I NEED HELP MY CHAMELEON HAD SURGERY

Echo98

New Member
I first bought my chameleon from petco (i know now that was wrong) anywho, the day after i got him he had a prolapse, i took him to the vet, they said he was super tiny and that the surgery went well. but it is post op day 2 and he hasn’t eaten he’s had a little to drink but not much. i’m super worried. his heat is between 75-80, i use a fog machine a couple hours a day so his humidity is good, i don’t handle him except when he prolapsed and i had to give him a sugar bath. he only weighs 6 ounces so i’m really worried i want him to get bigger and healthier any suggestions? i’m new to this chameleon thing so any help would be greatly appreciated! i’m not sure what kind he is they didn’t tell me! thanks in advance!! also i feed him crickets and mealworms. he does have a water dripper and i spray his enclosure 2x a day.
 

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MissSkittles

Chameleon Enthusiast
Hi and welcome. From the information you’ve provided, all I can see is that you shouldn’t be using a fogger during the day or anytime the temperature isn’t below at least 68-70. I’d be more than happy to make sure you’ve got everything just right for your sweet little one, but will need much more info. If you’d like to answer the following questions (copy & paste) I’ll go thru all of your care and if needed, make suggestions as to any corrections that may need to be made. Pics of your enclosure, including lights, will be very helpful too.

Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:
  1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
  2. Photos can be very helpful.
 

Echo98

New Member
  • Your Chameleon - i’m not sure petco said it was to early to tell what sex he is.
  • Handling - i only handheld him once to give home a sugar bath when he had a prolapse and i couldn’t get him to the vet until the morning
  • Feeding - i feed him crickets (smalls) about 6 a day. i turn his light on at 9 am and off at 9pm i don’t have feeders? i place the crickets around him and he goes after them… do i need a feeder and where can i get it?
  • Supplements - the calcium powder i use is repti calcium i don’t have any vitamin products.. i’m probably doing this all wrong my poor baby.. i do dust the crickets in the powder before i feed him. he hasn’t been eating so i’ve been trying several times a day with no results. but he doesn’t get his stitches out until friday.
  • Watering - i spray his enclosure 5-10 minutes 3x a day and he has a little dripper but recently he hasn’t been drinking.
  • Fecal Description - i’ve only had him since tuesday but he did poop and pee once but then he had a prolapse. his pee was white (i think it was hard) and the poop was brown he was pooping for a while you could tell he was having trouble with it. i had fed him 6 crickets he ate them just fine. but after he prolapsed and had his surgery he hasn’t wanted anything im worried because he’s so small.
  • History - unfortunately i don’t know much, me and my girlfriend got him from petco with basically no information, and i’ve had him for about a week he was doing just fine until he prolapsed but he prolapsed the day after i got him. was it because of me maybe?? how do i prevent it if there’s a way?
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you
 

Echo98

New Member
Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - it is an all screen enclosure it is really big? probably 3 feet tall and about 1-1.5 wide he has sticks going up throughout the cage so he can get up and down. i bought a canopie so he lay down at the top of the cage if he would like also to help catch him he has fallen once and it scared me.
  • Lighting - i have a heating lamp and a uvb light . i keep the lights on from 9 am to 9pm it says it’s 60 W 120V
  • Temperature - between 75-80 is the normal temp overnight i don’t let it go below 70. i have a thermometer that measures heat and humidity
  • Humidity -it says it stays in the tropical so 60-70 percent i spray his enclosure 2x a day and there’s a fog machine.
  • Plants - most of them are artificial except for the sticks
  • Placement - it is by a window in a spare room so he can get sun the window faces where the sun rises, it isn’t by any vents, it is about only a foot off the ground, not even halfway to the ceiling
  • Location - we live in conway, arkansas.

Current Problem - he’s not eating or drinking

--------------

Please Note:
  1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
  2. Photos can be very helpful.
 

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Echo98

New Member
update!! he drank really good awhile ago! but he still hasn’t eaten): also he’s a piebald chameleon i just called to confirm it!
 

