Hornworm Breeding

camimom

New Member
So I had a request to see my hornworm set up.
Scalestailsandclaws... here ya go!

This is the cage. This is what I do, if you do it different or dont agree, please feel free to add.
Its a baby cham cage that I no longer needed.

Inside is a small scheffelara plant. This is for the hornworm moths to land on and lay eggs on later. I will be adding 2 or 3 more this week.

To feed the moths, you need to get a hummingbird feeder with the premixed sugar water in it. (dont mix it yourself, as someone else did, got the mixture wrong, and they died)
To get them to breed, you must get a tomato plant, and place it near the cage, NOT in, because they can eat it, and it is toxic, thus making the worm/moth toxic to your chams. (and yes, the moths can be fed to your cham too, but I plan to wait until i have a bunch of eggs laid)
I dont have one yet, but I am getting one this week.

It takes several weeks for the moths to emerge.


Now, the bin inside the cage, is a small plastic bin filled with ecoearth (you can use regular topsoil if you want, I just didnt have any)

When you have hornworms, they must have 24 hour access to food, they eat silkworm chow. Once the worm has reached a length of roughly 3-4 inches (which may only take less than 2 weeks) OR the worm is beginning to loook a bit dirty and raggedy looking, or the feet have begun to disappear within the fat rolls (HAHA) take that worm and place it in a tub of dirt, that is just slightly damp.
To see a size reference, go here. https://www.chameleonforums.com/holy-hornworms-76403/ (also some great info in there)

Do not give the worm in the dirt anymore food. Eventually, the worm should bury itself in the dirt. I had some who did it almost immediately, and some who it took over 3 weeks to pupate, even after they had buried themselves.

Once the worm is pupated (turned into a brown cocoon, as can be seen here in my first pic of this thread, https://www.chameleonforums.com/madness-oober-pic-heavy-77891/)
Leave it alone. I only dug mine up because I was transfering them to a smaller bin.

Then place the dirt and pupae in the cage, place the tomato plant(s) next to the cage.. and wait. once emerged, the moths will drink suger water, mate, lay eggs, and then you can either collect the eggs and place them in another tub, or just leave them and wait for them to hatch. Up to you.

And then the cycle begins again.

Before I add the pic, One more thing.

When you order hornworms, they arrive in a cup that yo uhave to turn upside down so the poop will fall on the lid and so they can eat.
I leave them in there until it gets too crowded or they run out of the food.

THen i remove them, and place them in a tub, with dirt on one half of the tub, and the other side bare, so when they feel the need to dig, they can.

Once in this tub, i just place slices of the silkworm chow in the bare side, and let them do their thing.

So, heres my pic. I hope this was informative. and I hope it pays off, cuz I am tired of spending so much money on these worms when i have 4-6 chams to feed!

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Awesome!! Now I know what to do with those huge ones i had left over from a previous cup! Ive already got an extra small cage:) thanks for the info!!
 
The moths do not eat the tomato plant. For my setup I put the tomato plant inside the cage and it gets covered in eggs. Its easier to take the small tomato plant out every morning and rub the eggs off of the leaves into a cup. Everywhere else that they lay is a pain to get to the eggs. The only time you cant use the worms is after they hatch and eat the tomato plant. It pays to be thorough when pulling the eggs off of the tomato plant each day since a couple of baby worms can take out a leaf in a matter of hours. I just take live worms off of the tomato as i find them. I got a much higher yeild when i had a fresh tomato plant inside the cage on this second round.
 
The moths do not eat the tomato plant. For my setup I put the tomato plant inside the cage and it gets covered in eggs. Its easier to take the small tomato plant out every morning and rub the eggs off of the leaves into a cup. Everywhere else that they lay is a pain to get to the eggs. The only time you cant use the worms is after they hatch and eat the tomato plant. It pays to be thorough when pulling the eggs off of the tomato plant each day since a couple of baby worms can take out a leaf in a matter of hours. I just take live worms off of the tomato as i find them.

Heh oops, lol. see corrections!

Why not just leave the scheffelara in though, so that when eggs are laid, and if i miss some and they hatch, they dont eat the tomato plant?
 
