The sentence: "I am missing the investigation concerning the dependence of the size of the insect population with respects to the presence of chameleons." was meant as a missing proof that chams are a threat (this would be a proof rather than study of contents of a chameleon...
First of all I would like to say that I am against the releasing of chams.
Anyway, I have just read the articles listed above and I do not like the logic structure of their conclusion: there have been found Hawaii insects in a chameleon stomach and thus chameleons are a threat.
In fact, the...
I had a few generations of verrucosus. I had best results with
2 months constant 23-26 degrees Celsius
2 months constant 10-18 degrees
increase by 1 or 2 degrees per week to the final temperature
the rest of the incubation at 24-26 degrees
the jump between the first and the second period...
I use winter-temperatures between 15 and 18 degrees. A proof that this method works is the fact that my male is finishing his fifth winter in my conditions right now. Most people claiming that the winter cooling poeriod is not necessary have only a few months experience.
Has anyone of you tried incubation of Kinyongia-eggs with constant temperatures? Dirt averages the day/night temperatures. If I am right, the temperature oscilation in the depth of 20cm is under 1 degree Celsius.
I had pairs together without problems. I would not risk to house two males together. I also had two females together, but they were fighting because of their favourite basking branch, so I separated them.
I know a person who has his third CB-generation.
I have bad exerience with keeping juveniles together (at total length 20cm there started real problems), but there is no problem when keeping a pair in a cage of the size 1.2*1.2*2 metres.
The enclosure is sufficiently large. It is enough to move the heating bulb to a corner so that there is some volume of the enclosure with low temperature.
I keep melleri in 80*40*60cm untill they are 30cm long.
I have heard that WC melleri sometimes drink too much and it causes their death (the eplanation is, that in the wild nature, they do not have opportunity to drink very often, so they tend to drink a lot when the opportunity comes). Actually, my CB melleri drink much less than pardalis, etc.
If you are starting with a new species, it is always best to have as big enclosure as possible and prepare different conditions in different corners.
Concerning melleri, they do not drink much. And they do not require a misting system. I offer them twice a week water from a syringe, a shy...
In case it seems to you that it might be the winter rest, you can test it by decreasing the temperature of the enclosure (in case of a large enclosure it can be done probably only by decreasing entire room's temperature), while keeping the basking branch as hot as in summer. He will choose what...
It seems to me that there might be three reasons for not eating.
1) The cham is having his winter rest. In such a case he almost would not be interested in eating and basking. (If not, then warming him up, by my opinion, would be good for nothing. Verrucosus do not care about low temperatures...
I am also time after time recording weight and length my chams.
But I am checking only young ones, older animals tend to overeating and getting fat (especially in winter).
I have a lot of records with the conclusion that there are different optimal BMIs for different species.
Standard locust is Locusta migratoria, this locust is almost strict vegetarian. The second often used species is Schistocerca gregaria, they eat each other more often, they can even bite the chameleon. It seems to me that their meat-appetite increases with dehydration.