Juvenile Veiled acting strange.

[Camo101]

This is the first time we’ve owned a chameleon and we got it from Pet Smart as a juvenile. His name is Camo and everything was fine until a few weeks ago he had these symptoms: Eyes shut during day, sneezing and contortion of body and the mouth would stay open a little along with a poor appetite. This was after it shed which went okay. So we decided to take it to the vet. He almost got better himself and the vet said he was fine and that if it had anything then it worked it out itself. However one symptom didn’t stop which has been the eyes being closed. So we also started controlling the amount of vitamin and calcium dust we had given him. Could anyone give dusting recommendations for a juvenile veiled? The Vet said that it was around 13 weeks old. He has 12 hours of light which is a 50w Repti Basking Spot Lamp and a Reptisun 5.0 UVB about 10 inches from the top of the cage. His basking spot is usually 85 and the humidity is always 50-60. We hand mist and also have a Monson Solo II. I am also growing pothouse plants organically for him.It’s a screen mesh cage 3’ by 16” by 16”. With paper towels at the bottom. He only eats one too three crickets a day. I have seen people say 7-10 a day but with countless effort he refuses to eat after the few he does. He also does drink well and often. Could it be malnourished? Also his eyes still will shut during the day from time to time or they will squint. The vet said our first basking bulb light was not good to use I will attach an image of it. Could his eyes just be damaged now? It did come with the Chameleon kit we bought. Also on top of the eye issue he just today started to sit vertical with his mouth gaped a little bit. I will attach images. Thanks! (We might go to the vet again soon if nothing improves)

 

[Beman]

You need a new vet that knows reptiles. This baby is dying slowly.

Issues I see right off the top are the baby is not getting any uvb with the compact bulb. Especially with it lifted so far away from the cage. These are not recommended for chameleons. You need a T5HO fixture with a 5.0 or 6% linear bulb. And this should be set on the cage with 8-9 inches to basking... OR raised but you still need a total of 8-9 inches to the branch below it if you raise the fixture off the top.

The blue bulb was more then ok. Your vet does not know enough about their husbandry.

How often are you using the supplements? Reptivite with D3 should only be used 2 times a month say the 1st and the 15th the calcium without D3 would be used at all other feedings. Lightly dusting supplements on all feeders given.

Baby should be eating much much more taking down 20 a day should be no problem with a healthy baby. They must be size appropriate feeders (1/4 inch for your baby) and alive. But wrong uvb can impact their appetite.

Now the sneezing and how the baby is holding its head up indicates a respiratory infection...

So like I said a good reptile vet that actually knows about them is what you need. You can try using this link to see if you can find one near you https://arav.site-ym.com/search/custom.asp?id=3661

Here is a link that will teach you all about proper husbandry https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-husbandry-program-getting-started-with-chameleons/

 

[Camo101]

You need a new vet that knows reptiles. This baby is dying slowly.

Issues I see right off the top are the baby is not getting any uvb with the compact bulb. Especially with it lifted so far away from the cage. These are not recommended for chameleons. You need a T5HO fixture with a 5.0 or 6% linear bulb. And this should be set on the cage with 8-9 inches to basking... OR raised but you still need a total of 8-9 inches to the branch below it if you raise the fixture off the top.

The blue bulb was more then ok. Your vet does not know enough about their husbandry.

How often are you using the supplements? Reptivite with D3 should only be used 2 times a month say the 1st and the 15th the calcium without D3 would be used at all other feedings. Lightly dusting supplements on all feeders given.

Baby should be eating much much more taking down 20 a day should be no problem with a healthy baby. They must be size appropriate feeders (1/4 inch for your baby) and alive. But wrong uvb can impact their appetite.

Now the sneezing and how the baby is holding its head up indicates a respiratory infection...

So like I said a good reptile vet that actually knows about them is what you need. You can try using this link to see if you can find one near you https://arav.site-ym.com/search/custom.asp?id=3661

Here is a link that will teach you all about proper husbandry https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-husbandry-program-getting-started-with-chameleons/

Alright I want to clarify a few things after the vet visit which was an exotics veterinarian at VCA, he still closed his eyes occasionally. He has not sneezed or gasped and he hasn’t contorted his body in pain. Do you have an idea of what sickness it might be, if say the vet knew what they were doing. They did a close inspection and examined his eyes and said they looked fine. He is also active a lot and does bask for quite sometime.

