Losing an adult panther?

[Zach Valois]

Chameleon Info:

Your Chameleon - BB Ambilobe, adult male, approx 14 months. Had the animal for about two weeks.
Handling - Almost never, except when moving him to females.
Feeding - General commercial cricket gutload, food offered daily or every other day. Animal is only taking 2-4 crickets every couple of days.
Supplements - Rep-cal twice a week, Rep-cal multi vit once a week,
Watering - Heavy hand misting 2-3 times a day, with a medium size waterfall in cage.
Fecal Description - Never been tested, only one stool has been passed in my care and was very light and solid in appearance (almost looked like a pinkie mouse in appearance).
History - Not entirely sure on this animal. Purchased from Lauren at LLL. Was told he was a CB 14 month old male. Has bred with two of my females.


Cage Info:

Cage Type - 24x24x36 Screen.
Lighting - 12 hour photoperiod. Reptisun 10.0 (Tyler suggested going with this over a 5.0) compact flour, 100 infrared bulb.
Temperature -Average day ambient of 78-82, basking site around 94-98, night low of 65-70.
Humidity - not monitored. We have several other panthers of all ages doing fine in the same conditions. Likely 65-80%.
Plants - Fake plants only.
Placement - In a private reptile room, mostly with montane species and other panthers.
Location - Salt Lake City, Utah.


Current Problem - apathetic behavior, lack of appetite, usually holding one eye closed (no eye problems apparent, just closing eyes). Color is good, and the animal responds normally to females.

Sincere thanks. It is rather disappointing to see such a large and reportedly young male appear to be going downhill.....

 

[javsto]

since you've had him for such a short amount of time you should contact the breeder/seller and see if they can help you out with getting a new cham, either by changing out the sick one for a healthier one or atleast giving you a discount one a new one considering they sold you a sick chameleon.

 

[Rune]

Chameleon Info:

Your Chameleon - BB Ambilobe, adult male, approx 14 months. Had the animal for about two weeks.
Handling - Almost never, except when moving him to females.
Feeding - General commercial cricket gutload,(TRY SOME CARROTS AND DANDELION LEAVES TOO ) food offered daily or every other day. Animal is only taking 2-4 crickets every couple of days.
Supplements - Rep-cal twice a week(WITHOUT D3?), Rep-cal multi vit once a week, (MULTI VITAMIN SHOULD BE FED 2 A MONTH)
Watering - Heavy hand misting 2-3 times a day, with a medium size waterfall in cage.
Fecal Description - Never been tested, only one stool has been passed in my care and was very light and solid in appearance (almost looked like a pinkie mouse in appearance).
History - Not entirely sure on this animal. Purchased from Lauren at LLL. Was told he was a CB 14 month old male. Has bred with two of my females.


Cage Info:

Cage Type - 24x24x36 Screen.
Lighting - 12 hour photoperiod. Reptisun 10.0 (Tyler suggested going with this over a 5.0) compact flour, 100 infrared bulb. (IF ITS COMPACT IT MIGHT HURT HIS EYES)
Temperature -Average day ambient of 78-82, basking site around 94-98, night low of 65-70.
Humidity - not monitored. We have several other panthers of all ages doing fine in the same conditions. Likely 65-80%.
Plants - Fake plants only.
Placement - In a private reptile room, mostly with montane species and other panthers. (HE CANT SEE ANY OTHER ANIMAL RIGHT?)
Location - Salt Lake City, Utah.

 

[xVashtaNeradax]

Get rid of the waterfall and get a dripper. Waterfalls are perfect breeding grounds for bacteria.

 

[kinyonga]

Was he like this from the day you got him or has he changed to be like this?
You could try removing the compact UVB light to see if it makes a difference.

 

[ataraxia]

Chameleon Info:

Your Chameleon - BB Ambilobe, adult male, approx 14 months. Had the animal for about two weeks.
Handling - Almost never, except when moving him to females.
Feeding - General commercial cricket gutload, food offered daily or every other day. Animal is only taking 2-4 crickets every couple of days.
Supplements - Rep-cal twice a week, Rep-cal multi vit once a week,Plain phos free calcium every feeding, calc with d3 twice a month, multivit twice a month
Watering - Heavy hand misting 2-3 times a day, with a medium size waterfall in cage.
Fecal Description - Never been tested, only one stool has been passed in my care and was very light and solid in appearance (almost looked like a pinkie mouse in appearance).
History - Not entirely sure on this animal. Purchased from Lauren at LLL. Was told he was a CB 14 month old male. Has bred with two of my females.


Cage Info:

Cage Type - 24x24x36 Screen.
Lighting - 12 hour photoperiod. Reptisun 10.0 (Tyler suggested going with this over a 5.0) compact flour, 100 infrared bulb.change CFL for a linear tube. change the infrared for a normal household bulb.
Temperature -Average day ambient of 78-82, basking site around 94-98, night low of 65-70.BASKING TEMP NEEDS TO DROP! to 90*
Humidity - not monitored. We have several other panthers of all ages doing fine in the same conditions. Likely 65-80%.
Plants - Fake plants only.
Placement - In a private reptile room, mostly with montane species and other panthers.whats the basking spot on your montane species>?
Location - Salt Lake City, Utah.


Current Problem - apathetic behavior, lack of appetite, usually holding one eye closed (no eye problems apparent, just closing eyes). Color is good, and the animal responds normally to females.

