DIY *LED Fixture* - ALL info regarding UV/reptiles, SOLARMETER owners,all experiences

E

EvilLost

New Member
Hey all,

In nearing the end of my large free-range build I ended up buying LED lighting (which so far I love, but damn its expensive up front)...

I got 30x CREE LEDs (26 for daytime, 4 for "moonlight" on ultra low power) drivers etc (and the dimming controller...which i'm very unhappy with at the price point [its not programmable and it needs a separate power cycle timer to operate AND you have to buy an additional power supply for it as well!)


anyway long story short, i figured....why not add UV leds and ditch the separate bulbs? Needless to say, the fixtures don't exist....


....but the LEDs do....


I've done some very preliminary number crunching and if ordering from the (only) supplier that I have found in small numbers.... a single 290nm UV LED outputting 1.2mW @ 30mA costs ~$275.


I was curious if anyone has seen any or knows of any other UV fixtures FOR REPTILES (not grow lights etc) *or* LEDs / SUPPLIERS? Any experience would be awesome!


Also, does anyone know where I can get the SPECTRAL GRAPHS and SPECIFICATIONS for the various bulbs (Reptisun, Reptiglo, etc 5.0 and 10.0)?? I have contacted Zoomed and am waiting a response. In the meanwhile I have been basing my calculations off the data presented here:

http://www.uvguide.co.uk/phototherapyphosphor-tests.htm

I realize that was written 2009 and I have no way of validating the data, so any confirmations / etc would be appreciated.


Also, anyone with a SOLARMETER if you could *PLEASE* give me some measurements I would be highly appreciative!!

MODEL of Solarmeter:
IF SOLARMETER 6..UVI of your bulbs too plz
Type of bulb:
AGE of bulb (approx # of days bulb has been on):
Reading at 6":
Reading at 12":
Reading at 18":

This would be SO IMMENSELY HELPFUL!!! The more data on this the better!



Although cost is still an issue, the LEDs I have found output ~10-15nm spectrum and I can order it in any wavelength range I want. Based on the above-linked data, I am aiming for a final light range of 285-315nm.

Issue #1: What ratios of the relative wavelengths are best? I believe that this will vary to some extent among species and whatnot...I am still debating if I should aim specifically for panthers or reptiles in general, but I completely lack any scientific data on the matter anyway.

Alternatively, if anyone can direct me to some data on reptile/chameleon reactions to various UV index or ratios of UVA/UVB light I can work off that data as well

Issue #2: CAN a chameleon detect UVB light? Does anyone have personal or scientific information on this? I am crunching numbers on various different light spreads. The tighter the light beam, the less LEDs we can use to generate sufficient UVB and UVA (this is VERY crudely summed as there are many complications)...but in general a tighter beam will result in a lower cost.
---so can I "spotlight" UVB onto a certain spot while evenly lighting the rest of the tank?
-------I realize that I can "trick" the chameleon by making sure the UV spotlight coincides with the basking spot, but I am curious if they are not aligned if the chameleon will understand to "stay here" to get UVB?

Issue #3: Cost.
Hopefully I can find cheaper sources, but very roughly speaking the best I have found is on the orders of $275 for orders of 1-25......$200 for orders of 100ish......$80 for orders of 5,000ish....


The cost is currently making me think otherwise about this project and I am installing some CFL's for the time being...but I'm not entirely giving up on this idea...
 
See if I can help you out here. Sounds like you're thinking way too much on this.

First of all I'm pretty sure no one uses LEDs for UV lighting. The standard here is the reptisun 5.0 linear tube (~$20 for 36"). Another brand which is emerging is arcadia. Same thing though a linear tube style bulb.

As for which wavelengths to use: You should replicate the spectra graph of the sun as close as possible. Most of us a UV tube, and a standard or 6500k tube to do this.

Yes chameleons sense when they need more UV.

I hope you didnt go to nuts on the cost. lightyourreptiles.com has some really nice LEDs. I believe its $34 of a screw in 13w LED bank, that equates to a 100w incandescent, or 26w CFL. That also have "grow" LEDs, same price and output I believe.

That should help a little. I'm sure a lot of other people will chime in.
 
EvilLost said:
Hey all,

In nearing the end of my large free-range build I ended up buying LED lighting (which so far I love, but damn its expensive up front)...