 

[MissSkittles]

Unfortunately there are many exotics vets who have little knowledge and experience with chameleons. It is not good at all that your little one is keeping his eyes closed. It is not an eye issue necessarily, but a sign that he is very sick. Younger chameleons are very fragile and sensitive to even the smallest of errors in husbandry. Your little guy doesn’t look good at all and it’s possible his body contortions could be neurological rather than from pain. We can and would love to help you get your sweet little one on the path to good health. Naturally we can’t provide proper veterinary care, but we can help you get your husbandry perfect to give your baby his best fighting chance. If you can answer the following questions, we can look over all you are doing and perhaps find what may be the problem.

Chameleon Info:

• Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
• Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
• Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
• Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
• Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
• Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
• History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
• Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
• Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
• Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
• Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
• Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
• Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:

1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
2. Photos can be very helpful.

 

[kinyonga]

I only ever use white light for chameleons. Blue light can damage the eyes of humans and animals...so I am assuming it might damage chameleon eyes as well....so just in case, I never use them. So far I have no study to prove it damages their eyes though.
I assume your vet could tell since he examined the eyes, if there was any damage.

What size are the insects you feed to your chameleon?
Is he pooping? Did the vet do a fecal test?
What are you feeding/gutloading the insects with?

Your chameleon is not doing well at all. He's pretty close to death IMHO...sorry to say that.

 

[Beman]

Alright I want to clarify a few things after the vet visit which was an exotics veterinarian at VCA, he still closed his eyes occasionally. He has not sneezed or gasped and he hasn’t contorted his body in pain. Do you have an idea of what sickness it might be, if say the vet knew what they were doing. They did a close inspection and examined his eyes and said they looked fine. He is also active a lot and does bask for quite sometime.

Yes, and some vets still do not know enough about their husbandry. There is also the fact that they typically do not go through every detail including supplements and UVB. Your baby does not have the UVB it needs or the correct supplementation. This can kill them. Eyes closing, sleeping during the day, lack of appetite, lethargic, too thin. All of this can be directly linked to UVB and supplementation. These need to be fixed asap. Without fixing them the baby will die. See the info above that I gave you in my first post about what you need to buy and the distance it should sit from the highest basking branches. This is your first step... Fill out the husbandry form provided so that we can give you more feedback.

 

[Camo101]

I only ever use white light for chameleons. Blue light can damage the eyes of humans and animals...so I am assuming it might damage chameleon eyes as well....so just in case, I never use them. So far I have no study to prove it damages their eyes though.
I assume your vet could tell since he examined the eyes, if there was any damage.

What size are the insects you feed to your chameleon?
Is he pooping? Did the vet do a fecal test?
What are you feeding/gutloading the insects with?

Your chameleon is not doing well at all. He's pretty close to death IMHO...sorry to say that.

Yes, and some vets still do not know enough about their husbandry. There is also the fact that they typically do not go through every detail including supplements and UVB. Your baby does not have the UVB it needs or the correct supplementation. This can kill them. Eyes closing, sleeping during the day, lack of appetite, lethargic, too thin. All of this can be directly linked to UVB and supplementation. These need to be fixed asap. Without fixing them the baby will die. See the info above that I gave you in my first post about what you need to buy and the distance it should sit from the highest basking branches. This is your first step... Fill out the husbandry form provided so that we can give you more feedback.

We are changing the lighting to the one you provided and we are also bringing him to an exotics vet we found using the website provided. Thanks so much for your help today, I am also going over his husbandry and correcting details.

 

[SpicyOrchid]

His eyes aren’t only closed they are receding/sunken in.

I’m new to this myself. But the research I’ve done says not to over do it with supplements. And I had to change my lighting system from what the ReptiBreeze kit came with, to a 5.0 tropical uvb tube.

I did keep the blue heating bulb. He loves both. I keep the temp between 75-80. Humidity 40-60 both temp and humidity depending on time of day.

I let the ‘little dropper’ drip throughout the day very slow. At night when temps are lower I mist. Trying to mimic the outdoors.

