New owner of chameleon

Loadout said:

Hi Francis

They puff up when they are frightened/angry and sometimes when they bask to absorb more heat. Seeing as he is new it will take time for him to get used to you. You should post a picture of him so that someone can estimate his age, then we can make sure your basking temperature is correct, this is very important for his health. Which supplements did they give you at the store to dust his food with?

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teejayteej said:

Print of the care sheet in the care resource section, your lighting and care are there. as for if he will hiss at you that is just part of being a cham owner. Like I posted on another thread Chams have personalities and they will let you know if they are in the mood to be handled. you need to feed him even if he hisses at you just put the food in the cage. (were you trying to hand feed?)
He may just need time to adjust if you just got him. He will hiss because he is out of his element.

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Sir Francis 222 said:

Okay! how do you post a picture up?
As for supplements I just bought crickets at the moment and I use the Flukers calcium with vitamin D3 phosphorus free also feed the crickets the Flukers orange cubes
As well I saw the thing about gut loading ?
So I put a piece of fresh carrot for the crickets is that okay?

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Sir Francis 222 said:

Hello guys , I just bought my chameleon just yesterday and wanted to know if I need things to improve on I really want my little guy to live I am not sure how old he is, I had a question about the lighting I have the 5.0 UVB light watt the one for his vitamin D and also the basking one is it important to have both on?
I am reading on his thermometer that it's at a comfortable temperature. So I should. Turn the other on when he begins to eat ?

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Loadout said:

To post a picture you hit 'post reply' and then underneath the text box there is a 'Manage Attachments' box. From here you can select a picture to upload

I'm afraid the store has given you the wrong information regarding supplementation. He needs a calcium powder without d3 for every feeding along with a calcium with d3 (like you already have) to be used only once every two weeks and a multivitamin powder to be used once every two weeks. I'm not familiar with the Flukers brand but this is a very common mistake that stores make. Overdosing on vitamin D3 can lead to metabolic bone disease and the early death of your cham. It's something that you should try to sort as soon as possible. Since they got this wrong it's likely they told you other things that are incorrect. I would suggest filling out this form https://www.chameleonforums.com/how-ask-help-66/ and posting another picture of your setup so we can make suggestions to ensure your cham gets the best care he can.

Carrots are a great start for your feeders but variety is best, the nutrients you give your feeders will be passed on to your chameleon, meaning more variety will lead to a healthier and happier cham. Here's some information on gutloading https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/sandrachameleon/75-feeder-nutrition-gutloading.html and a care sheet https://www.chameleonforums.com/care/caresheets/veiled/

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Djturna4thakidz said:

Excess D3 does not cause metabolic bone disease but it is harmful to your chameleon. As previously stated, you need calcium without D3. Most pet stores don't have it on hand but it can be ordered. If it needs to be delivered we have some other methods to help you get calcium in a pinch.

The orange cubes from flukers are not a good gutload. I would also add much more than just carrots to your gutload. As experienced keepers will tell you, gutload is extremely important. Sandrachameleon has some amazing blogs on recipes if you search for it.

You definitely need both the UVB and the basking light on during the day, total darkness at night. I would aim for 85 degrees F under your basking light. 21 degrees C is a good temp at the bottom of the cage but they need a temperature gradient.


Good luck! Let us know of any more questions you have, pictures always help

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1. You need more sticks and foliage at the top. Chameleons are tree dwellers and will feel more safe and secure if they have places to hide. You need both vertical and horizontal "highways" so they can move up and down the cage.
   
2. Live plants will help hold in the humidity better than fake ones. Make sure you choose plants from the safe plant list and cover the soil with rocks so they don't accidentally ingest any of it.
   
3. You will probably want to remove the substrate at the bottom. It can hold bacteria and uneaten crickets. It's better to have nothing at the bottom of the cage.

BKFritz said:

I don't have a chameleon yet (it's in the works) but heres what I know and some advice I have gotten.

1. You need more sticks and foliage at the top. Chameleons are tree dwellers and will feel more safe and secure if they have places to hide. You need both vertical and horizontal "highways" so they can move up and down the cage.
   
2. Live plants will help hold in the humidity better than fake ones. Make sure you choose plants from the safe plant list and cover the soil with rocks so they don't accidentally ingest any of it.
   
3. You will probably want to remove the substrate at the bottom. It can hold bacteria and uneaten crickets. It's better to have nothing at the bottom of the cage.

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