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Thatwizard420

Chameleon Enthusiast
i will do anything i have to do! what are some tips?
I am currently at work and Haven't been able to go trough your list.
Just based on your enclosure I can tell you got the Chameleon Kit.
I'm sure a seasoned member will chime in just a few mins and point you in the right dirction.
 

MissSkittles

Chameleon Enthusiast
As I tend to talk a lot, will break this up into at least 2 posts.
  • Your Chameleon - i’m not sure petco said it was to early to tell what sex he is. Untrue usually with veileds. Males will have a prominent nub (tarsal spur) at their back heels. Females lack this or have just a hint of one. Best I can tell from one of your pics, you have a baby that is approximately 2-3 months old. Btw, you have a veiled, or Yemen chameleon. Piebald refers to coloration.
  • Handling - i only handheld him once to give home a sugar bath when he had a prolapse and i couldn’t get him to the vet until the morning Very good. You’ll want to establish some trust, which takes time and patience. https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/building-trust-with-your-chameleon.2396/
  • Feeding - i feed him crickets (smalls) about 6 a day. Baby needs much more than that. Being so young, she should be getting around 15-20 feeders daily in the morning. Besides stress causing lack of appetite, if the feeder insects are too big, baby won’t be able to eat them. Feeders need to be smaller than the space between the eyes. You’ll also want to add more variety and then you’ll need to keep your buggies well fed and healthy so that they are more nutritious. Graphics below. i turn his light on at 9 am and off at 9pm i don’t have feeders? i place the crickets around him and he goes after them… do i need a feeder and where can i get it? There’s a few different types available. I like the shooting gallery. https://tkchameleons.com/products/shooting-gallery?variant=30018608595032 You’ll need to place the feeding station just below basking level and within view of basking spot.
  • Supplements - the calcium powder i use is repti calcium i don’t have any vitamin products.. i’m probably doing this all wrong my poor baby.. i do dust the crickets in the powder before i feed him. he hasn’t been eating so i’ve been trying several times a day with no results. but he doesn’t get his stitches out until friday. There’s as many ways to supplement as their are supplements. The basic regimen is a phosphorus free calcium without D3 lightly dusted at every feeding (except when another supplement is used). Calcium with D3 and a multivitamin each need to be given for one feeding every other week - alternating so they aren’t given the same week.
  • Watering - i spray his enclosure 5-10 minutes 3x a day and he has a little dripper but recently he hasn’t been drinking. Many chameleons are very secretive about drinking. You’ll want to go by the urate (white part of the poo) to determine hydration. White or with about 1/3 being yellow or a bit orange is fine.
  • Fecal Description - i’ve only had him since tuesday but he did poop and pee once but then he had a prolapse. his pee was white (i think it was hard) and the poop was brown he was pooping for a while you could tell he was having trouble with it. i had fed him 6 crickets he ate them just fine. but after he prolapsed and had his surgery he hasn’t wanted anything im worried because he’s so small. You’ll definitely want to have a fecal test for parasites. As your vet has already seen him, you should be able to just drop off a fresh poo for testing.
  • History - unfortunately i don’t know much, me and my girlfriend got him from petco with basically no information, and i’ve had him for about a week he was doing just fine until he prolapsed but he prolapsed the day after i got him. was it because of me maybe?? how do i prevent it if there’s a way? Honestly I have little idea why a prolapse would occur, especially in a baby. Do you know if it was an intestinal or hemipenal prolapse? It could be from a genetic predisposition, individual weakness or just the crappy care received at the pet store. Best way to prevent reoccurrence is to have proper husbandry, although if it’s a physical problem there’s no guarantee. Ask your vet why they believe it may have happened and how best to prevent recurrence.
    To be continued….
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MissSkittles