He doesn’t seem to like mealy worms anymore. He likes wax worms, flys, and tiny crickets. Which I gut load with food that is enriched with calcium and nutrients. So I don’t have to worry about dusting so much (?) I question myself on the last part because I’m hoping that’s better than dusting every single feeding.
(asking community as well)


I hope he has a positive turn around
Good luck to you and Camo.

 

[Camo101]

Unfortunately there are many exotics vets who have little knowledge and experience with chameleons. It is not good at all that your little one is keeping his eyes closed. It is not an eye issue necessarily, but a sign that he is very sick. Younger chameleons are very fragile and sensitive to even the smallest of errors in husbandry. Your little guy doesn’t look good at all and it’s possible his body contortions could be neurological rather than from pain. We can and would love to help you get your sweet little one on the path to good health. Naturally we can’t provide proper veterinary care, but we can help you get your husbandry perfect to give your baby his best fighting chance. If you can answer the following questions, we can look over all you are doing and perhaps find what may be the problem.

Chameleon Info:

• Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
• Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
• Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
• Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
• Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
• Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
• History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
• Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
• Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
• Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
• Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
• Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
• Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:

1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
2. Photos can be very helpful.

Chameleon Info:

• Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
  - Veiled Chameleon, N/A for sex of chameleon, vet said 13 weeks. We have had it for 2 months.
• Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
  -Daily for a short period of time, doesn’t get upset at me if I put my hand in cage and climbs on my hand willingly.
• Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
  -Crickets, he doesn’t really want to eat the suggested amount but he eats about two a day on a good day. I feed the crickets fruit.
• Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
  - Zoo Med Repticalcium without D3 and Reptitve with D3. I dust every other cricket.
• Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking? Drinks from automatic misting system and hand misting from bottle. The automatic mister goes off every hour for about 16 seconds which keeps the humidity up around 50-60%. I do see my chameleon drink.
• Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites? It’s pretty watery and poop comes out first then the white stuff comes a few minutes after. No has not been tested.
• History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions? Screen Cage, 36 x16x16
• Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule? 12 hours of UVB and bask light, the uvb bulb is zoo med 5.0 reptisun uvb, reptibask 50 watts.
• Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps? Basking spot is between 85-90, cage floor is between 70-75. Lowest overnight temp is 70. Digital temperature gauges and basking spot has a probe temperature gauge.
• Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity? Humidity is between 50-60%, automatic misting system and hand misting. We use digital humidity gauges.
• Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind? We are growing pathos plants now soon to be in its cage.
• Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor? In my bedroom, no high traffic area and I do have a ceiling fan but the air flow never hits the cage. 5 1/2 feet off the floor.
• Location - Where are you geographically located? New England northeast, America.

 

[Camo101]

His eyes aren’t only closed they are receding/sunken in.

I’m new to this myself. But the research I’ve done says not to over do it with supplements. And I had to change my lighting system from what the ReptiBreeze kit came with, to a 5.0 tropical uvb tube.

I did keep the blue heating bulb. He loves both. I keep the temp between 75-80. Humidity 40-60 both temp and humidity depending on time of day.

I let the ‘little dropper’ drip throughout the day very slow. At night when temps are lower I mist. Trying to mimic the outdoors.

He doesn’t seem to like mealy worms anymore. He likes wax worms, flys, and tiny crickets. Which I gut load with food that is enriched with calcium and nutrients. So I don’t have to worry about dusting so much (?) I question myself on the last part because I’m hoping that’s better than dusting every single feeding.
(asking community as well)


I hope he has a positive turn around
Good luck to you and Camo.

Thank you very much for the help!

 

[SpicyOrchid]

Thank you very much for the help!

I forgot to add that I keep air flow going. Not blowing anything around but ‘juuuuust enough’

I basically treat his cage environment exactly the way I treat my orchids. 🌤️ 🌬

 

[SpicyOrchid]

Sorry I keep dipping in. But I just read a reply @FlickBoy gave me yesterday. Not to over do it with wax worms. They are meant as treats. I’m going to focus on crickets and the occasional fly (as I catch them- I live in Florida. All you gotta do is go outside and put your cup down. So… I’ve been able to catch one here and there lol)

 

[MissSkittles]

Give me a bit and I’ll give you a full husbandry review.