I got 30x CREE LEDs (26 for daytime, 4 for "moonlight" on ultra low power) drivers etc (and the dimming controller...which i'm very unhappy with at the price point [its not programmable and it needs a separate power cycle timer to operate AND you have to buy an additional power supply for it as well!)


anyway long story short, i figured....why not add UV leds and ditch the separate bulbs? Needless to say, the fixtures don't exist....


....but the LEDs do....


I've done some very preliminary number crunching and if ordering from the (only) supplier that I have found in small numbers.... a single 290nm UV LED outputting 1.2mW @ 30mA costs ~$275.


I was curious if anyone has seen any or knows of any other UV fixtures FOR REPTILES (not grow lights etc) *or* LEDs / SUPPLIERS? Any experience would be awesome!


Also, does anyone know where I can get the SPECTRAL GRAPHS and SPECIFICATIONS for the various bulbs (Reptisun, Reptiglo, etc 5.0 and 10.0)?? I have contacted Zoomed and am waiting a response. In the meanwhile I have been basing my calculations off the data presented here:

http://www.uvguide.co.uk/phototherapyphosphor-tests.htm

I realize that was written 2009 and I have no way of validating the data, so any confirmations / etc would be appreciated.


Also, anyone with a SOLARMETER if you could *PLEASE* give me some measurements I would be highly appreciative!!

MODEL of Solarmeter:
IF SOLARMETER 6..UVI of your bulbs too plz
Type of bulb:
AGE of bulb (approx # of days bulb has been on):
Reading at 6":
Reading at 12":
Reading at 18":

This would be SO IMMENSELY HELPFUL!!! The more data on this the better!



Although cost is still an issue, the LEDs I have found output ~10-15nm spectrum and I can order it in any wavelength range I want. Based on the above-linked data, I am aiming for a final light range of 285-315nm.

Issue #1: What ratios of the relative wavelengths are best? I believe that this will vary to some extent among species and whatnot...I am still debating if I should aim specifically for panthers or reptiles in general, but I completely lack any scientific data on the matter anyway.

Alternatively, if anyone can direct me to some data on reptile/chameleon reactions to various UV index or ratios of UVA/UVB light I can work off that data as well

Issue #2: CAN a chameleon detect UVB light? Does anyone have personal or scientific information on this? I am crunching numbers on various different light spreads. The tighter the light beam, the less LEDs we can use to generate sufficient UVB and UVA (this is VERY crudely summed as there are many complications)...but in general a tighter beam will result in a lower cost.
---so can I "spotlight" UVB onto a certain spot while evenly lighting the rest of the tank?
-------I realize that I can "trick" the chameleon by making sure the UV spotlight coincides with the basking spot, but I am curious if they are not aligned if the chameleon will understand to "stay here" to get UVB?

Issue #3: Cost.
Hopefully I can find cheaper sources, but very roughly speaking the best I have found is on the orders of $275 for orders of 1-25......$200 for orders of 100ish......$80 for orders of 5,000ish....


The cost is currently making me think otherwise about this project and I am installing some CFL's for the time being...but I'm not entirely giving up on this idea...
Click to expand...

I am unaware of any uv led's out there so your post is news to me. I am reading all of this and asking myself one simple question.

Why the hassle? If it's not broke, don't fix it right? When you toy around with uv light for a reptile, especially a chameleon, you're toying with its life and well being. Mbd is reverse-less and not something to play around with. It's a very sad condition to see. Not trying to lecture you but If you want to light the cage with Led I would say go ahead, but for uvb for a chameleon I would stick with 5% repti-glo or equivalent and change them every six months.

You can go to
http://www.exo-terra.com/en/products/linear_fluorescent_bulbs.php
and view the wavelength graphs they have posted there. You will want to look at the 5.0 linear tubes as that is the correct amount of uvb ratio for chameleons.

Also, what kind of loss do the led's have distance wise? leds are very tiny compared to large linear tubes that we have been using for years. I would imagine the fall off and effectiveness is pretty significant. When I use my grow lights in my green house I have to have the led within 6 inches from the tomato plants for them to get the benefits.

UV leds probably aren't widely available yet because they are too new and/or not effective enough.

All in all, I think it would be a great and very innovative way to light your setup, however, I just don't see it being practical. Balance practicality with innovation.
 
ktravelet said:
See if I can help you out here. Sounds like you're thinking way too much on this.

First of all I'm pretty sure no one uses LEDs for UV lighting. The standard here is the reptisun 5.0 linear tube (~$20 for 36"). Another brand which is emerging is arcadia. Same thing though a linear tube style bulb.

