Is UVB 10 harmful?

Q

QforQ

New Member
Over on the /r/chameleons sub-reddit, I've read several posts and comments from folks that are *very* anti-UVB 10 bulbs. People claim that the UVB 10 is harmful for chameleons, and that only a UVB 5 should be used.

Is this accurate or is this just theory?

Asking because I've got a compact UVB 10 in my enclosure now, and the bulb was sold to me by a woman who has bred many chameleons in her lifetime.

Thanks,
Sam
 
QforQ said:
Over on the /r/chameleons sub-reddit, I've read several posts and comments from folks that are *very* anti-UVB 10 bulbs. People claim that the UVB 10 is harmful for chameleons, and that only a UVB 5 should be used.

Is this accurate or is this just theory?

Asking because I've got a compact UVB 10 in my enclosure now, and the bulb was sold to me by a woman who has bred many chameleons in her lifetime.

Thanks,
Sam
Click to expand...

I know that many strongly recommended not using copact UVB anything. Linear tubes are the way to go. I to have heard UVB 10.0 is too strong for a chameleon.
 
Juliaf3 said:
I know that many strongly recommended not using copact UVB anything. Linear tubes are the way to go. I to have heard UVB 10.0 is too strong for a chameleon.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I've seen people claim both of those things..but the "compact bulbs are bad!" claim goes counter to the FAQ on this forum:

Q: Can I use Compact UVB bulbs or will it blind my chameleon?
A: At one time there was a manufacturing problem with the ReptiSun CFL UVB bulbs so that they emitted unsafe levels of UVB and even UVC rays, which corresponded to health problems like eye problems and burns in reptiles. This manufacturing issue was identified and corrected by the manufacturer several years ago and thus we have not seen problems with it since then. The ReptiGlo CFL UVB bulbs were never associated with these harmful effects. The linear ReptiGlo or ReptiSun bulbs have never had any health problems associated with them either.
Click to expand...

The FAQ also goes on to say that either UVB 10 or 5's are OK, but it seems that UVB 10 has a lot of haters. Just trying to make sense of it all :D
 
10.0 UVB lights are fine. However compacts of ANY kind caused eye issues in a lot of reptiles. I personally only use the tube fluorescents. Supposedly they have fixed the issue now, but I won't chance it myself when tubes are just fine.

The reality is ; through screen 5.0's are almost not giving enough UVB.

There are dozens of threads on this subject where you can find a lot of great info, but I'll add this. Reptiles need a minimum of 13 microwatts (UV measurement) to synthesize d3. Out in the sun it can get to 300 microwatts or so and there are people who raise theirs outside 24/7.

The 10.0 tubes that I have measure around 20-30 microwatts from around 6" from the chameleon. 5.0's are half that. That's with a fresh bulb.
 
I was told the same thing and bought 5.0 compact bulbs and now my baby Cham has one eye closed and he started closing the other eye and I asked for help and thy told me to get rid of it and I did and now his eye is still closed but his getting better
 
I used 5.0 Compacts without any issues. Many people I spoke with have told me if I want to use 10.0, i should use a tube light. I've stuck with 5.0 compacts and haven't had any issues. I use bulbs by exoterra.
 
10.0's are fine for helioliphic species. Compacts are fine too for small enclosures. Many successful and respected keepers use both.
 
Seiryu said:
10.0 UVB lights are fine....

....The reality is ; through screen 5.0's are almost not giving enough UVB.

There are dozens of threads on this subject where you can find a lot of great info, but I'll add this. Reptiles need a minimum of 13 microwatts (UV measurement) to synthesize d3. Out in the sun it can get to 300 microwatts or so and there are people who raise theirs outside 24/7.

The 10.0 tubes that I have measure around 20-30 microwatts from around 6" from the chameleon. 5.0's are half that. That's with a fresh bulb.
Click to expand...