 

[ERKleRose]

@SpicyOrchid Quality-bred flies and other insects captive bred as feeders from reputable feeder companies are much better than wild-caught or poorly-bred ones. Don't recommend for people, especially newbies, to catch bugs outside without warning of parasites and diseases. Also, since you are new here, I'd recommend filling out the husbandry form yourself, as some of what you've been saying is incorrect. Then we can help you help out better, as well!

 

[MissSkittles]

I’ll be putting my feedback in red.

• Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
  - Veiled Chameleon, N/A for sex of chameleon, vet said 13 weeks. We have had it for 2 months. Responsible breeders won’t rehome their chams until at least 3-4 months old as younger ones can be fragile and some just fail to thrive.
• Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
  -Daily for a short period of time, doesn’t get upset at me if I put my hand in cage and climbs on my hand willingly.
• Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
  -Crickets, he doesn’t really want to eat the suggested amount but he eats about two a day on a good day. I feed the crickets fruit. This is way too little. He should be getting pretty much as much as he can eat in a 15 minute period, twice a day. The feeders need to be the correct size, which is anything smaller than the space between his eyes. There’s lots of different types of feeders, some may not be appropriate for his size right now. Attaching feeder sheet. Also attaching gutloading sheet. The better you feed your bugs, the healthier they are and more nutritious for your chameleon.
• Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
  - Zoo Med Repticalcium without D3 and Reptitve with D3. I dust every other cricket. You should be using the calcium without D3 at every feeding. The Reptivite with D3 is to be used for one feeding every other week. It is a multivitamin and D3 combo and some of the vitamins are fat soluble, meaning they can build up to toxic levels if given too often.
• Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking? Drinks from automatic misting system and hand misting from bottle. The automatic mister goes off every hour for about 16 seconds which keeps the humidity up around 50-60%. I do see my chameleon drink. Your enclosure needs to dry out in between mistings. Ideal humidity during the day is between 30-50%, which is rather dry. Is better to mist for about 2 minutes, 2-3 times a day. If you wish, you can use a dripper mid day for about 20-30 minutes for additional drinking source.
• Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites? It’s pretty watery and poop comes out first then the white stuff comes a few minutes after. No has not been tested. It’s always a good idea to have a fecal check for parasites. Some are quite serious.
• History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions? Screen Cage, 36 x16x16 This is fine for your little one right now. However, before you know it he’ll be full grown and needing at least a 2x2x4’ enclosure.
• Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule? 12 hours of UVB and bask light, the uvb bulb is zoo med 5.0 reptisun uvb, reptibask 50 watts. The 12 hour schedule is perfect! As has already been said, colored bulbs are bad for sensitive chameleon eyes. The screw in or light bulb type uvb is essentially useless at any distance farther than 2-3”. At the distance that you have, your chameleon isn’t getting any uvb and this is most likely one of his problems. Without uvb, he can’t synthesize natural D3 which is needed to convert calcium into a usable form. The standard for uvb is a linear T5 ho fixture with either a ReptiSun 5.0 or Arcadia 6% uvb bulb. I prefer Arcadia as they last for a year vs only 6 months for ReptiSun. Then the uvb light needs to be about 8-9” above basking area. You absolutely have the right idea about raising your lights above the enclosure. You’ll need to do the same with the linear uvb. This is a great light that comes with the bulb. https://www.pangeareptile.com/store/arcadia-prot5-uvb-kit.html I believe they are currently sold out of the 24” 6% one, but you may be able to find it at another vendor. Local pet stores rarely carry the correct uvb, so is best to buy on line.
• Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps? Basking spot is between 85-90, cage floor is between 70-75. Lowest overnight temp is 70. Digital temperature gauges and basking spot has a probe temperature gauge. For babies, it’s best to keep basking temps no higher than 80. Actually I keep all my chams around 80-82 as it’s been found it prolongs their lives.
• Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity? Humidity is between 50-60%, automatic misting system and hand misting. We use digital humidity gauges. I already touched on this. High humidity + high temps = respiratory infection risk. At night when temps drop, it is good to boost humidity to 80-100% if you can. This simulates the natural hydration they get in the wild through fog.
• Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind? We are growing pathos plants now soon to be in its cage. Perfect! Use only live plants as veileds eat their plants and have been known to eat fake leaves and get impacted. I hang my fake plants outside my enclosures. I’ll also attach the safe plant list.
• Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor? In my bedroom, no high traffic area and I do have a ceiling fan but the air flow never hits the cage. 5 1/2 feet off the floor. The higher they are above us, the safer they feel.
• Location - Where are you geographically located? New England northeast, America.
  