As for which wavelengths to use: You should replicate the spectra graph of the sun as close as possible. Most of us a UV tube, and a standard or 6500k tube to do this.

Yes chameleons sense when they need more UV.

I hope you didnt go to nuts on the cost. lightyourreptiles.com has some really nice LEDs. I believe its $34 of a screw in 13w LED bank, that equates to a 100w incandescent, or 26w CFL. That also have "grow" LEDs, same price and output I believe.

That should help a little. I'm sure a lot of other people will chime in.
Click to expand...



Perhaps I wasn't clear enough, but I'm looking for actual, scientific data (science journals, published results, that kind of thing).



In regards to your point about replicating the sun as close to possible, I actually disagree. Our animals are in focused enclosures, not in the open...it is far more important to measure and analyze the results of various UV spectra so that the optimal spectral distribution can be found. Replicating the sun is a good "starting point" but is not the "optimal point".

Also, different animals may benefit differently from UV and furthermore as a result their setups and the distance from the light source may vary as well. For example, chameleons can easily be located within 6-12" of their light source...whereas terrestrial PDFs are going to be much further, especially in taller setups (which is why the different needs of the animals is one of the data I'm looking to find...I've found great scientific data on dendroboards but that is limited to frogs/amphibians).


And no, noone uses LED for lighting because there are NO LED fixtures on the market. I'm doing a major DIY project / learning experiment.


What are you basing your response of "Yes chameleons sense when they need UV" on? personal experience only or do you have a reference?


Lightyourreptiles only has screw-in, premade LEDs. They are fantastic, but I have no interest in those as I am building my own LED fixtures nor are their specs sufficient anyway :)
 
@moviemanmania: thanks for that link it was the one i was looking for but somehow had missed. I *ABSOLUTELY* agree with you that people should not try to do this and that this is NOT a topic for a DIY-project due to the complexities involved. I have a solid understanding of physics, really enjoy designing things, and have been bored to death intellectually of law school... so this project has many draws for me personally. Plus, maybe it will lead to something worthwhile; who knows?



there are no LED units on the market. I am talking about LITERALLY building an LED unit from scratch. I have indeed found a source for UV LEDs with a controlled 10-15nm spread on each LED.

The question is combining them correctly and calculating the correct optics/focus for them to be effective at certain distances.


Let me clarify, the UV LEDs I've found are BARE LEDs they are not "LED Lights" etc...I am doing the calculations and design required to find the effectiveness, distance, number of LEDs required etc etc...

that is why I am seeking research on Chameleons absorption of UV spectra or checking out the spread of the current bulbs to see how they are using successfully, etc.
 
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There are a couple of articles on lighting for chameleons on Chameleon News, especially the more recent one may interest you: http://www.chameleonnews.com/10JulWeldon.html

Alzo, you can find several research papers on the topic simply by searching "chameleon" and "light" in Google Scholar. Not sure you will find a lot on different species, but there definitely are papers on F. pardalis.
 
EvilLost said:
Alternatively, if anyone can direct me to some data on reptile/chameleon reactions to various UV index or ratios of UVA/UVB light I can work off that data as well

Issue #2: CAN a chameleon detect UVB light? Does anyone have personal or scientific information on this?
---so can I "spotlight" UVB onto a certain spot while evenly lighting the rest of the tank?
-------I realize that I can "trick" the chameleon by making sure the UV spotlight coincides with the basking spot, but I am curious if they are not aligned if the chameleon will understand to "stay here" to get UVB?
Click to expand...

I think anyone that has observed their chameleons for even a little bit of time can confirm yes they detect UVB light. I don't have scientific data or need to believe that. I also have a WC carpet chameleon who HATEs artificial UVB light from my observation and will not be content till I switch off the Repti Glo 5.0 Linear tube. I can't prove its the UVB but its definitely the issue. Don't know why but he does better without it. Also he basks under a normal CFL 26 watt that he seems to prefer. I may try putting repti glo CFL 5.0 to see if he does better that with the linear. If not I will wait till spring to get him in the sun and in the meantime more frequently give D3 not much but yes more than the AVG indoor chameleon.
 
After reading this I think you are straight out crazy for doing this, no offense. Any sane person would have just bought some par30 or 38 light bulbs seeing as they will still produce enough light for plants and keep your energy bill low. I really shouldn't talk since I built a 37 LED fixture for a 29 gallon salt water tank that has cost me $500+.

