Introducing myself and Skitz

Blastomy

New Member
Been stalking the forums for a while now, thought I should introduce myself and my female Veiled Skitz. . Not sure how old she is, We actually got her from PetSmart, Feb. 22nd 2011. She was looking all brown and cramped there and Me and the Misses had been talking about getting a Cham. for a couple months before that, seemed everything had fallen into place at that moment. And that's how Skitz came into our lives.

We've got her set up in a 18x18x36 screened encloser, a mistking basking and uvb. And while we are home we also let her free range, we've got a couple more umbrella plants, on a table with a pothos above that, with a fake vine running from the cage to the "tree's" and pothos, with another uvb bulb mounted above the pothos, since that's where she hangs out most and a misting head up there as well, all in front of the window.

I've been having a hard time even with plastic on the sides and back keeping the humidity up around 50% I'm in minnesota with forced air heating and it's not getting warmer, I do have the mister going off 8 times a day for a few min. as well as a humidier placed near her cage.

She's been eating like a pig from a cup and her poops look like they should, She's already shed twice now, she started her 2nd shed today.


Here are some pics of her enclosure.
https://picasaweb.google.com/greederjames/117_0328?authkey=Gv1sRgCN-Hu9Cn0ISzhQE#
 
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kinyonga

Chameleon Enthusiast
Welcome to the forum...and the world of chameleons!

Here's some information that you might find helpful....
Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption. Temperatures needed can vary with the species and age. For hatchling panthers I keep the temperature in the warmest area in the low 80's. For older panthers I keep it in the mid to high 80's for the most part.

Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.

Since many of the feeder insects have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects just before you feed them to the chameleon at most feedings with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it. (I use Rep-cal phosphorus-free calcium).

If you also dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it. (I use Rep-cal phos.-free calcium/D3).

Dusting twice a month as well with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while. (I use herptivite.)

Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.)

Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.

Once a female is sexually mature it can produce eggs without being mated so its important to provide an appropriate place in the cage for it to dig in to show you when it needs to lay eggs. An opaque container at least 12" deep x 12" x 8" filled with moistened washed playsand will do.

Here are some good sites for you to read...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200605020...Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200406080...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://raisingkittytheveiledchameleon.blogspot.com/
http://web.archive.org/web/200601140...ww.adcham.com/
If you can't access the sites above that have the word "archive" in you can do it through the WayBackMachine.
 

Ace

Avid Member
Welcome to the forums:)

well for her age i would guess close to 4-5 months range, meaningwhen you got her she was most likely around two months, but thats judging from the pics you have of her....

i also see you have the coil uvb bulb, is by chance the brand the new reptisun 5.0??? if it is then it might be ok, becasue people havent said any issues with it, but it could be that mostly everyone uses the LINEAR uvb tube bulbs that is known to be safe, the reason people stay away from coils is that it in the past it has known to harm the eyes of chameleons, and you would see your cham closing her eyes, but if that is not hte case, just keep an eye on things and make sure she isnt going down hill,

but i suggest to switch it to be safe, plus the linear tube ones prvode more chance of your vieled getting uvb even if she might not want to be under a basking lamp she will still be under the uvb lamp, she will not go under the uvb as often as the the lamp for heat.

she looks good from the pics and to also be prepared for the coming of her laying infertile eggs, ususally begin as early as 6 months ,but with proper care ,you can further the chance of her laying eggs so soon ,and even decrease the egg clutch size. so keep on researching and find about of egg laying bins for when the time comes

goodluck
 

Blastomy

New Member
I read here for a few weeks before we happen upon her, it is the 5.0 but he good one. Haven't yet seen her closing her eyes much except when the Mister catches her off guard lol. And then she runs like crazy for cover under the umbrella plant or out the door to the other vines up to the free range. Thanks for the guesstimate on her age. I've got a bin ready for when she starts looking gravid. We are trying to do everything right and continue to read up and research everyday. Now the misses wants a nosy b.
 

Ace

Avid Member
lol glad for teh good news and glad everythign seems good for you...who knows looks like the new coil one moght be okay afterall and people might uses...still change it every 6 months or so , so that way the output of uvb is not diminished,

and welcome to teh addiction:p , my next ones is a nosy be as well, i curently own only one ambilobe panther (avatar pic somewhat old)

happy cham keeping then:D
 
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