Bruising or fungal?

Boyntonjade

New Member
My panther chameleon, remy ,shed probably a week ago. We mist her way more frequently because if not she tends to get more stressed, plus it helps her shed easier. A few days before she started shedding she was itching her eye on one of her sticks and continued after her shed. Now when she’s dark she gets white spots on her forehead and her eye seems to be bruised maybe burnt and I’m not sure if the white spots are left over shed or fungal? It seemed to be getting better than it got even worse, please help she looks up with her other eye that’s perfectly fine but not her hurt one. The second photo is from Tuesday and the first and third are from Wednesday, the rest are from today.
 

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Serbianchameleon

Chameleon Enthusiast
Spraying water on chameleons does not help them shed. They are dry shedders. Can you fill this form uo and post it back here? I know nothing about fungal but a lot of other member could probably tell if it is by the picture. Anyways please fill this form!

Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:
  1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
  2. Photos can be very helpful.
 

Boyntonjade

New Member
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care? ~panther , female, about a year, been in our care for about 3-4 months
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon? ~about once a week( we always wash our hands before )
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders? ~ gut loaded crickets, silk worms, super worms, occasionally kiwi ( only one she likes in very small amounts).she eats about 8 crickets every other day ( some times back to back in a smaller portion if we notice her hunting down food) she’ll get a snack of a super worm every two days and a full work once a week typically. We typically feed her around 1 silk worm a week
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?~ Repti calcium w/o D3, reptivite with d3 both by zoo med
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking? ~ Filter water spring water, if not then tap water that’s been filtered twice then a drop of reptisafe. Most her about three times a day for about a minute( we had a machine but it recently broke), she drinks when we spray her and out of her little dripper.
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites? ~Her pee is white, her poop is solid like a very light under tone of blue and grey( don’t really know how to describe it) no parasite testing done with us( not sure about what the pet store did for her)
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you. ~ just what’s stated above.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions? ~ zoo med starting kit, screen, 16 X 30 X16
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule? ~Zoo med, T5 and a basking light of 60 watts just store brand, 12 hours on 12 hours off
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps? Basking is about 82 floor is about 72, lowest over night temp is about 66, our thermostat has a stick on the other end we use to measure about twice a day
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity? ~About 72, we mist her several times a day to maintain, and we have a humidifier measure hanging up in her cage as well as her thermostat.
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind? Yes, and forgot the name of her plant but she also goes on her hibiscus plant when we she gets handled and we’re looking into new ones for her as well
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?near a window, not really near any fans, not near a trafficked area, she’s propped up on a stand so she’s about four feet off.
  • Location - Where are you geographically located? Georgia, us

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about. As stated above.
 

Serbianchameleon

Chameleon Enthusiast
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care? ~panther , female, about a year, been in our care for about 3-4 months
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon? ~about once a week( we always wash our hands before ) You should not handle your chameleon if she does not come to your hand willingly. Except if you are getting her out to wash the enclosure.
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders? ~ gut loaded crickets, silk worms, super worms, occasionally kiwi ( only one she likes in very small amounts).she eats about 8 crickets every other day ( some times back to back in a smaller portion if we notice her hunting down food) she’ll get a snack of a super worm every two days and a full work once a week typically. We typically feed her around 1 silk worm a week. Dont feed her kiwi at all. They dont eat fruits and especially no citrus fruits. Just bugs!
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?~ Repti calcium w/o D3, reptivite with d3 both by zoo med. What is the schedule?
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking? ~ Filter water spring water, if not then tap water that’s been filtered twice then a drop of reptisafe. Most her about three times a day for about a minute( we had a machine but it recently broke), she drinks when we spray her and out of her little dripper.
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites? ~Her pee is white, her poop is solid like a very light under tone of blue and grey( don’t really know how to describe it) no parasite testing done with us( not sure about what the pet store did for her). You should test her for parasites..
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you. ~ just what’s stated above.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions? ~ zoo med starting kit, screen, 16 X 30 X16. You need a bigger enclosure. At least 30x20x30
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule? ~Zoo med, T5 and a basking light of 60 watts just store brand, 12 hours on 12 hours off
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps? Basking is about 82 floor is about 72, lowest over night temp is about 66, our thermostat has a stick on the other end we use to measure about twice a day
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity? ~About 72, we mist her several times a day to maintain, and we have a humidifier measure hanging up in her cage as well as her thermostat.
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind? Yes, and forgot the name of her plant but she also goes on her hibiscus plant when we she gets handled and we’re looking into new ones for her as well
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?near a window, not really near any fans, not near a trafficked area, she’s propped up on a stand so she’s about four feet off.
  • Location - Where are you geographically located? Georgia, us
 