Exactly. The people who are adamantly against the 10.0 bulbs haven't done the comparisons, I bet, and are just repeating what they've heard somewhere. Because when you look at Solarmeter comparisons between the two types of bulbs (and between the different brands, Reptiglo and Reptisun) with and without screen the difference is obvious, the 5.0s (especially from Reptiglo) are just not really cutting it. Especially not in the large cages, where you have very little UVB penetrating downwards.

The fact is that the strongest of these two brands/four bulbs, the Reptisun 10.0, is still putting out a very moderate level of UVB and is totally safe. It produces less than the Arcadia 6% bulbs, and everyone is going nuts over those bulbs, so I think it's clear that people just aren't really looking at the numbers when they compare bulbs and decide which are dangerous and which are not.

I've been using the Reptisun 10.0 linear bulbs for a couple years now ever since I looked at the numbers and I'm sorry that I didn't right from the beginning. I'd upgrade to the Arcadia bulbs except that my gang gets daily natural sunshine, so it's not an upgrade I really need to make.
 
For my panthers, I have used 10.0 UVB for a couple years with no issue.

I don't understand the argument against UVB 10. If you have a solarmeter you will see that even UVB 10 is significantly less than direct sunlight, even sunlight springtime in the midwest USA (which I assume is significantly less than in Maddy or Africa).

As long as you give your chameleon a well planted cage so they can move in and out of the UVB there should be no problem. Even with a sparse cage, UVB decreases quickly with distance.

I also recommend that if using a 10.0 that you seaparate it from the basking spot so the cham can warm up without being exposed to UVB.

I also advocate reducing D3 supplementation when switching from 5.0 to 10.0 UVB. I think it is preferable to give the chameleon control of how much D3 they produce instead of forcing D3 by supplementation.
 
Ill post my notes:

A panther needs 30-35 µW/cm² peak when the bulb is fresh, and should be changed at 15-20 µW/cm². Mind you, you can go higher as others have stated daylight is 300 µW/cm²

Now on to the scarry numbers:

Ohio august 23 2013 partly cloudy with sun peaking out behind cloud 11am: 3.0 UVI
Full sun 2pm 5.8 UVI
Full sun 2pm in the shade 1.5 UVI (measured under a few oak trees and bird garden shrubs)

42" LYR hood+ reflector no screen with 6% and 6500k 6 months old: 1.8 UVI @ 12" .7 UVI @ 24"

42" LYR hood+ refector no screen with 12% and 6500k 1 month old: 3.5 UVI at 12" 2.8 UVI @ 15" (beardy rock level)

With a 40 to 1 conversion for UVB µW/cm² to UVI, that would make the cham cage 72 UVB µW/cm²at basking and 28 UVB µW/cm²mid tank.

For the beardy that would be 112 UVB µW/cm² at basking rock.


ZooMed Reptisun 10.0 tube, at 12 inches distance no screen (assume no reflector):
6.2 reading: 24 µW/cm².
6.5 reading: UV Index 0.7"
 
nightanole said:
Ill post my notes:

A panther needs 30-35 µW/cm² peak when the bulb is fresh, and should be changed at 15-20 µW/cm². Mind you, you can go higher as others have stated daylight is 300 µW/cm²

Now on to the scarry numbers:

Ohio august 23 2013 partly cloudy with sun peaking out behind cloud 11am: 3.0 UVI
Full sun 2pm 5.8 UVI
Full sun 2pm in the shade 1.5 UVI (measured under a few oak trees and bird garden shrubs)

42" LYR hood+ reflector no screen with 6% and 6500k 6 months old: 1.8 UVI @ 12" .7 UVI @ 24"

42" LYR hood+ refector no screen with 12% and 6500k 1 month old: 3.5 UVI at 12" 2.8 UVI @ 15" (beardy rock level)

With a 40 to 1 conversion for UVB µW/cm² to UVI, that would make the cham cage 72 UVB µW/cm²at basking and 28 UVB µW/cm²mid tank.

For the beardy that would be 112 UVB µW/cm² at basking rock.