I really think you are best skipping the UV LED's and just go with a UVB bulb that you know will work.

If you do go LED just buy a UVB tester and check the LED's vs a UVB bulb. Basically you have 2 4'x2'x2' cages, 1 lit with UVB 5.0 bulb and the other with LED's. Basically all it is is testing since there is no data on led's used for UVB. Also the skimpy 1w UV LED's probably wont do anything unless the chameleon is inches away. You will most likely need 3w+ with optics, most likely 60 degree or smaller depending in the size of your enclosure. You are going to end up spending $$$ on LED UVB. IDK where you found a 290nm diode, but everything I have ever found in the UV range is around 400nm. From what I can see the 5.0 UVB bulbs peak at 350nm and 410nm in the UV range. Good luck with everything
 
racerfreak said:
After reading this I think you are straight out crazy for doing this, no offense. Any sane person would have just bought some par30 or 38 light bulbs seeing as they will still produce enough light for plants and keep your energy bill low. I really shouldn't talk since I built a 37 LED fixture for a 29 gallon salt water tank that has cost me $500+.

I really think you are best skipping the UV LED's and just go with a UVB bulb that you know will work.

If you do go LED just buy a UVB tester and check the LED's vs a UVB bulb. Basically you have 2 4'x2'x2' cages, 1 lit with UVB 5.0 bulb and the other with LED's. Basically all it is is testing since there is no data on led's used for UVB. Also the skimpy 1w UV LED's probably wont do anything unless the chameleon is inches away. You will most likely need 3w+ with optics, most likely 60 degree or smaller depending in the size of your enclosure. You are going to end up spending $$$ on LED UVB. IDK where you found a 290nm diode, but everything I have ever found in the UV range is around 400nm. From what I can see the 5.0 UVB bulbs peak at 350nm and 410nm in the UV range. (see below) Good luck with everything
Click to expand...

haha I don't think you understand my interest. I have the knowledge and ability to design such a light...would it be a weird idea if I were working for someone in a commercial capacity? I'm merely undertaking it as a personal challenge/interest.


I have only done some rough calculations so far, but to some extent, yes you are right. ONE 285nm LED that I have found would put out a roughly equivalent "amount" of UV light as a reptisun would at 6"....but the LED is only effective at 3cm (~1.2inches). Furthermore is the issue that 285-300nm is not the only wavelength we need, so we'd need multiple other LEDs to fill in the remaining positions. ....Then, we would need to VARY each individual LEDs power so that their relative strengths were in proper order. We would also need to balance the strenghts of these with the relative strengths of the visible light we are outputting (which realize will be on many orders stronger...).....(and so on)

In regards to "testing" it your way...that simply won't work. I'm not too familiar with UV meters, but the only one I know of is the solarmeter which can not give you individual WAVELENGTH readings. The new Solarmeter can at least give you a UVB reading which is an improvement, but still nowhere near the accuracy of data I need for my purposes. Also, I don't (necessarily) want to recreate the current light fixtures. They LIKELY are very well and it would be easiest to simply copy their spectrum, but I'm not looking for easy; I'm looking for EXACT (or as close as I can get it!) I intend to use those bulbs data as reference, but since I have such strong control over my spectra I can see if different spectral outputs may be beneficial to different species/etc to better benefit specifics rather than a generic fits all bulb.


In case you think all UV is just "UV" that is not at all correct. The relative amplitudes of the various wavelengths are VERY important....UVB, for example, is simply the name given to the spread of UV from ~280nm-315nm. So if my solarmeter is giving me ONE UVB value I have no way of knowing the relative powers of the different wavelengths within this band, i just know the sum of the band. EDIT: I haven't looked indepth enough at the solar index calculations, but I'm fairly confident that information is lost in that transformation so it will be difficult to calculate backwards, at least not with high accuracy....but perhaps I will do some more reading on this later.

In regards to the 5.0 spectra you mentioned, yes you are right they PEAK there. But PEAKING is not sufficient. I need to have the same curve....that is a WHOLE other ballgame, which as described above requires multiple LEDs running at variable powers in relation to eachother. Furthermore, since each LED has a 15nm spread, we can only have "set" values every 15nm which means we can make a step-curve but not parabolic....I figure to avoid this problem I have to consider using LEDs that are smaller gaps apart (maybe 5nm gaps) and overlap their spectra at various powers to create the curve...