So I suspect the biggest problems your little one has is he’s malnourished and lacking adequate calcium. Due to this, it is possible that his body contortions are neurological as calcium fuels everything. Asap you need to get him the correct sized feeders and uvb light. As most pet stores only carry crickets that are likely to large, it would be best to order some on line. I use these guys and am very pleased. https://www.ghann.com/Live-Crickets...ABILITY-LIMITED-DUE-TO-HIGH-SALESspan-C2.aspx You could also for now get some bsfl (aka: calci worms, Phoenix worms) which are usually stocked by pet stores and see if those are small enough for him. Until you can get the correct uvb delivered, take him outside for some natural sun. Just be careful about having him in direct sunlight for more than a minute or two as he can quickly overheat. Dappled light is perfect. Hopefully, you’ve caught all of this quickly enough so that once you make the needed corrections, he can bounce right back.
If I’ve missed anything, I’m sure another member will catch it. Do make sure to check out chameleon academy as they are the leading source for proper care info and a whole lot more. Of course, we’re here to help you as we can, answering any questions and just offering support.

• 
  
  
  
  
  

 

[Camo101]

I’ll be putting my feedback in red.

• Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
  - Veiled Chameleon, N/A for sex of chameleon, vet said 13 weeks. We have had it for 2 months. Responsible breeders won’t rehome their chams until at least 3-4 months old as younger ones can be fragile and some just fail to thrive.
• Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
  -Daily for a short period of time, doesn’t get upset at me if I put my hand in cage and climbs on my hand willingly.
• Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
  -Crickets, he doesn’t really want to eat the suggested amount but he eats about two a day on a good day. I feed the crickets fruit. This is way too little. He should be getting pretty much as much as he can eat in a 15 minute period, twice a day. The feeders need to be the correct size, which is anything smaller than the space between his eyes. There’s lots of different types of feeders, some may not be appropriate for his size right now. Attaching feeder sheet. Also attaching gutloading sheet. The better you feed your bugs, the healthier they are and more nutritious for your chameleon.
• Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
  - Zoo Med Repticalcium without D3 and Reptitve with D3. I dust every other cricket. You should be using the calcium without D3 at every feeding. The Reptivite with D3 is to be used for one feeding every other week. It is a multivitamin and D3 combo and some of the vitamins are fat soluble, meaning they can build up to toxic levels if given too often.
• Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking? Drinks from automatic misting system and hand misting from bottle. The automatic mister goes off every hour for about 16 seconds which keeps the humidity up around 50-60%. I do see my chameleon drink. Your enclosure needs to dry out in between mistings. Ideal humidity during the day is between 30-50%, which is rather dry. Is better to mist for about 2 minutes, 2-3 times a day. If you wish, you can use a dripper mid day for about 20-30 minutes for additional drinking source.
• Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites? It’s pretty watery and poop comes out first then the white stuff comes a few minutes after. No has not been tested. It’s always a good idea to have a fecal check for parasites. Some are quite serious.
• History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions? Screen Cage, 36 x16x16 This is fine for your little one right now. However, before you know it he’ll be full grown and needing at least a 2x2x4’ enclosure.
• Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule? 12 hours of UVB and bask light, the uvb bulb is zoo med 5.0 reptisun uvb, reptibask 50 watts. The 12 hour schedule is perfect! As has already been said, colored bulbs are bad for sensitive chameleon eyes. The screw in or light bulb type uvb is essentially useless at any distance farther than 2-3”. At the distance that you have, your chameleon isn’t getting any uvb and this is most likely one of his problems. Without uvb, he can’t synthesize natural D3 which is needed to convert calcium into a usable form. The standard for uvb is a linear T5 ho fixture with either a ReptiSun 5.0 or Arcadia 6% uvb bulb. I prefer Arcadia as they last for a year vs only 6 months for ReptiSun. Then the uvb light needs to be about 8-9” above basking area. You absolutely have the right idea about raising your lights above the enclosure. You’ll need to do the same with the linear uvb. This is a great light that comes with the bulb. https://www.pangeareptile.com/store/arcadia-prot5-uvb-kit.html I believe they are currently sold out of the 24” 6% one, but you may be able to find it at another vendor. Local pet stores rarely carry the correct uvb, so is best to buy on line.
• Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps? Basking spot is between 85-90, cage floor is between 70-75. Lowest overnight temp is 70. Digital temperature gauges and basking spot has a probe temperature gauge. For babies, it’s best to keep basking temps no higher than 80. Actually I keep all my chams around 80-82 as it’s been found it prolongs their lives.
• Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity? Humidity is between 50-60%, automatic misting system and hand misting. We use digital humidity gauges. I already touched on this. High humidity + high temps = respiratory infection risk. At night when temps drop, it is good to boost humidity to 80-100% if you can. This simulates the natural hydration they get in the wild through fog.
• Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind? We are growing pathos plants now soon to be in its cage. Perfect! Use only live plants as veileds eat their plants and have been known to eat fake leaves and get impacted. I hang my fake plants outside my enclosures. I’ll also attach the safe plant list.
• Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor? In my bedroom, no high traffic area and I do have a ceiling fan but the air flow never hits the cage. 5 1/2 feet off the floor. The higher they are above us, the safer they feel.
• Location - Where are you geographically located? New England northeast, America.