Beman

Chameleon Enthusiast
Looks like a bruise on the eye turret to me. Some stuff is off in your husbandry. they do not shed easier when misted more. Increasing humidity is actually not beneficial. They are dry shedders. So we keep humidity stable at about 50% not higher with more mistings. I am in the process of moving and can not go through your help form thoroughly though. Hopefully one of the other tagged members will be able to.
 

Boyntonjade

New Member
Humidity stays about the same it probably just once or twice more with less misting time then on her scheduled misting, she always seemed to have a longer shred period if not missed a extra time or two. Thank you for the information though, and best of luck on the move:)
 

Boyntonjade

New Member
Looks like a bruise on the eye turret to me. Some stuff is off in your husbandry. they do not shed easier when misted more. Increasing humidity is actually not beneficial. They are dry shedders. So we keep humidity stable at about 50% not higher with more mistings. I am in the process of moving and can not go through your help form thoroughly though. Hopefully one of the other tagged members will be able to.

Humidity stays about the same it probably just once or twice more with less misting time then on her scheduled misting, she always seemed to have a longer shred period if not missed a extra time or two. Thank you for the information though, and best of luck on the move:)
 

Boyntonjade

New Member
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care? ~panther , female, about a year, been in our care for about 3-4 months
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon? ~about once a week( we always wash our hands before ) You should not handle your chameleon if she does not come to your hand willingly. Except if you are getting her out to wash the enclosure.
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders? ~ gut loaded crickets, silk worms, super worms, occasionally kiwi ( only one she likes in very small amounts).she eats about 8 crickets every other day ( some times back to back in a smaller portion if we notice her hunting down food) she’ll get a snack of a super worm every two days and a full work once a week typically. We typically feed her around 1 silk worm a week. Dont feed her kiwi at all. They dont eat fruits and especially no citrus fruits. Just bugs!
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?~ Repti calcium w/o D3, reptivite with d3 both by zoo med. What is the schedule?
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking? ~ Filter water spring water, if not then tap water that’s been filtered twice then a drop of reptisafe. Most her about three times a day for about a minute( we had a machine but it recently broke), she drinks when we spray her and out of her little dripper.
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites? ~Her pee is white, her poop is solid like a very light under tone of blue and grey( don’t really know how to describe it) no parasite testing done with us( not sure about what the pet store did for her). You should test her for parasites..
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you. ~ just what’s stated above.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions? ~ zoo med starting kit, screen, 16 X 30 X16. You need a bigger enclosure. At least 30x20x30
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule? ~Zoo med, T5 and a basking light of 60 watts just store brand, 12 hours on 12 hours off
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps? Basking is about 82 floor is about 72, lowest over night temp is about 66, our thermostat has a stick on the other end we use to measure about twice a day
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity? ~About 72, we mist her several times a day to maintain, and we have a humidifier measure hanging up in her cage as well as her thermostat.
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind? Yes, and forgot the name of her plant but she also goes on her hibiscus plant when we she gets handled and we’re looking into new ones for her as well
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?near a window, not really near any fans, not near a trafficked area, she’s propped up on a stand so she’s about four feet off.
  • Location - Where are you geographically located? Georgia, us
She run to us the second we open the cage she loves being on our heads, even when she wants to we still will Sadley not let her out just because I’ve found it’s not good for them? And noted on the kiwi, we've only given it to her about twice in the tiniest amount, I wouldn’t have given it to her but head on here when I first got her that they like it, thank you for letting me know, and we’ve been looking into a new cage ( we really want to build her one) and the answer in the feeding schedule is somewhere on there already, and we have an appointment Monday for parasite testing and hopefully they’ll look at her eye and white spots, thank you for the warnings and everything :)
 