Chameleon Enthusiast
Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - it is an all screen enclosure it is really big? probably 3 feet tall and about 1-1.5 wide he has sticks going up throughout the cage so he can get up and down. i bought a canopie so he lay down at the top of the cage if he would like also to help catch him he has fallen once and it scared me. Looks like you bought the chameleon kit. Basically the only really useful items in it are the light, vine and supplements. For an adult, the minimum size enclosure needed is 2x2x4’, so in a few short months baby will be much bigger and needing much more space. You’ll want to fill your enclosure with lots of branches/vines to provide lots of little roads for baby to travel. Males especially like and use lots of space as they patrol their enclosures daily. Attaching a few pics of the enclosures I’ve set up to give you some ideas. (One with little scaffold support and one with dragon ledges) Hanging things can be a big challenge on screen. You can make little scaffolds, using the frame to carry any weight or invest in Dragon Ledges (which are awesome!) https://dragonstrand.com/dragon-ledges/
  • Lighting - i have a heating lamp and a uvb light . i keep the lights on from 9 am to 9pm it says it’s 60 W 120V The screw in uvb bulbs aren’t able to provide adequate uvb levels any farther away than 2-3”, and at that close there is a big risk for burns. The standard is a linear T5 with either a ReptiSun 5.0 or Arcadia 6% uvb bulb. Usually these need to be bought on line, although I believe PetSmart has started carrying Arcadia Pro T5s. Petco only sells T8 lights, and you don’t want those. Then with the T5, basking area should be about 8-9” below the lights for proper uvb levels. The dual dome is great for holding basking light and in the spot where the uvb was, you can add a plant light. Since babies love to act like crazy little monkey-lizards and climb upside down along their screen tops, you’ll need to elevate your lights off the screen by a few inches to prevent burns. I use wire baskets from the dollar store for this, or you can look up ReptiRiser on Etsy or come up with your own solution.
  • Temperature - between 75-80 is the normal temp overnight i don’t let it go below 70. i have a thermometer that measures heat and humidity For babies we want to keep basking temps around 78-80. For adult males, the basking temps should be around 82-85. At night a drop in temps is ideal and veileds can handle temps as low as the 50’s-60’s. You’ll only need a night heat source if your temp drops below around 55.
  • Humidity-it says it stays in the tropical so 60-70 percent i spray his enclosure 2x a day and there’s a fog machine. This is too humid. Ideal range during the day is between 30-50%. High humidity + heat = risk for respiratory infection. The enclosure should have time to dry out between misting. Never use a humidifier/fogger during the day.
    Now about your temp/humidity gauge… if it’s the one that came with the kit, it’s notoriously inaccurate. You’ll instead want to get digital thermometers/hygrometers with a wired probe end. Some use Govee https://www.amazon.com/Govee-Thermo...id=1651519661&sprefix=govee+th,aps,106&sr=8-4
    • Plants - most of them are artificial except for the sticks Veileds nibble their plants, so you need them all to be live, clean and safe. Attaching safe plant list. Pothos is a chameleon keepers staple. You’ll want to provide lots of shaded areas for your cham to hide in or take shade in. Gently wash the plant leaves with a gentle dish soap, rinse very very well and I suggest repotting in an organic soil. Many cover the soil with river rocks too big to be eaten. Having a tall center plant like a schefflera with vining plants around it is a nice and basic set up. You can turn empty plant pots upside down to elevate some plants if needed. To give your cham a little extra privacy, you can attach the fake plants to the outside of the enclosure.
    • Placement - it is by a window in a spare room so he can get sun the window faces where the sun rises, it isn’t by any vents, it is about only a foot off the ground, not even halfway to the ceiling You want to make sure that the sun coming thru the window isn’t going to overheat your cham. They enjoy having a view, so maybe move off to the side a bit. They also prefer height as it means safety. They feel safest when they are looking down at us and their world.
    • Location - we live in conway, arkansas.