Even if we got all that, ti would be a UV LED that costs ~$1000 and is only effective 3cm from the light source. I've been brainstorming various ways to amplify or better control the light....

As you can see, I have thought about it a bit. I don't follow your reference to PAR37 bulbs....how does that help?

EDIT2: Thanks for that lighting link, I'm going to bug Dave about this... :D
 
Last edited:
bump....I have spoken to a few electrical engineer friends of mine and there seems to be some general interest to give this a shot, so it looks like this just became a multiperson project ^^


I have also hit jackpot on the design side, but I am still searching for more data on spectral benefits of different reptiles, but my initial focus is chameleons. If we can establish a working design, changing the spectral output will be relatively easy to adjust for other animals or uses.



Is there no overall interest in this ? Or is everyone just running to invent it first for themselves ? lol
 
I would talk to the people at ReptileUV. When I was on a free range forum they used to attend the chats and help answer our lighting questions. I think they were even looking into making LED UV lights, if they don't already have them in manufacturing. They are really friendly people, they would be more than happy to answer your questions. I know they have all sorts of good graphs and things to show too, or at least they did.

They were iguana keepers, but they had info for us chameleon keepers which was helpful. I'm pretty sure they'll let you know what spectrum of light they would do best with. At the very least it gives you more data to formulate your own theory on.
 
Todnedo said:
Here's a link for you http://www.thorlabs.com/newgrouppage9.cfm?objectgroup_id=2814
This is a great idea, I have wanted to do this for years but the UV LED's are cost prohibited right now. But they last for 5+ years without spectral shift or drop in intensity.
Here is a good start to a full spectrum Led fixture
http://www.advancedledlights.com/pr...r-LED-%2d-3w-USA-LEDs-%2d-11-Wavelengths.html
Click to expand...

The Thor Labs LEDs are similar to the ones I've found, a little weaker and just barely cheaper in small quantities...good source :)


Not sure what you are referring to with the second link though? Its just a basic "full spectrum" grow light; creating that is really easy (I hate that term, because its really only "full visible spectrum"...but I digress...)

From the spec sheet on the LEDs I found their lifespan is supposedly over 7 years with 90%+ power still; but yes the cost of a unit will be $1,000+ which is simply far too high....but theoretically if the initial run was large enough, the cost could be dropped substantially...

As an absurd example....1 UV LED is ~$250 but (at least from my other source) if we are to order on the magnitude of 1,000,000 LEDs then the price is only ~$5-6 per LED which is totally affordable....

....but there is no way I can fund 1mil LEDs and even if I could I don't know how feasible it would be to sell that many....unless I could pre-design the units to be modifiable for multiple industries simultaneously perhaps...

in any case, the actual numbers are for all intents and purposes out of our range :(


@Olimpia: Dave referred me to the same folks I believe...they do indeed have some good data :)
 
Hiya,

The emission wavelengths of LEDs depend on what the P-N junction itself is actually made of (the little bits you can see inside the LED case). As electrons recombine with vacancies across the junction they release photons with energies (wavelengths) proportional to the difference in fermi (or more correctly, valence) levels of the two materials, also known as the 'band gap'. If you want more energy, pick materials with bigger valence differences. Lower energy, smaller valence level differences. I have the math somewhere if you want to see it (I studied this in uni).

Currently the industry uses Gallium Nitride (known as a wide band gap material) in some form or another (be it layered with aluminum doped or indium doped GaN or both) to reach the UV range, but also works with aluminum nitride and also some organic materials. As you might expect, gallium and indium cost $$$, leading to the high cost (though 1000 bucks is highway robbery to the infinity degree), aluminum nitride is expensive to make, and organic materials degrade fairly quickly, rendering most of these options fairly cost-impractical. Add to that the fact that most commercially available UV-LED's barely squeak into the UV range (right around 390nm) and there is a pickle indeed! Most of these devices are so precise that they have very narrow peaks of emission (not good at all!) meaning you'll need a few to overlap your peaks and get the curve you're looking for. Another thing to be wary of is UV laser diodes. Be sure not to confuse a generic LE diode with a laser diode.

So, what you really want to look for are the cheapest, AlGaN, or AlGaInN LEDs you can find and start from there. But I wouldn't buy anything unless you they can prove the emission peaks to you. Finding a lens that can focus UV light is another story altogether (solar cell makers can tell you about THAT particular challenge). There are a few places who can custom-fab arrays of different emission peaks for you (http://www.s-et.com/products.html), so perhaps you could run your project past them to see what they think.