PoseidonTheChameleon

Chameleon Enthusiast
Humidity stays about the same it probably just once or twice more with less misting time then on her scheduled misting, she always seemed to have a longer shred period if not missed a extra time or two. Thank you for the information though, and best of luck on the move:)
They are dry shedders, misting more and raising humidity makes it harder for them, we already told you this so please do not continue to mist more when she sheds. I do not consider myself in any way a professional but you can ask any experienced keeper on here and they will tell you the same thing.
 

kinyonga

Chameleon Queen
Are you aware that female Panther chameleons will lay eggs even without having been mated once they are sexually mature?
It's important to control their diet and temperatures once they are approaching maturity and also to provide an egglaying container in her cage at all times.

Controlling the diet will help keep the clutch size small or even stop production altogether in some chameleons. They should be fed every two or three days about 4 or 5 crickets or equal calorie amount in other insects. The basking temperature should be kept at 80F.

The egg bin should be about 8" deep and about 10" x 10". Washed playsand is the most often recommended substrate...just moist enough to hold a tunnel.
 

Boyntonjade

New Member
Are you aware that female Panther chameleons will lay eggs even without having been mated once they are sexually mature?
It's important to control their diet and temperatures once they are approaching maturity and also to provide an egglaying container in her cage at all times.

Controlling the diet will help keep the clutch size small or even stop production altogether in some chameleons. They should be fed every two or three days about 4 or 5 crickets or equal calorie amount in other insects. The basking temperature should be kept at 80F.

The egg bin should be about 8" deep and about 10" x 10". Washed playsand is the most often recommended substrate...just moist enough to hold a tunnel.
Yes, I’m aware, thank you though! Right now I’m more concerned about her eye, her diet is well maintained and controlled other than my fault on the kiwi which I shouldve looked into more and take full blame. I know about her temperature and humid and stay on top of that’s as well I also know about heart lay been and her her but I’d supposed to go into the mix of sand and soil and that it’s TheBest west foot it not to collapse. I’ve been very worried about jet eye and everyone is answering everything but what should really be the main focus. I’m sorry if this came off rude in any way
 

Boyntonjade

New Member
They are dry shedders, misting more and raising humidity makes it harder for them, we already told you this so please do not continue to mist more when she sheds. I do not consider myself in any way a professional but you can ask any experienced keeper on here and they will tell you the same thing.
Yeah I got that I wasn’t going to after you stated it wasn’t going to be good for her I thought I was helping her because she seemed to have easy but knowing it makes it more difficult I definitely wouldn’t put any strain and stress on her.. I love her dearly and want what’s best I’m taking everything in as you guys say. Why is everyone attacking me, I’m not an expert either but definitely look up and listen to those who do have more experience. Can someone please help me with her eye and maybe determine if they know or highly suggest it’s something?
 

PoseidonTheChameleon

Chameleon Enthusiast
Yeah I got that I wasn’t going to after you stated it wasn’t going to be good for her I thought I was helping her because she seemed to have easy but knowing it makes it more difficult I definitely wouldn’t put any strain and stress on her.. I love her dearly and want what’s best I’m taking everything in as you guys say. Why is everyone attacking me, I’m not an expert either but definitely look up and listen to those who do have more experience. Can someone please help me with her eye and maybe determine if they know or highly suggest it’s something?
I am not attacking you, from what I read it seemed as if you still thought misting her more was a good idea. All we want is to make sure you understand these things. I'm very happy that you are listening to all of us and all the great information you have been given.
 

kinyonga

Chameleon Queen
You said..."I’ve been very worried about jet eye and everyone is answering everything but what should really be the main focus" and "Can someone please help me with her eye and maybe determine if they know or highly suggest it’s something?"....
@Beman said..."Looks like a bruise on the eye turret to me"...I'm not a vet...so imho, I tend to agree with her.

As for the diet, if a female chameleon is fed too much once she's sexually mature she will likely produce a large clutch of eggs instead of the size of clutch she would produce in the wild and it leads to reproductive issues (follicular stasis, eggbinding, MBD, prolapsing) and death as a rule. I always try to mention it so people are aware of it and don't end up with the problems. Just trying to cover the important things.
 
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