  • Current Problem - he’s not eating or drinking

Additional stuff…. The little hammock isn’t good for chams. It can catch their little claws and damage them. The water bottle looking thing? I’d say remove it. If it’s the type used by rodents, chams won’t know how to use. Just mist the plants for at least 2 minutes, 2-3 times a day and your cham should have enough hydration. Best to keep the floor bare. If your cham accidentally eat a piece of moss or anything like that, it is an impaction risk. Also, the more stuff you have on the floor, the harder it is to keep clean and hygienic. There are planted soil substrates only in bioactive enclosures, which is a bit more advanced keeping. Let’s stick to the basics for now. The little bowls on the floor…not needed. In nature, chams don’t go down to the ground unless absolutely necessary (looking for mates, egg laying) as it’s not as safe as their trees.
Let me quickly go back to supplements. Usually the chameleon kit contains a ReptiCalcium without D3 and Reptivite with D3. Both of these are great and what I use. The calcium without D3 to be used at every feeding except once every other week. The ReptiVite with D3 is a combination multivitamin/D3 and is to be used that one feeding every other week. No other supplements needed with this regimen.
I think I’ve covered everything. Here’s some resources for learning. https://www.chameleonforums.com/care/ Do ask as many questions as you need. There’s a lot to learn and we all start at the beginning.




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Thatwizard420

Chameleon Enthusiast
Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - it is an all screen enclosure it is really big? probably 3 feet tall and about 1-1.5 wide he has sticks going up throughout the cage so he can get up and down. i bought a canopie so he lay down at the top of the cage if he would like also to help catch him he has fallen once and it scared me. Looks like you bought the chameleon kit. Basically the only really useful items in it are the light, vine and supplements. For an adult, the minimum size enclosure needed is 2x2x4’, so in a few short months baby will be much bigger and needing much more space. You’ll want to fill your enclosure with lots of branches/vines to provide lots of little roads for baby to travel. Males especially like and use lots of space as they patrol their enclosures daily. Attaching a few pics of the enclosures I’ve set up to give you some ideas. (One with little scaffold support and one with dragon ledges) Hanging things can be a big challenge on screen. You can make little scaffolds, using the frame to carry any weight or invest in Dragon Ledges (which are awesome!) https://dragonstrand.com/dragon-ledges/
  • Lighting - i have a heating lamp and a uvb light . i keep the lights on from 9 am to 9pm it says it’s 60 W 120V The screw in uvb bulbs aren’t able to provide adequate uvb levels any farther away than 2-3”, and at that close there is a big risk for burns. The standard is a linear T5 with either a ReptiSun 5.0 or Arcadia 6% uvb bulb. Usually these need to be bought on line, although I believe PetSmart has started carrying Arcadia Pro T5s. Petco only sells T8 lights, and you don’t want those. Then with the T5, basking area should be about 8-9” below the lights for proper uvb levels. The dual dome is great for holding basking light and in the spot where the uvb was, you can add a plant light. Since babies love to act like crazy little monkey-lizards and climb upside down along their screen tops, you’ll need to elevate your lights off the screen by a few inches to prevent burns. I use wire baskets from the dollar store for this, or you can look up ReptiRiser on Etsy or come up with your own solution.
  • Temperature - between 75-80 is the normal temp overnight i don’t let it go below 70. i have a thermometer that measures heat and humidity For babies we want to keep basking temps around 78-80. For adult males, the basking temps should be around 82-85. At night a drop in temps is ideal and veileds can handle temps as low as the 50’s-60’s. You’ll only need a night heat source if your temp drops below around 55.
  • Humidity-it says it stays in the tropical so 60-70 percent i spray his enclosure 2x a day and there’s a fog machine. This is too humid. Ideal range during the day is between 30-50%. High humidity + heat = risk for respiratory infection. The enclosure should have time to dry out between misting. Never use a humidifier/fogger during the day.
    Now about your temp/humidity gauge… if it’s the one that came with the kit, it’s notoriously inaccurate. You’ll instead want to get digital thermometers/hygrometers with a wired probe end. Some use Govee https://www.amazon.com/Govee-Thermometer-Hygrometer-Bluetooth-Temperature/dp/B07R586J37/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3QFOMITCBDM3V&keywords=govee+thermometer/hygrometer&qid=1651519661&sprefix=govee+th,aps,106&sr=8-4
    • Plants - most of them are artificial except for the sticks Veileds nibble their plants, so you need them all to be live, clean and safe. Attaching safe plant list. Pothos is a chameleon keepers staple. You’ll want to provide lots of shaded areas for your cham to hide in or take shade in. Gently wash the plant leaves with a gentle dish soap, rinse very very well and I suggest repotting in an organic soil. Many cover the soil with river rocks too big to be eaten. Having a tall center plant like a schefflera with vining plants around it is a nice and basic set up. You can turn empty plant pots upside down to elevate some plants if needed. To give your cham a little extra privacy, you can attach the fake plants to the outside of the enclosure.
    • Placement - it is by a window in a spare room so he can get sun the window faces where the sun rises, it isn’t by any vents, it is about only a foot off the ground, not even halfway to the ceiling You want to make sure that the sun coming thru the window isn’t going to overheat your cham. They enjoy having a view, so maybe move off to the side a bit. They also prefer height as it means safety. They feel safest when they are looking down at us and their world.
    • Location - we live in conway, arkansas.

