I'm afraid my baby is dying.

MollyT

New Member
The title says it all. He just hasn't been thriving since I got him a week ago Monday. Here is his info.

Your Chameleon - Male veiled, 4 weeks old, had a him a week this last Monday.
Handling - Very rarely, though occasionally he climbs on the cup when I'm feeding and I take him out on that bc it's more comfortable than holding a cup perfectly still in the middle of his cage. :eek:
Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? He is eating small crickets. I keep some in a cup at all times. If he doesn't eat by 1pm, I will put them in a smaller cup and hold them near him to entice him. This usually works.
Supplements - Exo Terra Calcium without d3 every day, ZooMed Calcium with d3 every 2 weeks(gave for first time Monday), Herptivite Multivitamin once every two weeks(haven't given yet, planning on giving Monday)
Watering - I mist by hand. I mist for a 3 mintes at a time, and mist as soon as the cage dries from previous misting. I use the Nursery purified water. I see him drink often, and I also use a Big Dripper that drips all day.
Fecal Description - Pretty normal from what I've seen on here. White urates, except today I noticed a yellowish thing coming out of his vent. I took some tweezers to see if it was solid or liquid, and it came off, was creamy in consistency, and after I removed it, it came right back within a few minutes. Not sure what that is.
History - I'm just really afraid I got him too young and he got too stressed from the drive home(45 minutes).

Cage Info:
Cage Type - Reptibreeze 16x16x20. Screen
Lighting - Basking light is a 40watt regular bulb in a dome, ubv is a reptisun 5.0 compact also in a dome. Lights on at 7am, off at 7pm
Temperature - I found out a few days ago that it was too high(upper 80's), so I lowered it, now it is around 84F at the basking and goes to about 72F at the bottom. I use a digital thermometer.
Humidity - Humidity stays around 70%. I maintain with misting and the dripper plus the plants. Plus, it's pretty humid where I live anyway, and that helps.
Plants - I have 2 small umbrella plants, that I cleaned and replanted in organic soil and covered with rocks(big ones)
Placement - In living room so I can keep an eye on him, but it's just me and my husband, and he's not in a high traffic area.
Location - Eastern Kentucky

He's just not eating. Doesn't seem to really care about it. Yesterday he seemed to be having trouble catching the crickets. It looked like his tongue just wasn't going out far enough. He even tried picking it up with his mouth but it didn't work. I have maimed them so all they can do is lay there and wiggle their body, just enough to entice him, and he still can't seem to get them. This started yesterday. Before that he was doing ok, just not eating more than a cricket or two a day. Today he has been VERY sleepy. Couldn't hardly keep him awake, and he had that yellow stuff coming out of his vent that I mentioned. The breeder said if he does I can either have my money back and the healthiest, fattest male in his next bunch, or get an unrelated pair when they are ready. I don't want any other cham though! I love this guy! I don't know what I'm doing wrong. I studied for months before getting him to keep from having to go through watching a sick animal wither away, and it looks like I'm going to have to go through it anyway. It is breaking my heart and I don't know what else to do. :(
 
You may not be doing anything wrong unless possibly the period of too-high temps started a cascade of trouble. Hard to say, as there is usually some percentage of hatchlings that just don't survive...either due to some sort of congenital problem or error during incubation. This very young age is when it can happen. All you can do is hope for now. If you do end up with another cham I'd get an older one that is known to be actively growing.
 
I agree your setup sounds nearly perfect, my first cham was around 5 weeks when I brought it home. Take him to a vet with a lot of experience with chams, the exam will be around $35. Should invest in a zoomed reptitemp 500r thermostat, just so your temps never get too high if the temp happens to rise all of a sudden. If you use fixtures with dimmers, you can tone the light down a bit so it doesnt click on and off all the time and drive it crazy. I usually turn my day bulb down a hair just so its not so blindingly bright. I figure if it hurts my eyes then it probably hurts theirs, just a thought, not 100% on it. If there are any decent reptile stores near you, and come across someone with a lot of experience with chams that works there, will be happy to take a look at him for you. They will also give him a quick look over to see any physical signs of other issues. Vet is the better place to go of course, but nothing wrong with a haphazard exam for free whenever you like. Are you gutloading your crickets?
 
Sorry to hear of this development. I don't see where you have done anything wrong. Chams are REALLY delicate at this young age. Most reputable breeders wont let a cham go until after 3 or 4 months of age for this very reason. Again, sorry that you're going through this and I'm hoping for the best.
 