ZooMed Reptisun 10.0 tube, at 12 inches distance no screen (assume no reflector):
6.2 reading: 24 µW/cm².
6.5 reading: UV Index 0.7"
Click to expand...

Night,
this bears repeating.
Excellent work.

Personally , I have used Zoo Med Linear and compact, Arcadia T8 and HO t5 over the years and talked about UV on MANY forums---- from Monitor Lizards to Dart Frogs!

And it does my heart good to see someone pick up the torch and start sharing UV and light information because IT IS SO CRITICAL.

Thank you and anyone else that helps educate the Forum on this subject.

Thank you x 100.:D

Sincerely,
Todd

ps. here is a useful link to understand why UV is important and what causes MBD.
http://www.arcadia-reptile.com/the-d3-cycle/
 
https:www.reddit.com/u/flip69 is a link to the user who runs https:www.reddit.com/r/chameleons and he is very adamantly against 10.0 bulbs for no apparent reason.

He also encourages you to use a shot glass to let chameleons drink, which I can think of some benefits, but mostly it is bad because bacteria will obviously build up if you don't change it like every day.

He never gave any evidence as to why 10.0's are bad, and also HATES when I refer people to https:www.chameleonforums.com because he says it's "stealing the subreddit's attention/community".

-_-

10.0 is not harmful by the way. Just thought I'd give some insight on the user themselves.
 
I use 10.0 linear tubes and have tested with solar meter and have been happy with the results. I have never had any MBD or eye issues or any other light related issues. Some good information has been posted here and I thank everyone for taking the time.
 
I have been using 10.0 T8 Arcadia and 10.0 T5 Zoomed for over 6months now and I have raised my chameleons since they were babies. No eye problems or MBD or any other issues apart from the sad state they were in the pet shop but that is irrelevant to UVB

I've noticed my chameleons activity has increased when using 10.0 as opposed to 5% or 6% UVB tubes
 
I use the 10.0 on adult female panthers and 5.0 on my adult males. The males are also next to french doors that I open every chance I get for natural UV. 0-3 month old hatchlings get 5.0, no matter the sex. All bulbs are linear T5 HO.
 
nightanole said:
Ill post my notes:

A panther needs 30-35 µW/cm² peak when the bulb is fresh, and should be changed at 15-20 µW/cm². Mind you, you can go higher as others have stated daylight is 300 µW/cm²

Now on to the scarry numbers:

Ohio august 23 2013 partly cloudy with sun peaking out behind cloud 11am: 3.0 UVI
Full sun 2pm 5.8 UVI
Full sun 2pm in the shade 1.5 UVI (measured under a few oak trees and bird garden shrubs)

42" LYR hood+ reflector no screen with 6% and 6500k 6 months old: 1.8 UVI @ 12" .7 UVI @ 24"

42" LYR hood+ refector no screen with 12% and 6500k 1 month old: 3.5 UVI at 12" 2.8 UVI @ 15" (beardy rock level)

With a 40 to 1 conversion for UVB µW/cm² to UVI, that would make the cham cage 72 UVB µW/cm²at basking and 28 UVB µW/cm²mid tank.

For the beardy that would be 112 UVB µW/cm² at basking rock.


ZooMed Reptisun 10.0 tube, at 12 inches distance no screen (assume no reflector):
6.2 reading: 24 µW/cm².
6.5 reading: UV Index 0.7"
Click to expand...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

G
Proper placement of basking lamp and UVB/daylight tubes
Replies
2
Views
300
Beman
Beman
Chameleon-lover
Chameleon climbing on the screen
2
Replies
27
Views
1K
Beman
Beman
F
US Rehoming my 2 year old Male Ambilobe
Replies
0
Views
330
FUNDESTRUSTION
F
N
Help a newbie setting up a 18'' enclosure for a Panther Chameleon
Replies
2
Views
641
Beman
Beman
ChamRandal
I think my Cham is sick
Replies
5
Views
142
Beman
Beman
Back
Top Bottom