  • Current Problem - he’s not eating or drinking

Additional stuff…. The little hammock isn’t good for chams. It can catch their little claws and damage them. The water bottle looking thing? I’d say remove it. If it’s the type used by rodents, chams won’t know how to use. Just mist the plants for at least 2 minutes, 2-3 times a day and your cham should have enough hydration. Best to keep the floor bare. If your cham accidentally eat a piece of moss or anything like that, it is an impaction risk. Also, the more stuff you have on the floor, the harder it is to keep clean and hygienic. There are planted soil substrates only in bioactive enclosures, which is a bit more advanced keeping. Let’s stick to the basics for now. The little bowls on the floor…not needed. In nature, chams don’t go down to the ground unless absolutely necessary (looking for mates, egg laying) as it’s not as safe as their trees.
Let me quickly go back to supplements. Usually the chameleon kit contains a ReptiCalcium without D3 and Reptivite with D3. Both of these are great and what I use. The calcium without D3 to be used at every feeding except once every other week. The ReptiVite with D3 is a combination multivitamin/D3 and is to be used that one feeding every other week. No other supplements needed with this regimen.
I think I’ve covered everything. Here’s some resources for learning. https://www.chameleonforums.com/care/ Do ask as many questions as you need. There’s a lot to learn and we all start at the beginning.




View attachment 323851View attachment 323853
View attachment 323854
Yeah, what she said ^
 