I am afraid this is what happened, Carlton. I got his very last one, so obviously, he was the smallest and the least lively. The breeder said if it comes to me getting another one(if mine dies), then he will keep it a bit longer so it will have a better chance at surviving the trip home. The thing is, I've already become super attached to him and just love him so much. He is my first chameleon and I wanted to do right by him. :( Now I'm crying again. I hate this.
 
Oh...yes, I am gut loading. Guess I forgot to mention that. I have cricket food that I put in there. I also give them oranges, carrots, the occasional honeydew or kiwi, sometimes a strawberry or potato. I try to switch it up, but I always keep fruits and veggies in with them.
 
Supposably that issue was fixed, but I stick to the reptiglo 5.0 linear bulbs because I had it happen to my first cham.

There is definitely conflicting info on compact uvb's, Ive come to learn to not believe what commercial companies claim and go off of what people that have tested the products say.
 
DId you say a COMPACT UVB!?!?!?! Compact coils cause blindness and death with chameleons!!! If so take it out NOW!!!

http://www.chameleonsnorthwest.com/caresheet.htm

This isn't entirely true, this was a few isolated incidents if I remember correctly. I am so sorry to hear about your little guy:(:(

I'm stumped as to what the fluid he is excreting could be... Can you post some pictures of him and his booty and his set up as well. Maybe that will help us find a solution.

Trey
 
This isn't entirely true, this was a few isolated incidents if I remember correctly. I am so sorry to hear about your little guy:(:(


Hmm... The reptile store by me uses tubular bulbs and really has a thing against compacts. All the water dragon care sheets I read when I had one says to not use them either. Better to be safe than sorry I guess.
 
DId you say a COMPACT UVB!?!?!?! Compact coils cause blindness and death with chameleons!!! If so take it out NOW!!!

http://www.chameleonsnorthwest.com/caresheet.htm

I would recommend using this website as your definitive information repository on UV light as it relates to reptiles in captivity... http://www.uvguide.co.uk/uvinviv.htm

http://www.arcadia-reptile.com/lighting-guide/ also has a lot of great information.

I think that CFLs and some other bulbs caused blindness and such in the past because they were emitting UVC light but that issue was corrected a long time ago (supposedly).
 
Well, since I spent nearly my whole paycheck on him already on Monday, and have no money left, I guess I am going to pawn my laptop and whatever else I can find so I can get him the other kind of uvb bulb tomorrow. I don't know what else to do.
 
I would recommend using this website as your definitive information repository on UV light as it relates to reptiles in captivity... http://www.uvguide.co.uk/uvinviv.htm

http://www.arcadia-reptile.com/lighting-guide/ also has a lot of great information.

I think that CFLs and some other bulbs caused blindness and such in the past because they were emitting UVC light but that issue was corrected a long time ago (supposedly).

Yea, supposively the key word. I read a thread from someone that worked at one of the uvb manufacturers, not sure the company, used to work there mentioned uvc being emitted. He even said if they actually changed it was not something to be completely trusted.
 
Yea, supposively the key word. I read a thread from someone that worked at one of the uvb manufacturers, not sure the company, used to work there mentioned uvc being emitted. He even said if they actually changed it was not something to be completely trusted.

I use the Arcadia D3 (linear UVB) bulbs from lightyourreptiles.com and I LOVE them. I know there are a bunch of others who would recommend them too.

Sorry to hear about your cham Molly =(
 
I use the Arcadia D3 (linear UVB) bulbs from lightyourreptiles.com and I LOVE them. I know there are a bunch of others who would recommend them too.

Good show, Ive heard of those arcadia bulbs before and heard a lot of good about them. Thanks for refreshing my memory.
 
Molly, I think you were sold a baby that was just too young.

How small are the crickets you are feeding? You might want to try fruit flies and 1/3 grown crickets (or maybe pinheads) for a baby that young.

Some of the best keepers on this forum use the compact fluorescents now. When lights are the problem it typically presents as a squinting, eyes closed chameleon, not a chameleon going off food.

Try the smaller food, see if that doesn't help.
 
Yea, supposively the key word. I read a thread from someone that worked at one of the uvb manufacturers, not sure the company, used to work there mentioned uvc being emitted. He even said if they actually changed it was not something to be completely trusted.

many keepers on here use the compacts and very successfully. This subject has gone round and round on here and the compacts are safe. It is proven cause the chameleons are thriving. The issue you are talking about was quite a few years back. I personally use the tubes cause I like how they spread the lights out across the cage as opposed to the dome which is more concentrated. No offense, but I don't think you should make statements unless you are sure what you are talking about.
 
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