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i just joined this web site, i own a Female Veiled Chameleon that is about 7" nose to tail. i have no clue her age, and am hear to learn more about the species.
well you came to the right place. age would be alot easier to tell with a pic sounds like maybe 3-4 months. have you done any reseasrch for your cham? youll need three different supplements...rep cal without d3 5-6 times a week
rep cal with d3 twice a month and herptivite twice a month
youll need a 5.0 reptisun linear tube light and fixture this is to provide the necessary d3 they need without it shell get mbd or metabolic bone desease
shell also need a basking light a regular house bulb of somewhere betwen 40-60 watts should get you at a proper basking temp which i think for young veilds is low 80s youll need a thermometr with a probe to acurately measure the temps youll also need to measure the humidity which should be between 50 -65% achieve this with misting often
also need to gutload your feeders theres great gutloading recipes on this site
should include a wet and dry gutload what type of enclosure does she have?
Welcome to the forums. Do you have a laying box for her? Females lay eggs and need a place to dig and lay them.
Welcome to the world of chameleons!

Here's some information you might find helpful......
Exposure to proper UVB, appropriate temperatures, supplements, a supply of well-fed/gutloaded insects, water and an appropriate cage set-up are all important for the well-being of your chameleon.

Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption.

Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.

Since many of the feeder insects have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects before you feed them to the chameleon with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it. (I use Rep-cal phosphorus-free calcium).

If you dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it. (I use Rep-cal phos.-free calcium/D3).

Dusting twice a month with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while. (I use herptivite.)

Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.)

Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.

Here are some good sites for you to read...
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