Echo98

New Member
Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - it is an all screen enclosure it is really big? probably 3 feet tall and about 1-1.5 wide he has sticks going up throughout the cage so he can get up and down. i bought a canopie so he lay down at the top of the cage if he would like also to help catch him he has fallen once and it scared me. Looks like you bought the chameleon kit. Basically the only really useful items in it are the light, vine and supplements. For an adult, the minimum size enclosure needed is 2x2x4’, so in a few short months baby will be much bigger and needing much more space. You’ll want to fill your enclosure with lots of branches/vines to provide lots of little roads for baby to travel. Males especially like and use lots of space as they patrol their enclosures daily. Attaching a few pics of the enclosures I’ve set up to give you some ideas. (One with little scaffold support and one with dragon ledges) Hanging things can be a big challenge on screen. You can make little scaffolds, using the frame to carry any weight or invest in Dragon Ledges (which are awesome!) https://dragonstrand.com/dragon-ledges/
  • Lighting - i have a heating lamp and a uvb light . i keep the lights on from 9 am to 9pm it says it’s 60 W 120V The screw in uvb bulbs aren’t able to provide adequate uvb levels any farther away than 2-3”, and at that close there is a big risk for burns. The standard is a linear T5 with either a ReptiSun 5.0 or Arcadia 6% uvb bulb. Usually these need to be bought on line, although I believe PetSmart has started carrying Arcadia Pro T5s. Petco only sells T8 lights, and you don’t want those. Then with the T5, basking area should be about 8-9” below the lights for proper uvb levels. The dual dome is great for holding basking light and in the spot where the uvb was, you can add a plant light. Since babies love to act like crazy little monkey-lizards and climb upside down along their screen tops, you’ll need to elevate your lights off the screen by a few inches to prevent burns. I use wire baskets from the dollar store for this, or you can look up ReptiRiser on Etsy or come up with your own solution.
  • Temperature - between 75-80 is the normal temp overnight i don’t let it go below 70. i have a thermometer that measures heat and humidity For babies we want to keep basking temps around 78-80. For adult males, the basking temps should be around 82-85. At night a drop in temps is ideal and veileds can handle temps as low as the 50’s-60’s. You’ll only need a night heat source if your temp drops below around 55.
  • Humidity-it says it stays in the tropical so 60-70 percent i spray his enclosure 2x a day and there’s a fog machine. This is too humid. Ideal range during the day is between 30-50%. High humidity + heat = risk for respiratory infection. The enclosure should have time to dry out between misting. Never use a humidifier/fogger during the day.
    Now about your temp/humidity gauge… if it’s the one that came with the kit, it’s notoriously inaccurate. You’ll instead want to get digital thermometers/hygrometers with a wired probe end. Some use Govee https://www.amazon.com/Govee-Thermometer-Hygrometer-Bluetooth-Temperature/dp/B07R586J37/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3QFOMITCBDM3V&keywords=govee+thermometer/hygrometer&qid=1651519661&sprefix=govee+th,aps,106&sr=8-4
    • Plants - most of them are artificial except for the sticks Veileds nibble their plants, so you need them all to be live, clean and safe. Attaching safe plant list. Pothos is a chameleon keepers staple. You’ll want to provide lots of shaded areas for your cham to hide in or take shade in. Gently wash the plant leaves with a gentle dish soap, rinse very very well and I suggest repotting in an organic soil. Many cover the soil with river rocks too big to be eaten. Having a tall center plant like a schefflera with vining plants around it is a nice and basic set up. You can turn empty plant pots upside down to elevate some plants if needed. To give your cham a little extra privacy, you can attach the fake plants to the outside of the enclosure.
    • Placement - it is by a window in a spare room so he can get sun the window faces where the sun rises, it isn’t by any vents, it is about only a foot off the ground, not even halfway to the ceiling You want to make sure that the sun coming thru the window isn’t going to overheat your cham. They enjoy having a view, so maybe move off to the side a bit. They also prefer height as it means safety. They feel safest when they are looking down at us and their world.
    • Location - we live in conway, arkansas.

  • Current Problem - he’s not eating or drinking

Additional stuff…. The little hammock isn’t good for chams. It can catch their little claws and damage them. The water bottle looking thing? I’d say remove it. If it’s the type used by rodents, chams won’t know how to use. Just mist the plants for at least 2 minutes, 2-3 times a day and your cham should have enough hydration. Best to keep the floor bare. If your cham accidentally eat a piece of moss or anything like that, it is an impaction risk. Also, the more stuff you have on the floor, the harder it is to keep clean and hygienic. There are planted soil substrates only in bioactive enclosures, which is a bit more advanced keeping. Let’s stick to the basics for now. The little bowls on the floor…not needed. In nature, chams don’t go down to the ground unless absolutely necessary (looking for mates, egg laying) as it’s not as safe as their trees.
Let me quickly go back to supplements. Usually the chameleon kit contains a ReptiCalcium without D3 and Reptivite with D3. Both of these are great and what I use. The calcium without D3 to be used at every feeding except once every other week. The ReptiVite with D3 is a combination multivitamin/D3 and is to be used that one feeding every other week. No other supplements needed with this regimen.
I think I’ve covered everything. Here’s some resources for learning. https://www.chameleonforums.com/care/ Do ask as many questions as you need. There’s a lot to learn and we all start at the beginning.




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thank you so so much for your help!! i’m so new at this i feel like i’m doing terrible but i will fix all these problems and post an update!
 

MissSkittles

Chameleon Enthusiast
As I said, we all start at the beginning. Then as we keep learning, we keep improving. :) Keeping chameleons is a challenge and it’s made very difficult from all of the incorrect or outdated care info out there. Sadly, the majority of chain pet stores aren’t able to provide decent info and don’t even carry much of the stuff that is really needed. Sites like Josh’s Frogs have a great assortment of supplies and feeders. Check the forum sponsors for other sites. I’m very glad that you found your way here and it’s been my pleasure to help in any way I can.
 
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