Originally Posted by Fate X
...and it produces massive amounts of u.v.b.
Have you used a measuring device, or is this the conclusion you made, because of your chams moving to the light?
Nowadays nearly all the metal halids have a safety glass, with UV-Stop, so UVB output should be nominal.
I would advise people against removing the safety glas though, because of possible radiation damages, due to the high UVC output.
BUT, metal halids have a high light output, which is the reason why, in Germany, we consider them a must for heliophile reptiles like chameleons, beardies, etc.
Artificial light can't be bright enough for a chameleon.
Here a comparison of the light output of the powersun and a metal halid from Osram (30cm distance). It is visable that the metal halid has a much higher light output, with a lower wattage.
ZooMed Powersun 100W..............................6000 Lux (6 lm/m²)
Osram Powerball HCI 70W..........................15000 Lux (15 lm/m²)
Now guess how high the light intensity of the sun is. In summer it can go up to about 100.000 Lux, if its cloudy 20.000 Lux, in the shades 10.000 Lux.
This is the reason why I consider light setups consisting only of a UV-bulb and a spot as insufficient. Its like keeping these animals in the dark. Heat and UV are only two types of radiation, but why doesn't anybody think about the visuable light?
When using metal halids, make sure you use a bulb with a color temperature between 5000 und 6500 Kelvin. The bulbs used for sea-water aquariums often produce a light with a color temprature above 10000 Kelvin, which is too blue for reptiles.
With kind regards,