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Yeah I was wondering if Exo Terra acounted for the screen and for the reflectors. Because without a reflector you also get a way lower value it seems, from what I saw from Chameleon Academy.

Yes as I said it isn't ideal but not every country has the products US and Europe do so, sadly I cannot provide the modern ideal equipment and have to rely on older methods. Thanks for your input!

Also, is there a rule of thumb for what would be a UVI 3, 4, 5, 6 or 7? since those are recommended for chameleon basking spot values afaik. Or does UVI just increase by approx 40 μW/cm^2 every stage? Meaning UVI 3 is approx 120 μW/cm^2 of UVB? and 7 is approx 280 μW/cm^2 of UVB?

Yeah I know CFL is the worst option but chameleons do bask for hours under it everyday and Chameleon Academy shows results that are relatively close to T5 lamps when it comes to Exo Terra CFL bulbs, so it should suffice with D3 addition from suppliments. At least it did so far for people...

Hi, Do the UVB charts in the Exo Terra products have information that can let us determine roughly where the area of UVI 2.9-7.4 range on their products would be? They don't seem to have any mention of UVI or the Ferguson Zone on their compact flourescent products. Just these charts below...

I observed the same momentary huge eye moment on my young chameleon yesterday while she still had some old dead skin on her eyelid. I think, I hope, it is just some thing they can casually do and not a health issue.

I have thought the temperature difference and the eggs not being in a clump all touching eachother could not be the reason because I see people put eggs in neat lines, apart from eachother, all the time for chameleons and all other reptiles. And they pretty much always are reported to hatch...

Hello, I have bred panther chameleons before, around 10 years ago, and for some reason both times I had eggs from my female, the babies hatched desynchronized. By that I mean, some eggs of a batch hatched after 7 months, while some eggs of the same batch in the same tiny box took 9 months, or...

Alright. Thanks a lot! Yes that is the exo terra bulb I have. I have seen the pages in the academy site and read much of it, though I still have a little more left to read. I have kept several chameleons before and bred panthers, but it has been about 10 years since, so I need some refreshment...

Thanks for all the advices. I have a calcium powder without d3 to feed daily, but it has no information about whether it has phosphorus or not. The brand is a local brand named Petcalvit. I assume since there is no mention of phosphorus there is none in it. For the multivitamin, Repashy...

Sorry to the thread owner if this is rude to ask on another persons thread: If Repashy Calcium Plus is the only available multivitamin product for reptiles in the country, should we still refrain from using it? Or would a use method of only maybe once a month to avoid overdose do more good than...

I have read about keeping females colder temps, or at least same ambient temps but with no basking light, or a low temp basking spot; to not encourage egg production and extend the females lifespan. Alongside the advice to feed them not as much as a male (proportionally), unless you want to...

Hi, I have a juvenile female Panther Chameleon, hatching date was listed as 05/2025, so about 3-4 months old. She is about 2 and a half inches, or 3 inches long (excluding tail). I have read about people talking about keeping females in lower temps than males, often even without a basking...

It seems like the nights are really warm in the area at Madagascar summer even under the forest canopy. I suppose temperatures would drop a few degrees during the night, but still I may need to add my B. superciliaris extra heating at night for summer (if this was not an exceptionally hot...

Looks like a burn. Could the tail have touched to the light source or the ceramic/metal lamp? If so, then it needs to be placed it further away before other babies burn themselves too. Hopefully the vet can remove it safely and it won't get infected afterwards. Maybe it is better to not remove...

If they mated, the female is almost certainly going to lay eggs. You should give her her own seperate enclosure with a proper "laying bin" inside or just fill the bottom with proper type and amound of substrate.

Yep, it seems like I was looking at C. dilepis males mostly which were falsely labeled as C. senegalensis. And I suppose the "senegalensis owner" on these forum also owned another species with tarsal spurs.

Really? I thought the male specimens I saw in search of male C. senegaliensis were actually male C. senagaliensis. And a senegaliensis owner mentioned his/her males having tarsal spurs. They must have been different species that look like senegaliensis then. Could you show us the sources that...

Look like a perfect female. Chamaeleo senegaliensis males have fat hemipenal bulges and they also have tarsal spurs as far as I know.

This is a female. Males start growing all three horns at the size of an inch or two (they may even be born with all three) and have much more color on their skin. Females have mostly shades of green and brown and grow a single horn or none (or one big horn with two underdeveloped horns...