And all you used were some larger worms to get it started? You make it sound too easy!!! LOL

Yup, I bought 2 cups of worms.
SOme i fed off. some i kept. I let them get big and fat, then just placed them in dirt, they buried themselves, pupated, then i took my old baby cage, put teh bin of pupae and dirt in it. and stuck a plant in.

tada....

the hardest part is mkaing the silkworm chow cuz it smells so bad, and then having to touch it and cut it up to feed the worms.

every couple days i might pull the worms out of a bin and dump the poop, but thats it..

really not alot of work.
the most work will come when i have to hunt down the eggs.
 
The eggs are not as hard to find as I thought when i started my breeding project. They will lay all over the schefflera too but the tomato plant should be covered every morning for at least a week. The eggs roll right off of the leaves and bounce like a super ball if they hit the floor. Right now I have more hornworms than I can feed so I have to order more chow tonight to get around 40 to pupating size. The other 200 or so I have will have to be fed off or given away.
 
The eggs are not as hard to find as I thought when i started my breeding project. They will lay all over the schefflera too but the tomato plant should be covered every morning for at least a week. The eggs roll right off of the leaves and bounce like a super ball if they hit the floor. Right now I have more hornworms than I can feed so I have to order more chow tonight to get around 40 to pupating size. The other 200 or so I have will have to be fed off or given away.

i will be more than happy to take them off your hands. so im just going to leave the tomato plant outside the cage
 
i have had my first chameleon for almost a year now and i just recently got another one, an adult veiled, he is absolutely stunning and gets me PUMPED UP haha, but the previous owner had him on a schedule of eating dubia horn worms and crickets in rotation every other day. my little jackson girl doesn't really eat that stuff because she isn't that big so i never bothered but i feel the need to start getting these bugs! this post just saved me sooo much time digging up info! i hope its as easy as it sounds. my only question is that say i buy a cup of the worms from great lake horn worms. would there be a mix of gender in there for them to breed? its getting to be spring here so i want to start getting something going for my big fella! haha
 
i have had my first chameleon for almost a year now and i just recently got another one, an adult veiled, he is absolutely stunning and gets me PUMPED UP haha, but the previous owner had him on a schedule of eating dubia horn worms and crickets in rotation every other day. my little jackson girl doesn't really eat that stuff because she isn't that big so i never bothered but i feel the need to start getting these bugs! this post just saved me sooo much time digging up info! i hope its as easy as it sounds. my only question is that say i buy a cup of the worms from great lake horn worms. would there be a mix of gender in there for them to breed? its getting to be spring here so i want to start getting something going for my big fella! haha

I dont know how to tell gender. But i would assume if you get 30 someodd worms, that at least 2 are opposit genders.

And the more worms you get to turn into moths, the higher chance you have of making more worms.

ANd it really was as easy as it sounds. I feel the hardest part will be getting the eggs off the leaves to get them hatching in the worm bin, not in the moth cage.

ANd i think it is totally worth it to do this, if you like to feed hornworms, but they are so darn expensive to buy.. just make them yourself!

:)
 
Great write up! Someone sticky this it's worthy ;)

That was by far, the best comment I have ever gotten. you have totally just earned some rep points,
I couldnt have done it without you and reptoman....... you two totally helped me with this and deserve some of the credit!


 
Awesome I'm going to do it, the super funny thing about this is that in the summer when my dad has his garden these suckers are everywhere ha ha, I use to catch them as a kid because they looked cool!
 
Awesome I'm going to do it, the super funny thing about this is that in the summer when my dad has his garden these suckers are everywhere ha ha, I use to catch them as a kid because they looked cool!

You can use those worms to make moths, and then harvest the eggs..
but DONT feed them off.

If they have eaten tomato plants, which they primarily do, they are now toxic and could harm or even kill your chammie baby.

So, when you begin to breed, you still need a tomato plant to induce mating and laying, but you keep the plant outside the cage, so they can smell it, but not eat it.
 
So is there an alternative to the tomatoe plant because we don't have any here yet. Can I just use tamatoes lol? Or is it the actual plant
 
So is there an alternative to the tomatoe plant because we don't have any here yet. Can I just use tamatoes lol? Or is it the actual plant

I think you need the plant.
But you can buy seeds and grow one. it doesn thave to be huge.
Thats what im doing, you can get seeds off amazon.com (no joke) lol
 
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