New Veiled

Ash

New Member
Hey all

As some of you know my recently purchased Fischers Chameleon died on Wednesday. He was still under a guarantee, so I took him back to the pet shop and got a Large male Veiled Chameleon given to me. He's about 8inch from snout to the beginning of his tail.

He's had no problems so far apart from a few little things.. He's dark in colour. I've read that they do this when stressed, or nervous, or threatened etc.

He's in a 38" x 15" x 15" full mesh vivarium, with a 60w heat lamp and a 40w sun glow UV lamp. I've got a fogger at the bottom of the viv, a real plant, 3 fake leaf plants and 2 branches bend around the vivarium. Temperature at the top is 80-95F, and humidity is 50-60. I spray twice a dya for about 3 minutes, once when I wake up (8-9am) and when I turn his light off (10pm)

He's started to shed since I've had him, could this be a reason for the lack of colour?

Thank you all

Ash
 
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Hey Ash,

I'm a junior member here so take my advice with salt.

My veiled didn't settle down for about two weeks. Meaning he was dark colored and constantly hiding for two weeks. Maybe a little less. He eventually chilled out.

I would suggest misting him longer and using some kind of drip system. I've had a lot of success with that.

Shedding is supposed to be a sign of health so that's a good thing.
 

Ash

New Member
Yeah I do have a drip system, only a cricket tray with holes in the bottom though.

I will try spraying for longer :)

Thank you

Ash
 

Jordan

New Member
You will need a light that produces UVb. Sun-glo lights do not to my knowledge. I would get some that produces 5%(5.0) or better.

At the size your chameleon is currently at he should be in an adult cage. 2'x2'x4' is about the minimual recommendation as far as sizes go.

Chameleons do get dark when they are about to shed. I have a hunch that he is not happy with his cage. Males, especially veileds get territorial and should have room to roam around. Makes them feel secure.

Again at that size you should watering more. Maybe twice to three times a day for 10-12 minutes at a time.

I would recommend supplements too. One that is calcium, the next is calcium with D3 (on phosphorus) and a multivitamin.

You can do a little more searching on this site to get more specific answers.
 

Ash

New Member
Ok thank you.

Well the viv is actually 38"h, and 16.5" back and wide.

I am using supplements. The crickets/ locust are feeding on carrot and watercress, and with a reptavite (sp?) cricket food. I have calcium dusting powder aswell, which i will sprinkle on twice a week.

He was in a viv alot smaller before I bought him, was only about 16" high. He was bright green and yellow etc. there.

So shes given me the wrong light? It produces UVa lighting.

Thanks again

Ash
 

kinyonga

Chameleon Queen
Here are some sites that give good information...
http://adcham.com/
http://www.chameleonnews.com/
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/skintests.htm
http://web.archive.org/web/20060502...rnals.com/vet/index.php?show=5.Vitamin.A.html

Do you know about gutloading and feeding the insects a nutritious diet?

With veileds, since most insects we use have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorous, I dust at most feedings with a phos.-free calcium powder to make up for it.

I dust twice a month with a vitamin powder that has a beta carotene source of vitamin A. Beta carotene won't build up in the system but preformed vitamin A will. There is controversy about whether chameleons can convert beta carotene to vitamin A...so some people give a little preformed once in a while. Excess preformed vitamin A can prevent the D3 from doing its job and lead to MBD...so caution is advised.

Exposure to UVB light allows the chameleon to produce vitamin D3 which allows it to use the calcium in its diet. The UVB can either be from direct sunlight or from a UVB tube light. The sunlight is better of course...so because my chameleons don't often get direct sunlight, I dust a couple of times a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic.

Appropriate temperatures (which you seem to have) are important for good digestion which allows for good absorption of nutrients from the diet.

Good hydration is important too, of course!

Hope you enjoy your new chameleon!
 

Ash

New Member
Thanks very much, I've read alot about gut loading etc. and have a printed off list of items to feed the crickets and the right supplements use!

I'm just worried about my bulb now.. it's a Exo-Terra 40W Sun-Glo. It says it produces UVA light. Do I need UVb?

Thank you

Ash
 

Electric

New Member
yup you need it , can be obtained using fluorescent tubes such as exo-terra repti glo's or zoo med reptisuns (which are apparently better)
 

Ash

New Member
Ok cool, I'll try pick one up tommorow. Are they like fish tank flouro's? I.e same starter?

Just I have a few spare starters. Whats the name of them? and 5.0 right?

Ash
 

Tygerr

Avid Member
Ash, since you already have the cham, it's a bit late to be finding out all these things now. You need to start doing some serious reading.

Read all of those sites that Kinyonga listed.

As a starter, read everything at The Chameleon's Dish. The section on 'heat & light' has nice pictures of all the bulbs and other equipment you need (so you can be sure to get the right one at the pet store).
 

Ash

New Member
Yeah, I didn't mean to get the wrong bulb. I asked the person there what I needed and thats what I got.

I'm sorry im just beginning!

Ash
 

Cherron

New Member
I also wouldn't mist the cage just as the lights are going out. I like to mist mine around 2 hours after the lights come on so my chameleons have a chance to warm up before I soak everything and then again in the afternoon. If the cage doesn't have a chance to dry between mistings and overnight, then the standing water makes it very easy for bacteria and mold to develop, doing potential harm to your chameleon's health. I try to mist for at least 5 minutes at a time.. and usually up to ten. It really does take a few minutes before they realize that it is time to drink and then a few minutes to get their fill.

The dark coloring could be from stress (i would try not to handle him AT ALL for a few days.. even weeks). It could also be because his temperatures are too low. What are his temperatures in his basking spot? In the rest of the cage? Do you have a digital thermometer with a probe or a temp gun?

Most keepers here recommend the Reptisun 5.0 bulbs for a UVB bulb. Remember that these bulbs have to be replaced every six months.

Don't be afraid to ask questions Ash. I know it may seem like a few people are a little snippy, but everyone is here for the same purpose.. they love chameleons and want to be sure that they are being taken care of as well as is possible :)
 
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Ash

New Member
Thank you Cherron, I understand that.

All good advice from everyone, thank you :D

His basking spot temp is aroun 90F, lower down the tank is down to 70F. Humidity is 70.

I'm off to work now, but going to the shop after to grab my bulb.

Thank you again

Ash
 
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Ash

New Member
Went to the shop today, got him a bulb which I studied for a while making sure it was the right one.

I also got him 2 more vines and another fake plant.

Came back this evening and he was sat in the middle of the viv, brightly green coloured :) So he's not hiding and has his colour back. I'll see if he wants to eat tommorow!

Thank you all very much.

And Cherron I understand the comment I know it may seem like a few people are a little snippy, but everyone is here for the same purpose.. as it's exactly the same with me on new people over on my piranha forum. Just looking out for the creatures, all to do with learning :D

Ash

EDIT/UPDATE: He just ate 3 Locust. He must be settling in :)
 
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