briefly to the 60-70 when I mist. At night, it’s around 60-80 with the lights out° This is fine as long as it spikes and falls. Mist morning and evening only and dripper during the day.
  • Plants - I have devils ivy, previously had coleus, and a bromeliad. I haven’t observed him munching on any of them but I know they’re safe.
  • Placement - His cake is on a table a few feet away from a ceiling vent. It sits at chest-eye level.
  • Location - East coast southern WV

chameleon-gutload.jpg
chameleon-food(1).jpg
 

Grainy86

Member
100 watt bulb on that small enclosure is much too strong. Temps are higher I bet than you think since your using analog guages.
I have a 50 watt bulb in storage currently that I was using before, would that work? I actually upgraded to a 100w because I read that my temps of mid 70s and low 80s was too low somewhere and I was worried he wasn’t getting warm enough.
A photo of his back legs is attached below.
where do you recommend I get a cage like that? My location is pretty secluded and the only pet store that has decent stuff is Petsmart about an hour away so I get most of my things online or secondhand (very rarely, the hobby is rare around here).

also, do you recommend a glass or screen enclosure for the new one?

also! I just checked on him after I got home from work and that bruising/discoloration is completely gone today. He readily came out onto my hand when I offered him crickets on his tweezers. He’ll be eating more today and now on as you mentioned for sure

Your information was really descriptive and great, I’ll definitely be tweaking and perfecting his care routine and setup.
 

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Beman

Chameleon Enthusiast
I have a 50 watt bulb in storage currently that I was using before, would that work? I actually upgraded to a 100w because I read that my temps of mid 70s and low 80s was too low somewhere and I was worried he wasn’t getting warm enough.
A photo of his back legs is attached below.
where do you recommend I get a cage like that? My location is pretty secluded and the only pet store that has decent stuff is Petsmart about an hour away so I get most of my things online or secondhand (very rarely, the hobby is rare around here).

also, do you recommend a glass or screen enclosure for the new one?

also! I just checked on him after I got home from work and that bruising/discoloration is completely gone today. He readily came out onto my hand when I offered him crickets on his tweezers. He’ll be eating more today and now on as you mentioned for sure

Your information was really descriptive and great, I’ll definitely be tweaking and perfecting his care routine and setup.
So I seriously doubt right now your temps are as low as they are with the 100 watt bulb because of the analog gauge. Buy a wired gauge with probe and hook it in below the basking fixture. This will give you an accurate reading. I would reduce to the 50 watt. I only run 60 watt bulbs and I have much more distance between basking then you do and mine hit 80 without issue.

Definitely a little boy.

Try not to use tweezers. Only your fingers to hold food. Using a cup would be a really good idea then he does not have to hand feed and can eat as much as he wants.

You will need to order the enclosure online. I do not like the glass enclosures they are harder for new keepers to stabilize temps and humidity. So either a hybrid or screen. My favorite cages are made by dragon strand. They have drip pans and ledges to attach branches and pots to. www.dragonstrand.com
Otherwise you will need to try to find something in stock online. Either a wide format or tall. But what he is in is not conducive to what he needs at this stage.

This is a good resource for you to learn accurate info. https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-husbandry-program-getting-started-with-chameleons/
 

Grainy86

Member
Only your fingers to hold food. Using a cup would be a really good idea then he does not have to hand feed and can eat as much as he wants.
I use a feeding cup sometimes when I’m low on time because he takes them faster there. I have difficulty keeping hold on the crickets with my fingers but I’ll try :)

I have two types of thermometers technically. One that’s analog like you said and what I think you mean when you said wired with a digital display. It came with one of the supplies when I ordered it (I can’t remember what). The temps I gave you were from that gauge and not the analog

I’m turning off the basking light for a bit to let it cool so I can’t change it without a hospital trip and then I’ll replace it with the 50 watt.
 

Grainy86

Member
My favorite cages are made by dragon strand. They have drip pans and ledges to attach branches and pots to.
I really love their cages too but they are out of my budget atm. I’m a full time student working a part time job so I’m not exactly swimming in it right now haha. I’m definitely down for DIYing it or doing some work with a cheaper cage as I have some experience with assembling and repairing aquarium tanks and other enclosures for family and friends (another hobby of mine). Any suggestions?
 

Beman

Chameleon Enthusiast
I really love their cages too but they are out of my budget atm. I’m a full time student working a part time job so I’m not exactly swimming in it right now haha. I’m definitely down for DIYing it or doing some work with a cheaper cage as I have some experience with assembling and repairing aquarium tanks and other enclosures for family and friends (another hobby of mine). Any suggestions?
call DIY cages and ask when their 2x2x4 enclosures will be back in stock. They are better then reptibreeze https://www.diycages.com/collections/vertical-screen-reptile-chameleon-cages
This place is out of stock too but you can sign up to be notified when it comes in https://www.joshsfrogs.com/zoo-med-reptibreeze-aluminum-screen-cage-x-large-24x24x48.html

I did find this one on amazon.... https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Rept...=1&keywords=screen+cage&qid=1624470064&sr=8-2

UVB lighting you will have a hard time finding right now as well. You can buy this fixture in the 24 inch https://www.pangeareptile.com/store/t5-uvb-light-fixture.html
And this bulb in the 22 inch. https://www.pangeareptile.com/store/arcadia-6-uvb-t5-reptile-bulb.html
 
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