Sincere thanks. It is rather disappointing to see such a large and reportedly young male appear to be going downhill.....

from experience one eye closed usually means lighting problems and or supplement problems: gutload your crickets with green leafy veggies. try supplementing with reptivite twice a month. if you are familiar with force feeding. i would personally draw 1.0ml of pedialyte with pinch of reptivite. mix and feed. and change your lights.

https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/ataraxia/404-common-eye-problems-solutions.html

 

[Mr Wilson]

Chameleon Info:

Your Chameleon - BB Ambilobe, adult male, approx 14 months. Had the animal for about two weeks.
Handling - Almost never, except when moving him to females.
Feeding - General commercial cricket gutload, food offered daily or every other day. Animal is only taking 2-4 crickets every couple of days.
Supplements - Rep-cal twice a week, Rep-cal multi vit once a week,
Watering - Heavy hand misting 2-3 times a day, with a medium size waterfall in cage.
Fecal Description - Never been tested, only one stool has been passed in my care and was very light and solid in appearance (almost looked like a pinkie mouse in appearance).
History - Not entirely sure on this animal. Purchased from Lauren at LLL. Was told he was a CB 14 month old male. Has bred with two of my females.


Cage Info:

Cage Type - 24x24x36 Screen.
Lighting - 12 hour photoperiod. Reptisun 10.0 (Tyler suggested going with this over a 5.0) compact flour, 100 infrared bulb.
Temperature -Average day ambient of 78-82, basking site around 94-98, night low of 65-70.
Humidity - not monitored. We have several other panthers of all ages doing fine in the same conditions. Likely 65-80%.
Plants - Fake plants only.
Placement - In a private reptile room, mostly with montane species and other panthers.
Location - Salt Lake City, Utah.


Current Problem - apathetic behavior, lack of appetite, usually holding one eye closed (no eye problems apparent, just closing eyes). Color is good, and the animal responds normally to females.

Sincere thanks. It is rather disappointing to see such a large and reportedly young male appear to be going downhill.....

As said i would def get rid of the waterfall. Except for looks there's really no need for it. I would also change your dusting regimen to cal almost every day, cal w/ d3 twice a month and multi vit twice a month. Personally id ditch the 10.0 and the inferred bulb to a 5.0 linear fluorescent and a 60-75wat incandescent buld. I know you said you've been having luck w/ this setup but trying a few changes might not hurt. Only thing else would be gutload those crickets good with green veggies. Commercial gutload alone is not good enough. oh and also pinkish poop can be an early sign of dehydration, maybe add an extra hand misting or two because unless a rarity your cham isn't drinking from the moving or sitting water of the waterfall.

 

[Zach Valois]

Well thanks a lot for the input guys. Some quick simple fixes that will help me in the future. I have hope for this animal, as I imagine that he was taxed by stress, dehydration, and breeding him too soon after I brought him in. I did not anticipate such issues. He was looking pretty good when I selected him.

You guys are appreciated.

Although, I'm still torn between 10.0 compacts, 5.0 compacts, and tube flourescents.

 

[Rune]

Well thanks a lot for the input guys. Some quick simple fixes that will help me in the future. I have hope for this animal, as I imagine that he was taxed by stress, dehydration, and breeding him too soon after I brought him in. I did not anticipate such issues. He was looking pretty good when I selected him.

You guys are appreciated.

Although, I'm still torn between 10.0 compacts, 5.0 compacts, and tube flourescents.

5.0 Tube.
Its called Reptisun 5.0. Its the same as the compact basicly but its a tube.

 

[Mr Wilson]

Well thanks a lot for the input guys. Some quick simple fixes that will help me in the future. I have hope for this animal, as I imagine that he was taxed by stress, dehydration, and breeding him too soon after I brought him in. I did not anticipate such issues. He was looking pretty good when I selected him.

You guys are appreciated.

Although, I'm still torn between 10.0 compacts, 5.0 compacts, and tube flourescents.

There's been a few heated debates on the whole 10.0 vs 5.0. UVB being filtered by screening, distance between bulb and cham, He said she said, yadi yadi ya. General consensus is 5.0 is preferred. majority of members myself included use 5.0 tubes with no problems, Theres also a few members that use 10.0 with no problems as well. Really only way to know for sure is to buy a uvb meter and monitor regularly if your willing to dish out the green for one. My only experience with CFL's was a bad one so i'll say just do yourself a favor and get linear fluorescent fixture if you dont have one already

 

[Zach Valois]

All very great points. I like finally seeing some straight info piece together [in my mind].

I sold my snake collection off the last few years and chams are my next planned project. I think I am going to go with linear flour for my cham room. I planned to be at 10 producing panther females. Along with various montane stuff, more or less for the amusement and challenge.

In regards to someones question on my montane basking temps, it is hard to say what the peak possible temp is for a basking animal. As they (quads, cristatus, multi, etc) almost never bask fully. I had such adverse reactions with my male quads (in 24x24x36 exo's) to 40 watt incandescents, that in most of my montane cages, I run only a single compact 5.0. Like I said, they almost never fully bask, which if they needed a warmer basking spot, I would think they would be hugging the heat. Their body temps when basking to any degree is usually 78-80 at best. Any further comments or suggestions are greatly appreciated!

Thanks again guys!

 

[jpm995]

I would bring him to a vet and get his feces checked. The symptoms sound like he could have internal parasites as they sap his energy. He could infect your females also. Chams tend to go downhill quickly when they display symptoms of illness. Hopefully its only stress from moveing and getting used to his new enviornment but why chance it.