i need youre help please :(


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* Your Chameleon - A male valid chameleon (from Yemen).
* Handling - mostly everyday 3 days when im cleaning his cage .
* Feeding - house fly's , garden worms and some veges like lettuce , carrots , i consistently offer worms and house fly's everyday but he only eats like every 2-3 days , im keeping his bugs in a plastic see through Drum about 2500 ml with a cover. with lots of fresh veges and good ventilation but no dusting .
* Supplements - fibers and calcium ( a dietary supplement crackers )
* Watering - dripping system , some times i use an ice cube on top of his aquarium , every 2 days , and yes i do see him drink .

* Cage Type - 16 cube glass aquarium.
* Lighting - i use a brand called Reptiland , its a 50W black light , i usually keep it on most of the day and turn it of at night time .
* Temperature - i never measured the temperature , its usually hot in my area.
* Plants - im using a wide verity of branches and fake leaves .
* Placement - in my room next to an open window with a fresh ventilating system.
* Location - Saudi Arabia

my chameleon had a recent accident , as i see it he ended up with a broken arm and i think a broken pelvis . i dont know what to do cuz our local vet cannot help him .
i seek youre help and guide :( .
sorry to hear about his accident, but alot of your husbandry needs to be critiqued. no blacklight bulb needed. at night all lights go out. you need to get a thermometer of some sort. a good one too. temps are very important. for all you know you could be over heating your cham. use the search option and do all your research on temps and what not. idk why your using dietary crackers but those cant be good for your cham.
You are not supplementing your chameleon with calcium nor do you have a uvb light. Unless your cham is getting a decent amount of sun through the open window your chameleon may have developed MBD(metabolic bone disease) and this is perhaps why your chameleon broke his limb and pelvis, if it is indeed broke. Please post some pictures of your chameleon. Keeping him in a glass aquarium in your location of the world does not sound like a great habitat either. Not sure what 16 cube means?, but it sounds small.
Did you catch it from the wild?
How long have you had it? How old is it?
Can it walk okay?
Can you post a picture of its arm and one of the whole chameleon please?

Here's some information that might help with your husbandry.......
Exposure to proper UVB, appropriate temperatures, supplements, a supply of well-fed/gutloaded insects, water and an appropriate cage set-up are all important for the well-being of your chameleon.

Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption. (For veiled babies and females when not gravid...low to mid 80'sF...for adult males...mid to high 80'sF.)

Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.

Since many of the feeder insects have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects just before you feed them to the chameleon at most feedings with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it. (I use Rep-cal phosphorus-free calcium).

If you also dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it. (I use Rep-cal phos.-free calcium/D3).

Dusting twice a month as well with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while. (I use herptivite.)

Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.)

Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.

Here are some good sites for you to read...

Carol...black lights are usually UVB producers.
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A selection of pet stores in S.A that you might find helpful for insect and product supplies for your chameleon:



Mechli's, P O Box 40639, Riyadh, 11511, phone +966507490792, fax +96614622856, [email protected].

Jeddah, Jeddah
Bakri Cono, King Abdul Bin Aziz Road North, Ubhor,, Jeddah, Jeddah, 21312, phone 05-336-4631, fax 02-607-6081, [email protected].

exotic vets in S.A :




Tel: + 9662 6912896 Fax: + 9662 6914614
Web: http://www.saudivets.com/clinic01 home.htm

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