So I suspect the biggest problems your little one has is he’s malnourished and lacking adequate calcium. Due to this, it is possible that his body contortions are neurological as calcium fuels everything. Asap you need to get him the correct sized feeders and uvb light. As most pet stores only carry crickets that are likely to large, it would be best to order some on line. I use these guys and am very pleased. https://www.ghann.com/Live-Crickets...ABILITY-LIMITED-DUE-TO-HIGH-SALESspan-C2.aspx You could also for now get some bsfl (aka: calci worms, Phoenix worms) which are usually stocked by pet stores and see if those are small enough for him. Until you can get the correct uvb delivered, take him outside for some natural sun. Just be careful about having him in direct sunlight for more than a minute or two as he can quickly overheat. Dappled light is perfect. Hopefully, you’ve caught all of this quickly enough so that once you make the needed corrections, he can bounce right back.
If I’ve missed anything, I’m sure another member will catch it. Do make sure to check out chameleon academy as they are the leading source for proper care info and a whole lot more. Of course, we’re here to help you as we can, answering any questions and just offering support.

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Thanks so much for the help we are getting a 14” linear T5HO bulb for it. We are also adjusting the supplements to a fine wired schedule, do you have any tip on how to get him to want to eat more?

 

[MissSkittles]

Thanks so much for the help we are getting a 14” linear T5HO bulb for it. We are also adjusting the supplements to a fine wired schedule, do you have any tip on how to get him to want to eat more?

Just get appropriately sized feeders and keep offering them.

 

[Beman]

And the proper uvb at the correct distance. The correct UVB will up the babies appetite. Then you will be able to get it to eat the correct amounts of properly supplemented feeders.

 

[kinyonga]

Right now you should be able to get him outside for some real UVB as suggested rather than just leaving him under the wrong light or no UVB at all.

 

[Camo101]

I’ll be putting my feedback in red.

• Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
  - Veiled Chameleon, N/A for sex of chameleon, vet said 13 weeks. We have had it for 2 months. Responsible breeders won’t rehome their chams until at least 3-4 months old as younger ones can be fragile and some just fail to thrive.
• Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
  -Daily for a short period of time, doesn’t get upset at me if I put my hand in cage and climbs on my hand willingly.
• Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
  -Crickets, he doesn’t really want to eat the suggested amount but he eats about two a day on a good day. I feed the crickets fruit. This is way too little. He should be getting pretty much as much as he can eat in a 15 minute period, twice a day. The feeders need to be the correct size, which is anything smaller than the space between his eyes. There’s lots of different types of feeders, some may not be appropriate for his size right now. Attaching feeder sheet. Also attaching gutloading sheet. The better you feed your bugs, the healthier they are and more nutritious for your chameleon.
• Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
  - Zoo Med Repticalcium without D3 and Reptitve with D3. I dust every other cricket. You should be using the calcium without D3 at every feeding. The Reptivite with D3 is to be used for one feeding every other week. It is a multivitamin and D3 combo and some of the vitamins are fat soluble, meaning they can build up to toxic levels if given too often.
• Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking? Drinks from automatic misting system and hand misting from bottle. The automatic mister goes off every hour for about 16 seconds which keeps the humidity up around 50-60%. I do see my chameleon drink. Your enclosure needs to dry out in between mistings. Ideal humidity during the day is between 30-50%, which is rather dry. Is better to mist for about 2 minutes, 2-3 times a day. If you wish, you can use a dripper mid day for about 20-30 minutes for additional drinking source.
• Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites? It’s pretty watery and poop comes out first then the white stuff comes a few minutes after. No has not been tested. It’s always a good idea to have a fecal check for parasites. Some are quite serious.
• History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions? Screen Cage, 36 x16x16 This is fine for your little one right now. However, before you know it he’ll be full grown and needing at least a 2x2x4’ enclosure.
• Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule? 12 hours of UVB and bask light, the uvb bulb is zoo med 5.0 reptisun uvb, reptibask 50 watts. The 12 hour schedule is perfect! As has already been said, colored bulbs are bad for sensitive chameleon eyes. The screw in or light bulb type uvb is essentially useless at any distance farther than 2-3”. At the distance that you have, your chameleon isn’t getting any uvb and this is most likely one of his problems. Without uvb, he can’t synthesize natural D3 which is needed to convert calcium into a usable form. The standard for uvb is a linear T5 ho fixture with either a ReptiSun 5.0 or Arcadia 6% uvb bulb. I prefer Arcadia as they last for a year vs only 6 months for ReptiSun. Then the uvb light needs to be about 8-9” above basking area. You absolutely have the right idea about raising your lights above the enclosure. You’ll need to do the same with the linear uvb. This is a great light that comes with the bulb. https://www.pangeareptile.com/store/arcadia-prot5-uvb-kit.html I believe they are currently sold out of the 24” 6% one, but you may be able to find it at another vendor. Local pet stores rarely carry the correct uvb, so is best to buy on line.
• Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps? Basking spot is between 85-90, cage floor is between 70-75. Lowest overnight temp is 70. Digital temperature gauges and basking spot has a probe temperature gauge. For babies, it’s best to keep basking temps no higher than 80. Actually I keep all my chams around 80-82 as it’s been found it prolongs their lives.
• Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity? Humidity is between 50-60%, automatic misting system and hand misting. We use digital humidity gauges. I already touched on this. High humidity + high temps = respiratory infection risk. At night when temps drop, it is good to boost humidity to 80-100% if you can. This simulates the natural hydration they get in the wild through fog.
• Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind? We are growing pathos plants now soon to be in its cage. Perfect! Use only live plants as veileds eat their plants and have been known to eat fake leaves and get impacted. I hang my fake plants outside my enclosures. I’ll also attach the safe plant list.
• Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor? In my bedroom, no high traffic area and I do have a ceiling fan but the air flow never hits the cage. 5 1/2 feet off the floor. The higher they are above us, the safer they feel.
• Location - Where are you geographically located? New England northeast, America.

So I suspect the biggest problems your little one has is he’s malnourished and lacking adequate calcium. Due to this, it is possible that his body contortions are neurological as calcium fuels everything. Asap you need to get him the correct sized feeders and uvb light. As most pet stores only carry crickets that are likely to large, it would be best to order some on line. I use these guys and am very pleased. https://www.ghann.com/Live-Crickets...ABILITY-LIMITED-DUE-TO-HIGH-SALESspan-C2.aspx You could also for now get some bsfl (aka: calci worms, Phoenix worms) which are usually stocked by pet stores and see if those are small enough for him. Until you can get the correct uvb delivered, take him outside for some natural sun. Just be careful about having him in direct sunlight for more than a minute or two as he can quickly overheat. Dappled light is perfect. Hopefully, you’ve caught all of this quickly enough so that once you make the needed corrections, he can bounce right back.
If I’ve missed anything, I’m sure another member will catch it. Do make sure to check out chameleon academy as they are the leading source for proper care info and a whole lot more. Of course, we’re here to help you as we can, answering any questions and just offering support.

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how come during the day high humidity and high temperature can cause upper respiratory infections but not at night?