The actual 'brightness' of the light comes from the power you use to drive the circuit. More power in leads to a greater light intensity (with a diminishing return) as you saturate the junction's ability to recombine electrons and emit more photons.

You could also try looking into quantum-dot LED's, but they are still a new technology and could be even more expensive. These can be designed to give out essentially ANY wavelength you want. Do some googlin' and see what you can dig up.

-Chad
 
Chadbot said:
Hiya,

The emission wavelengths of LEDs depend on what the P-N junction itself is actually made of (the little bits you can see inside the LED case). As electrons recombine with vacancies across the junction they release photons with energies (wavelengths) proportional to the difference in fermi (or more correctly, valence) levels of the two materials, also known as the 'band gap'. If you want more energy, pick materials with bigger valence differences. Lower energy, smaller valence level differences. I have the math somewhere if you want to see it (I studied this in uni).

Currently the industry uses Gallium Nitride (known as a wide band gap material) in some form or another (be it layered with aluminum doped or indium doped GaN or both) to reach the UV range, but also works with aluminum nitride and also some organic materials. As you might expect, gallium and indium cost $$$, leading to the high cost (though 1000 bucks is highway robbery to the infinity degree), aluminum nitride is expensive to make, and organic materials degrade fairly quickly, rendering most of these options fairly cost-impractical. Add to that the fact that most commercially available UV-LED's barely squeak into the UV range (right around 390nm) and there is a pickle indeed! Most of these devices are so precise that they have very narrow peaks of emission (not good at all!) meaning you'll need a few to overlap your peaks and get the curve you're looking for. Another thing to be wary of is UV laser diodes. Be sure not to confuse a generic LE diode with a laser diode.

So, what you really want to look for are the cheapest, AlGaN, or AlGaInN LEDs you can find and start from there. But I wouldn't buy anything unless you they can prove the emission peaks to you. Finding a lens that can focus UV light is another story altogether (solar cell makers can tell you about THAT particular challenge). There are a few places who can custom-fab arrays of different emission peaks for you (http://www.s-et.com/products.html), so perhaps you could run your project past them to see what they think.

The actual 'brightness' of the light comes from the power you use to drive the circuit. More power in leads to a greater light intensity (with a diminishing return) as you saturate the junction's ability to recombine electrons and emit more photons.

You could also try looking into quantum-dot LED's, but they are still a new technology and could be even more expensive. These can be designed to give out essentially ANY wavelength you want. Do some googlin' and see what you can dig up.

-Chad
Click to expand...

S-et is where I was looking for my LEDs. I believe that the small spectrum gap is actually a GOOD thing because it allows us to get a tighter control on our beams. The wider the spread, the less control we would have in creating the relative wavelengths we need. Based on their spec sheets, their LEDs should suffice for our purposes and since they can provide a 5nm gap between available spreads, we can really fine tune our spectrum.

You bring up an interesting point on the lens. I had just assumed it would be easy to find a focusing lens, but perhaps I should not make such an assumption...this will be added on my research list..

As for the power output itself, yes I know we can control it via current. I'm doing various calculations which lead to various lifetimes, but overall even assuming maximum working power, I believe a single LED can put out roughly 100microW/cm^2 @ a range of 3cm from the light source. I did that very roughly in my head, but if thats right, I should be able to get by with only 1 LED (per necessary wavelength) to generate sufficient intensity; however, if it ends up being too little (esp if the dispersion angle needs to be wider) then I may be forced to add more LEDs but then price will be way higher :(

I'm familiar with the math, my BS was in astrophysics :). I had not heard of quantum-dot LEDs though I will have to look more into that...


@rangos: Reefkeepers use clear light as far as I know. LEDs are popular all around (and are getting to the viv hobby, I just built my first light unit myself) but I have not seen anyone with a UV LED unit...if you know of one in particular I'd be very interested in the link
 
Any luck finding a UV lens that does multiple wavelengths? Last time I checked these things were hella-expensive. Found 1 place that sells them for individual LED's. Look up Lumen Dynamics or Omnicure.
 
@Chadbot: thanks I will look that up; I have actually been trying to just finish my big build project so I can focus more on this design....and so my gf stops yelling at me :p


1 more week and my attention will change I promise :)
 
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